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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my floats in my carb bowls are not adjust right. i keep leaking fuel out of the bottom drain. how are these adjusted? are the tabs between the floaters and pivot point just bent? which way do i bend them? i figured i bend the float portion down so it contacts the fuel sooner but i don't want to have to keep trying this over and over again to get it right if this is the wrong procedure.
 

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Before you get the floats bent too much from the original setting, make sure that the overflow tubes are not split. This will mimic a bad float setting or bad needle. Also check that the little spring button on the float needle is free to push in and return.



You can hook up a clear piece of tubing to the overflow nipple and route it along side the flow bowl. Open the drain and the level in the tube will be the level in the float bowl. It should be slightly below the gasket seam of the bowl.



You can also hold the float up with your finger when the fuel is "on". The flow should stop with very light pressure upwards on the float. If it doesn't, clean and burnish the seat and make sure the needle is not grooved, or the rubber tip deformed or loose.
 

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also check to make sure your float floats (in other words make sure there is nothing in it like fuel) i have seen a few floats on lawn mowers that have a tiny hole and have gas in them which would cause them to overflow i am not saying thats whats going on here i am just throwing it out there
 

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also check to make sure your float floats (in other words make sure there is nothing in it like fuel) i have seen a few floats on lawn mowers that have a tiny hole and have gas in them which would cause them to overflow i am not saying thats whats going on here i am just throwing it out there
and to follow luckys thoughts.....make sure you run with an in-line fuel filter.the smallest crap within your tank will stop your fvn from shutting the fuel off at the correct hieght
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i've done all the checks mentioned. no holes in the floats the tubes aren't cracked. and the needle keeps the fuel out when its engaged. i know i have to bend the floats down.
 

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i've done all the checks mentioned. no holes in the floats the tubes aren't cracked. and the needle keeps the fuel out when its engaged. i know i have to bend the floats down.
ok mate,sheps web site shows you how[i dont have it on this comp.]

find a post by shep,and in his sig. line you will see ...global etc

you need them set at 15.5mm.

shep has one whole web page on carbs


or you have dons qrg.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=110
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
okay, heres what happened. i pulled the carbs bowls off. did the measurements per the directions on sheps site, wedged a screw driver under the float and adjusted them up. put it back together and tested with some fuel. no leaks. started the bike and set the idle. no leaks. drove it down the drive way (the exhaust fumes were killin me in the garage)everything was perfect so i put it back in the garage. 10 min. later it started to leak. so i drained out the gas again and pulled the bowls again, this time i pulled the float out and tried to bend it under a heat lamp to make it a little easier... snap. f_ck. i broke the float off the hinge. being that i'm cheap and always in a hurry i used an old soldering iron to melt the broken pieces together perfectly. i realized, thru my conversations with stitch, that my problem may not be in the floats but in how the carbs are sitting. when i dropped the back end the engine and carbs pitched forward so the floats will never be correct. of several options to correct this the easiest one i could do was drop the front end to level the motor and see what happens. so i have done that but i ran out of time to test it tonight. next 2 days are packed so i'll put some fuel in the tank on sunday and see if i'm leaking. (i really really hope i'm not, this has taken up way too much time)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
okay i need a favor from someone. can someone please go to their bike and take a measurement of the carburator back at the filter/airbox inlet to the top of the transmission and also (if possible) from the front where the intake hooks in to the carb to the bottom. it looks like when the engine tilted back the carb angle changed. lowering the front to level the motor looked like it corrected this but i'll be draggin pipe at this low of a ride so i was going to modify the rubber boots to set the carbs at a corrected angle to eliminate my leaking.
 

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I wonder if the lack of support from the air box side has allowed the carbs to droop. With pods, there isn't any support on the rear, and the carbs may not be firmly held only by the intake runners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
that gave me an idea. i'm going to set the front end back to its previous height but i'm going to take the rear carb holder bracket that i previously removed and run a long bolt with a nut on it thru the center. it will rest against the top of the transmission and lift the carb up to the correct angle. i'll post picture Sunday when its done. I think this will correct my leaking bowls problem once and for all.
 

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That might work. I don't know if the vibration from the engine case being transfered up thru the bolt will jiggle the carbs too much. I believe that another function of the rubber boots are to isolate engine vibration from the carbs. Maybe a spring going up to the frame rail? I would have to see your setup to really advise. But it wouldn't take much to try the bolt idea, and it may work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i was going to put a rubber bushing on the part that will sit on the case. i'll put some pictures up when i got it. probably a section of all thread instead of a bolt.
 
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