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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,



A friend of mine has a 1982 CX500c and I have taken it on as a project. It was running a few years ago, but needs a lot of help. He brought it to me in what I would consider a 'parts-condition-bike.' Anyway, my plan is to start with the carbs and see if I can get it running well.



Today, I was going to check compression but my tester doesn't have the right fitting, so I'll be skipping this step and hope that everything is good as it was running when he parked it. I tested spark and we're good to go there, so that's a relief. I took the tank off and it's empty...at least empty of gas that is but appears to be pretty rusted....recommendations? I've heard of a few products to use, but am open to suggestions.



It also seems to be leaking oil, which smells like there's gas in it. It looks like it's coming from the shift lever seal. I plan to change oil and filter, but what should I be concerned about with the gas smell in it?



Finally, the whole left side of the motor has a bronzeish haze to it that appears to be oil or something that's leaked on to the motor and burnt. I don't see any leaks from the head gasket or anything, but just another hurdle to potentially jump later.



P.S. I heard there's a gentleman named Larry that is a wizard with these carbs. Can anyone give me more info as to his fees and what he does? It might be worthwhile to just send them his way instead of messing around with them myself.



P.S. 2 - Honda, clymers, or haynes service manual? I found a honda manual for a little over $40 online....is that what I should get?



Thanks a bunch in advance guys! I look forward to hearing from you!
 

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Welcome! You're at the right place and you'll get the help you need from people who know these bikes better than the people that built them, and that's not me! I'll be watching this thread to see what's up with shop manual preference as well as what to do with the rusty tank. I have my trick to clean rusty tanks, although I'm going to wait and see what the more experienced folks say.
 

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Welcome, and you have found the best forum to answer ANY problem you may run into here! That being said, I can't really help you
I also suggest you also check out the quiuck reference and use the search feature, lots of common questions. That was how I got mine up and running primarily.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Please take a few minutes to edit your profile to show your location and to edit your signature to show your bike's year and model.



I took the tank off and it's empty...at least empty of gas that is but appears to be pretty rusted....recommendations? I've heard of a few products to use, but am open to suggestions.



The POR-15 motorcycle tank kit seems to be the best tank sealer option.



Others will likely jump in and describe how they clean fuel tanks.



It would be a good idea to install an inline fuel filter to prevent crud from entering the carbs.



It also seems to be leaking oil, which smells like there's gas in it. It looks like it's coming from the shift lever seal. I plan to change oil and filter, but what should I be concerned about with the gas smell in it?



The carbs may be letting excess gas flow into the intakes. It would be good to go through the carbs and change the oil prior to starting the bike.



Leaks from the shifter seal are common. Fortunately, the seal is still available from Honda and is reasonably priced. It can be easily changed without digging into the engine. You might consider doing this while changing the oil.



Finally, the whole left side of the motor has a bronzeish haze to it that appears to be oil or something that's leaked on to the motor and burnt. I don't see any leaks from the head gasket or anything, but just another hurdle to potentially jump later.



Try to get the engine cleaned and locate where the oil is coming from. Several places are prone to leak.



P.S. I heard there's a gentleman named Larry that is a wizard with these carbs.



Yes, he wrote the book. Literally.




Honda, clymers, or haynes service manual? I found a honda manual for a little over $40 online....is that what I should get?



I think the Honda factory service manual is the best of the lot by far. You can order it online or you can download a pdf copy for free - see any of Blindstitch's posts for the link.
 

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As far as what book to use- clymers or haynes.... neither.



Use the factory info- and ask here. I agree with DaveF 100% (he's one smart cookie)- check BlindStitch's signature links and save the $40 for parts you'll need along the way




Welcome in! Don't forget to put your bike in the signature line and add your location- there may be someone close by!!
 

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I got Caswells and followed the instructions- worked great to seal the tank. I used seafoam to winterize when I put it away last season- tanked it up (with the seafoam added...), turned the petcock off and let 'er run til she stopped. (side note, I changed plugs @ the end of the season) I don't know what the PO's did to the bike, but I have to say it started right up after the winter's sleep- and I could never get it to start cold last year.
 

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Once I filled a tank with water, and then put a couple of cups of muriatic acid in it and left it over night. Drained it out, flushed with water sprayed wd-40 in it and continued to dry it out. Cleaned out the rust and is still rust free. Muriatic acid is cheap, is used to clean oil stains off of concrete, about $4.00 a gallon. Very dangerous stuff!!!! Put a rusty bolt in a cup of it and the rust will disappear before your eyes. But if you don't coat the metal, you can watch the rust come back in less than minutes. I buy mine from Fleet Farm, in the paint area by the paint strippers. I have also used PUR-15 and recommend that, but it aint cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Welcome to the forum. Please take a few minutes to edit your profile to show your location and to edit your signature to show your bike's year and model.



I took the tank off and it's empty...at least empty of gas that is but appears to be pretty rusted....recommendations? I've heard of a few products to use, but am open to suggestions.



The POR-15 motorcycle tank kit seems to be the best tank sealer option.



Others will likely jump in and describe how they clean fuel tanks.



It would be a good idea to install an inline fuel filter to prevent crud from entering the carbs.



It also seems to be leaking oil, which smells like there's gas in it. It looks like it's coming from the shift lever seal. I plan to change oil and filter, but what should I be concerned about with the gas smell in it?



The carbs may be letting excess gas flow into the intakes. It would be good to go through the carbs and change the oil prior to starting the bike.



Leaks from the shifter seal are common. Fortunately, the seal is still available from Honda and is reasonably priced. It can be easily changed without digging into the engine. You might consider doing this while changing the oil.



Finally, the whole left side of the motor has a bronzeish haze to it that appears to be oil or something that's leaked on to the motor and burnt. I don't see any leaks from the head gasket or anything, but just another hurdle to potentially jump later.



Try to get the engine cleaned and locate where the oil is coming from. Several places are prone to leak.



P.S. I heard there's a gentleman named Larry that is a wizard with these carbs.



Yes, he wrote the book. Literally.




Honda, clymers, or haynes service manual? I found a honda manual for a little over $40 online....is that what I should get?



I think the Honda factory service manual is the best of the lot by far. You can order it online or you can download a pdf copy for free - see any of Blindstitch's posts for the link.


Great info! Thanks a bunch. Can anyone tell me more info about sending my carbs to Larry? Would it make sense to do that, or should I just buy some rebuild kits and use the manual to do it myself? Thanks again everyone, I look forward to your help!
 

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My $0.02

Download and Print the Honda shop manual. There will be things in there you cannot find anywhere else.

Buy the Clymer manual. There will be things detailed the shop manual will not detail. The shop manual a$$umes you have a certain amount of training. Unless you do the Clymer will help.

Finally listen to what everyone on here (but me I am still learning A LOT) suggests. Anything Larry, Blindstitch, Shep... a few others (I cannot remember everybody who knows these animals soooo well not to insult anyone else) is pretty much golden.



Do not fall for the trap they will set for you. Soon you will be repainting the engine, polishing the chrome, doing crazy things you never thought you would be doing. Like me.



I have always HEARD the Por-15 is the best. I have never used any of them. Some radiator shops will seal a tank but it is $$ from what I have seen.
 

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When I did my tank it was really bad inside. I did get the polymer sealer kit, but had to clean the inside before using it. I asked a lot of people and eventually tried what seemed to be a crazy method, but it was cheap .... and worked great.



I filled the tank about half full with sand and gravel (make sure you remove the petcock) and some water. Shake the heck out of it for as long as you can before cramping up lol. I did mine for about 15 min with my kid filling in at times. Dump out the sand and water and wahed it out. Inside looked almost new :) It did take about 30 min or so to get all the sand traces out, but when it was done it was clean. I then sealed it with the kit from a bike store .... expensive but worked well.



Some say use Muriatic acid (which is and old world name for what it actually is, Hydrochloric Acid, same stuff your stomach makes). While in the world of acids its considered a weak one (compared to nitric, sulphuric, etc) it can still burn the skin if your really careless. The only problem with using it it it DOES eat rust, but also bare shinny metal. It also is dependent on the concentration of the acid depending on where you get it. Most hardware stores sell it for concrete etching at a concentration of about 10%, commercial grade can go as high as 40% (which IS really nasty stuff).



Anyway, your call, I chose arm power over chemical power, just to ensure I didnt end up with a clean tank inside plus a few thin spots and holes. Aslo, the kit I used to seal the tank comes with a "conditioner" that DOES eat some of the metal inside to create a bonding surface for the polymers.



Take your time and you will find its not hard to fix up your CX500 (mine is also a 1982 CX500 that sat in a barn for 30 years), and with the people you will find here on this forum, almost no problem will be too hard to solve :)
 

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Great info! Thanks a bunch. Can anyone tell me more info about sending my carbs to Larry? Would it make sense to do that, or should I just buy some rebuild kits and use the manual to do it myself? Thanks again everyone, I look forward to your help!


If you want them perfect and can afford the price (I do not know the price) Larry is the MAN! If not buy the book and follow it letter for letter. That is what I did.



Here is a link to some of Larry's handiwork. Beautiful...



http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/4127-my-82-gl500i-restoration/



You can contact him directly from his member info on the left of his posts.
 

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As for Larry and his carb work, I can attest. I had him do mine last year, and they are still in excellent form. I did make sure to put a filter inline before I ever ran gas through them, and have had no issues since. It was roughly $250 or so. Well worth it for the piece of mind and every other part of the bike will be so much easier to tune right after that. I also have the book, as there is no reason not to. A great reference to have around.



Welcome aboard.



Joel in the Couve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the info! This will make it a tough choice for me. I was given a $500 budget to spend on the bike, but imo this thing needs a little of everything. It needs tires, probably brakes, probably fork seals....who knows on the clutch. Random seals and gaskets, already got a new battery. Needs a clean tank. Fuel lines and filter. Oil and filter. Diff oil. It needs turn signals as it was once a windjammer bike. I have no idea what shape the cam chain is in and I've heard that is a big deal on these bikes. AHHH! I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed.
 

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$500.00 goes very fast when you are getting one of these back into dependable condition. I have spent a little more than that on mine just this year. Stator, cam chain, cam tensioner, ignition, tires, gaskets oil seals etc etc etc.......... As with anything old.... it will never be done, and will always be old. At least the design makes it easy to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, I can see $500 going away really quickly. I'm going to hijack my own thread here and see if anyone has an idea what it might cost me to replace the tires. That will likely end up being a big portion of the budget.
 

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Don't get discouraged. A lot of how you prepare this machine depends on how you intend to use it. Daily driver? Touring? Trailer Queen? Or just something fun to ride once and awhile. I cleaned a fuel tank with a multiple "shake & rinse" process starting with sifted (1/4" and smaller) & water rinsed coarse (sharp) gravel and kerosene. That got the initial crud out. Hot soapy (Dawn) water rinses. More crud. More gravel more kero. Lots of shaking. Lots of crud. Lots of shaking it & drying it in the sun. The final wash cycle was done with Naval Jelly & gravel. Cost? About $20. The final rinses were with kero, no gravel. Did not use a sealant as there were no leaks to seal (others might disagree with me on that). Although I did invest in a handful of cheap inline filters until all the specs were gone. Keep the tank topped off before you come home, especially in the springtime when the incoming fuel is cold and the air is warm and full of moisture (condensation). This will eliminate a lot of rusting potential. Do the carbs really need to be rebuilt? I "rebuilt" mine with Lucas Injector Cleaner. Of course the cam chain & tensioner are critical, but only need to be replaced if they are worn out. Brakes are nice to have, and the front caliper / piston is usually pretty cruddy and will need to be looked at if they don't feel right or just because they are brakes. I'm in the process of cleaning the caliper / piston before investing in a stainless piston. I got EBC brakes on eBay for $5 each front & rear & $12 ship. $22 total. This is a 30-year old machine. It will need a thorough going over, and like all machines, never ending maintenance. To me, that's half the fun! I cleaned all the electrical connections coz I was having goofy lighting problems. Cost? 1-can of CRC contact cleaner and a fine brass brush. Blinkers run about $10 each on eBay. I'm presently trying to snatch a $50 CX that's been sitting outside for 15-years. What a shame! The present owner is a real loser and I intend on rescuing that CX. If I seal the deal you can have the blinkers for ship cost. They won't be pristine, but they'll get you on the road. Fluids (oil's) are part of life. My ride will never be pristine, but it will be a solid machine that will get me there and bring me home (safely). I only ride for fun, no touring. Around here, we use a lot of old farmer technology. Be creative, investing more time than money. There's a lot you can do without spending a ton of money. My target date for completion? July 4. Make a "do" list. Starting with critical stuff first. Methodically work your way through it all until you hit the last thing on the list. Later on, you can keep upgrading and making everything "just so". For now, make the machine safe, mechanically sound, and get in the saddle!
 
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