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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like the benefit of clear coat-mostly for chemical protection, either rattle can or gun, on top of a paint job. I'm trying to get a flat finish using flat paints, however. Anyone know how to achieve that? I have compressor and gun but also fine with rattle can if it can be done that way? Maybe there's a flat line of paints that are more chemical resistant? Z
 

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If you spray your own clear-coat from a gun, you can add what is called a "flattening agent" to the clear that will remove the glossy finish and leave it with a low-gloss finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you spray your own clear-coat from a gun, you can add what is called a "flattening agent" to the clear that will remove the glossy finish and leave it with a low-gloss finish.




So, technically, since I prefer to top with commercial clearcoat - even a rattle can job - as long as I test the paints for compatability - I can do rattle can then top with a clearcoat with a flattening agent?
 

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So, technically, since I prefer to top with commercial clearcoat - even a rattle can job - as long as I test the paints for compatability - I can do rattle can then top with a clearcoat with a flattening agent?
Painters would generally frown on crossing paint brands and types, but it could work. I wouldn't be surprised to see a rattle can with a flat clear though.



Just looked and found this: http://www.krylon.com/products/matte_finish/
 

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So, technically, since I prefer to top with commercial clearcoat - even a rattle can job - as long as I test the paints for compatability - I can do rattle can then top with a clearcoat with a flattening agent?
Yes, so long as you do a little research, ask a paint person and then do a test of your own. The problem with commercial paints is that since you'd only want to mix enough for a test you'd have to calculate how many drops of clear you'd need to add to a drop of the catalyst.



Discount tool stores usually all stock those tiny paint sprayers that hook to a can or freon or CO2, I think Harbor Freight has one on sale for $6 this month.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, so long as you do a little research, ask a paint person and then do a test of your own. The problem with commercial paints is that since you'd only want to mix enough for a test you'd have to calculate how many drops of clear you'd need to add to a drop of the catalyst.



Discount tool stores usually all stock those tiny paint sprayers that hook to a can or freon or CO2, I think Harbor Freight has one on sale for $6 this month.




Good tip on the sprayer - I was going to look for a mini away. Thanks, Z
 

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The only way to get fairly decent protection against fuel spills is to use a 2K Urethane system with the proper amount of activator (catalyst) and the right reducer. A little pactice and it will lay so flat only a minor polish is required if at all.



But as with any paint if you spill gas on it lt it evaporate on its own, trying to wipe it off is what messes up the finish.



You can get away with mixing brands of some paint but it really isn't worth the chance. I am using Duplicolor Etch primer and primer/sealer but the paint shop said that would be just fine so long as I put three coats of Nason Color before I started the Nason Clear.
 

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I used the Krylon Satin Finish on my 1980 Delux front fender. I used the Black Satin for the color then 1000 grit wet sanded it to get it smooth. After sanding, I used the Clear Coat Satin finish. It turned out pretty nice, I believe I'm going to do the rear fender as well then re-shoot the tank and side plates the stock Maroon color.
 
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