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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone have the fork cap, with air valve, they'd be willing to part with?

Update: May be taken care of.
Thanks, for the replies.

EJ
 

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What diameter fork tube? Think I have a factory set from my '81 GL500I and an after market set off a '80 CX500D
 

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These are yours for the cost of shipping, let me know your address. Off an '81 GL500I, 35mm fork tubes.
If OP can't use these fork caps, I sure can, and would be happy to pay costs for shipping to Ottawa K1J7X5
Cheers,
JP
 

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Ok thank you. Glad to hear you were able to help him out. Cheers,
JP
 

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Discussion Starter #8
JP,
To be quite honest, I'm only going to use the cap with the air valve.
If you're interested, you're welcome to the other cap and/or hose.

EJ
 

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If OP can't use these fork caps, I sure can, and would be happy to pay costs for shipping to Ottawa K1J7X5
Cheers,
JP
Hiya Rogue1
I have the fork caps if still required ?
And I'm in Ottawa too K0A 2Z0 ;)

Just text or call me if you still need them 613-978-7four92

Cheers.....Keith.....:cool:.....
 

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Thanks for offers. I have sourced a set and I also will only be using the second cap with valve to delete the hose. Cheers and Happy New Year to all. JP
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for offers. I have sourced a set and I also will only be using the second cap with valve to delete the hose. Cheers and Happy New Year to all. JP
My idea, exactly.

Just curious. What are your plans to plug the holes, where the hose and adapters connect to the caps?

EJ
 

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IIRC, they are M8 fine thread so you should be able to do something similar to what I did when I removed the valves from Eccles' caps

"Since I had to remove the valve stems to re-fill the forks I decided it would be a good time to replace them but I still didn't have any suitable screws. But I do have a lot of 5/16-18x1.75" bolts and a metric tap & die set so I cut the threaded parts off of a couple of the 5/16" bolts, dressed the ends in the vertical lathe and cut M8x1.0 threads in them to match the valve stems, then installed them with copper sealing washers "
 

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Maybe. I was just using what I had on hand.

I don't think I'd use allen grub screws though, because 1) I don't think they would seal as well as a hex head and 2) I hate having to clean out the heads of the few allens my bikes have every time I need to remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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That's pretty expensive for a couple of little bolts. Nobody in your area carries metric hardware?

For that matter, a set of metric taps & dies is pretty much a necessity (when you work on the engine you should always chase the threads) and it wasn't hard for me to cut the inexpensive 5/16" bolts off and cut threads in them.

BTW: I hope you checked that the threads in the holes you need to plug are the actually M8x1. I think they are but I'm not 100% sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had considered, cutting threads. But, I was glad to see these plugs would actually recess into the cap.

Oh, and you want to talk expensive. I looked into buying, just, the air valve, and drill and tap my original, solid cap.
Those buggers are $25.00+US. NO friggin way.

Definitely M8x1, which is why it was so hard to find something locally.
Eveything I found in 8mm was 1.25 thread pitch.

Also, I trimmed down some 1/4" id vinyl hose, to use for a seal. Couldn't find an actual o-ring or washer, in the a size that worked.
And, before anyone asks, no, the oem o-rings will not work.
Because, the sealing surface of these plugs is about .5mm (or 1/32") larger than the same part of the original fittings.

Will do pics, if anyone wants.

EJ
 

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Another possibility would have been to tap the holes out to 3/8"-16 and use hardware store bolts but if you did that you would never be able to go back if you ever decided to restore the bike to original.
 

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Aside from possibly destroying a hose, is there any reason one could not cut the hose and plug the cut ends?
 
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