Honda CX 500 Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Ghetto, shade tree, call it what you want, just wouldn't look good. It just looks cleaner.

Besides, this way, I don't have to remove the hose ends, to remove the caps, while I do the measuring and such for the fork calculations.
Deep 1-1/16" socket fits right over, even the air valve.

I'll post a pic, next time I'm working on the bike.

EJ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
As promised, pics of caps change.
BTW, I was using a 1-1/16" deep well socket. 1-1/8, was too loose.
Fork Cap-w- plug.jpg

I think this looks cleaner, with the tubes rotated, as such...
Fork Caps-new look.jpg

Thanks, KLCruiser.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Dirtrack650, I do pay attention to pressure. And, straight air compressor pushes too much air, too fast.

However, I found a better, more accurate pump...

ALPHA MOTO Motorcycle Air Shock Pump with Gauge. Pumping is more precise, and it will not lose air upon install and removal.
I like the gauge, and the hose is a real bonus. $24.36 through Amazon.
Air pump.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Here's my setup mods. Both my GL's (500 adventure and 1100 bagger) have PSI gauges. Great addition for those of us who load up the bikes with gear and take off on adventures.
500 psi.jpg
GL500 Adventure
1100 psi.jpg
GL1100 Bagger
pump.png
Bell pump.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,132 Posts
I note that you are still running the crossover hoses so that if something causes one leg to loose air both legs will and the suspension will collapse....

BTW (I mentioned this earlier in the thread): I calculated preload spacers so that I no longer need to add air pressure. Now I don't need to worry about it when I load up the bike (or sidecar). Now if I could only do the same for the rear shock.....
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top