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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I remember Larry talking about the screws on the flywheel working free.

I decided while I have it out to snug those little darling up and to put some green 'penetrating' thread locker on them.

I found them all easy to turn with a good screw driver. Not an impact driver but just by hand.

How snug do these need to be?



Part 2:

I pulled the water pump oil seal. I put a new on in. I found it pretty darn easy to press in with my thumbs.

Granted I was trained as a wrench by the Army to work on tractor trailers but really. Pressing a seal in with your bare hands? It feels almost flush all the way around. How deep is it supposed to go? And is it bed that it went in so easily? Should I worry?



I do not think I am He-Man or anything but these seem a little too easy.

Thanks for the ongoing guidance!
 

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It should be easy to put that seal in. I'm trying to think but I believe that those screws are one time use and replace. Maybe I can find a torque in the manual.
 

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You're talking about the Torx bit screws right. If so it should be 14-17 pounds. It's all in Chapter 8 of the Factory Service Manual which is downloadable from my signature line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You're talking about the Torx bit screws right. If so it should be 14-17 pounds. It's all in Chapter 8 of the Factory Service Manual which is downloadable from my signature line.


Stitch,

I did not see a torque spec on the phillips head screws that hold the magnets in place on the fly wheel.

These are not Trox. There are about 10 or 11 of them (I did not count them) around the outside of the 'wheel' of the flywheel.



These guys.







Got a lightning storm here so gonna drop off and unplug my gear.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Ok so not the front ones but the ones that hold the magnets on.



Seems like something Rickbert would know. Didn't he lose one a while back.
 

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Oh Those !!

I though you mean the Torx ones at first as well

Well spotted.

I tried to remove some from a scrap rotor once and the buggers wouldnt budge

so I doubt they should be as loose as you said.

I'd be inclned to remove clean and refit with thread lock

I very much doubt wou'll find a torque setting for those anywhere

IIRC they're only about 4mm thread so go mad on them and you may strip threads

so I'd rely on your own common sense, experience and threadlock.



As for the oil seal, its been a while but as long as its a snug, oil tight fit

it should be OK as it only has to withstand crankcase pressure not working oil pressure.

I dont recall having to use much force to fit one.



EDIT

BTW 6 magnets on the CDI rotor

so I'd say there are 12 of those screws
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so not the front ones but the ones that hold the magnets on.



Seems like something Rickbert would know. Didn't he lose one a while back.


I thought so but I have had no luck finding it.

I am going to PM Larry (pretty sure it was him) because I seem to remember him talking about them in one thread. He was saying you should check them any time the engine is out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh Those !!

I though you mean the Torx ones at first as well

Well spotted.

I tried to remove some from a scrap rotor once and the buggers wouldnt budge

so I doubt they should be as loose as you said.

I'd be inclned to remove clean and refit with thread lock

I very much doubt wou'll find a torque setting for those anywhere

IIRC they're only about 4mm thread so go mad on them and you may strip threads

so I'd rely on your own common sense, experience and threadlock.



As for the oil seal, its been a while but as long as its a snug, oil tight fit

it should be OK as it only has to withstand crankcase pressure not working oil pressure.

I dont recall having to use much force to fit one.



EDIT

BTW 6 magnets on the CDI rotor

so I'd say there are 12 of those screws


Thanks!

I was concerned about everyone saying they are single use.

The green 'penetrating' thread locker has grabbed some.

I tried to snug one this morning and the little guy did not want to move.

I might just leave them given how it felt this morning.

I would still like to know a better idea of the torque setting but as you said probably will not find one!
 

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Tony, I helped Rickbert on his. One of the screws backed out and rubbed the engine case and made a heckva noise. That also let the magnet come loose and it started to rub the stator. Good thing Rickbert was smart enough to not continue to run it in that condition or the stator would have gone south too.



We got a replacement from Larry, but the magnet keeper holder was different than Rick's. We finally ended up with a duplicate from PT13, and I installed it with some blue locktite. And I also checked the other screws, but they were all tight.



As to torque on these, I would Locktite them and snug down a little short of buggering the heads. Just a bit past snug. I don't recall seeing a true torque value that was given. And I see no reason why the screws cannot be reused, the Torx screws should not be reused, but I have never heard anything like that one the flywheel perimeter screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tony, I helped Rickbert on his. One of the screws backed out and rubbed the engine case and made a heckva noise. That also let the magnet come loose and it started to rub the stator. Good thing Rickbert was smart enough to not continue to run it in that condition or the stator would have gone south too.



We got a replacement from Larry, but the magnet keeper holder was different than Rick's. We finally ended up with a duplicate from PT13, and I installed it with some blue locktite. And I also checked the other screws, but they were all tight.



As to torque on these, I would Locktite them and snug down a little short of buggering the heads. Just a bit past snug. I don't recall seeing a true torque value that was given. And I see no reason why the screws cannot be reused, the Torx screws should not be reused, but I have never heard anything like that one the flywheel perimeter screws.


Thanks a lot Fox!

I will recheck them tonight with this in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They all came out tonight. They all got dried thoroughly with a paper towel then drenched in blue loctite and put back.

They look like 4-40 or maybe 6-32 so I did not snug them much.

I think the rear engine cover is ready to be put back.

Tomorrow night I think!
 

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I just put my cover back on tonight. Starting to get exciting!!! Putting the spring on for the shift lever and shifter in before the case was slid back on helped a lot. And make sure all seals have a lil lube on them first to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just put my cover back on tonight. Starting to get exciting!!! Putting the spring on for the shift lever and shifter in before the case was slid back on helped a lot. And make sure all seals have a lil lube on them first to.


Nate,

Did you test the shift action before buttoning it up?

In another thread that suggestion was tossed out there.

Mine did not behave itself when I ran that test so I have started a new topic to ask about it.



I wish you luck!
 
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