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My name is George and I'm the proud owner of a 1983 Honda CX 650C! I bought the bike from a co-worker who said it needed new tires, refilling the master cylinder and a good carb cleaning. Well, after new tires, carbs being "cleaned" (I can't verify how much they did but the bike ran after they were done) and master cylinder being refilled, I drove the bike home and then to my buddy's house (stalling out multiple times along the way). Upon trying to leave, my buddy, a regular motorhead, noticed the bike lurch forward when starting. We surmised the clutch cable wasn't properly adjusted but decided to leave the bike at his place. Fast-forward to today, the bike is at my house and sitting in the drive way. I started off by throwing some bolts and washers in the fuel tank to chip off as much rust as I could as well as taking the opportunity to drain the fuel and replace with fresh gas. Then, after buying a battery tender to charge the battery and taking off the float bowls to clean (and by clean I mean empty out the old gas and spray with carb cleaner, shameful!), I discovered the peculiar operation (or lack there of) of the fuel petcock and how it was lacking a vacuum line! Replaced that, tested that my spark plugs work, the bike turns over, I hear the starter motor, a low chug-chug-chug and even got a backfire, but it simply won't start. Any ideas on troubleshooting or next step in repairs would be much appreciated, will bribe sage enthusiasts with plenty of high resolution pictures of this beauty! :cool:

Looking towards the future, after I get the bike started, I'd also like to do a fluid change on this bike. What do I need in preparation for that?
 

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welcome to the forums george, i'm currently restoring the same bike as you have. some things to do first hand. first..( and yes..i know it's gonna suck !..lol ). if i were you ?..i'd drop the motor..( drain the oil first !..lol )..and get the rear cover off..so you can have a look at the cam chain ?..mine was very bad when i bought it !..although...i really did not expect to have a running bike when i went to buy it for 400 bucks !..lol. anyway....see what the cam chain looks like ?..this is very important !..as well as the cam chain slack adjuster ?..some tend to not work good ?..lol. soooooo..if all that is good ?..then pre-order a complete engine gasket kit during all this fun !..i did..had everything in it i needed. i tested my stator and all that before i buttoned it back up..got the engine all back in..carbs got all new jets from honda..pushed the start button..she fired right over ! ( yes..i did re-fill with fresh oil and new oil filter )..was music to my ears !..i did not put the exhaust back on yet ?..as i wanted to make sure it would run ?..i have a thread going in the general area..just waitting on some brake parts and turn signals..then i'll get that all done..then start to work on my side covers and tank work..before i take them to have them all painted. dropped the seat off and sissy cushion to an upolstery shop today..thats gonna be a couple weeks b4 i get that back..told them i'm not in a hurry..lol.
 

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oh..and purchase a water pump mech seal kit..and oil seal for the water pump..another very important part to get replaced !.
 

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forgot to mention...please be very careful spraying carb cleaner into any carbs !!..they have rubber parts in them ..and carb cleaner..( spec gumout )..will melt them !..lol.
 

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Caution....!!!!!!

Before you drop the engine....let us know the details...... about your bike.....the mileage, where you are etc. Add that to your profile and signature. Then we can assist better.

Now, take a look in the WIKI *see link below* and do some poking around....you will find many tremendous tips and help.

Welcome in,
Joel in the Couve
 

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Hi george,

Is it still the old battery that is in the bike? I would fully load the battery again and measure the volts. If its below 12V after a full charge its probably dead. Anyways, its because you said that the starter turns over slowly.

I would also fully clean the carbs but I would first try with a fresh battery.

Maybe you can also clean the starter itself. Its an easy job and gives a lot of improvement.


About the cam chain. Can't you just check the cam chain through the inspection port at the back with a dental mirror on a 650? Then you don't have to drop it yet.
 

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Hi George, just to let you know that there are at least a couple of us on this forum who live close enough to you that we could lend some assistance if you need it. Dan Colvin is in Chesapeake and I'm in Newport News. I'm retired so have lots of spare time for tinkering. Welcome to the group!:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@all Thank you for the warm welcome! When I get home tonight I'll be sure to post pictures and a video!

welcome to the forums george, i'm currently restoring the same bike as you have. some things to do first hand. first..( and yes..i know it's gonna suck !..lol ). if i were you ?..i'd drop the motor..( drain the oil first !..lol )..and get the rear cover off..so you can have a look at the cam chain ?..mine was very bad when i bought it !..although...i really did not expect to have a running bike when i went to buy it for 400 bucks !..lol. anyway....see what the cam chain looks like ?..this is very important !..as well as the cam chain slack adjuster ?..some tend to not work good ?
Thanks shadetree! Hmmmm, dropping the engine sounds a bit involved, how difficult would it be? Mind you, this is pretty much all new to me, first bike! As I understand it, the cam chain is essentially what spins the rear wheel. Could a bad cam chain cause the issues I am experiencing? That being said, if/when the carbs are redone, it seems to make sense to overhaul the engine as well!
..lol. soooooo..if all that is good ?..then pre-order a complete engine gasket kit during all this fun !..i did..had everything in it i needed. i tested my stator and all that before i buttoned it back up..got the engine all back in..carbs got all new jets from honda..pushed the start button..she fired right over ! ( yes..i did re-fill with fresh oil and new oil filter )..was music to my ears !..i did not put the exhaust back on yet ?..as i wanted to make sure it would run ?..i have a thread going in the general area..just waitting on some brake parts and turn signals..then i'll get that all done..then start to work on my side covers and tank work..before i take them to have them all painted. dropped the seat off and sissy cushion to an upolstery shop today..thats gonna be a couple weeks b4 i get that back..told them i'm not in a hurry..lol.
Glad to hear you got yours running! Where did you order your engine gasket kit? Was Honda helpful in sourcing parts? I'd also like to replace all the O-rings that I find as I take apart the bike (because the manual says so :p). I'll have to find your thread!

forgot to mention...please be very careful spraying carb cleaner into any carbs !!..they have rubber parts in them ..and carb cleaner..( spec gumout )..will melt them !..lol.
Thanks for the heads up, already sprayed it. Oh well, I figured they would have to cleaned the right way, I'll be sure to replace all the rubber parts when I do so.

Caution....!!!!!!

Before you drop the engine....let us know the details...... about your bike.....the mileage, where you are etc. Add that to your profile and signature. Then we can assist better.

Now, take a look in the WIKI *see link below* and do some poking around....you will find many tremendous tips and help.

Welcome in,
Joel in the Couve
Thanks ramprat06! Will update signature shortly and provide photos/videos to the thread later tonight!

I have this stock response to every new person who comes in here.

Welcome to the forums! You'll find lots of information: some you may need, somemay not apply- as the old saying goes “your mileage may vary”.

1)Fill out your location, and model of Honda in your signature/profile - oddsare high there’s a member who lives close to you who can help you out ifyou get in a jam. A second set of eyes will often time’s see something thefirst set of eyes missed.

2) A: Purchase a good camera; take pictures of whatever you take apart thenreverse the order to put back together. B: If you get in a jam, post thepicture on here and we'll see if we can figure it out with you.

3) Plan on doing a 10,500 mile tune up. (Also known as the “Maximum miletune-up- its listed in the manuals depending on the model of bike) A)Download the Factory Service Manual (itsfree, and located here:
http://cxgl.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual ) and B )Purchase a copy of Haynes orClymer’s repair manual to have instructions on how to do things. New sparkplugs, etc. Make a list from the FSM.

3C: Before you reporta problem, please open up the FSM to chapter 20 on “troubleshooting”- it’s aflow chart that takes you step by step through the bike. Study it, then ask your question(s). Thiswill prevent a whole lot of "What do you mean?" type questions. Go back to the “See maximum service interval”odds are high the Original Purchaser (“OP” on the forums) didn’t do anywherenear the amount of maintence they should have- so you’re stuck with the job.

4) Your bike is 30+ years old; check the date codes on the tires- if there’sany question that they could fail for any reason plan onreplacing them.

5)Plan on overhauling the master with the slave and brake padswith the brake line on the front brakes. I highly encourage you to replacethe 30 year old brake line with a modern stainless and upgrade to DOT 4 ratedfluid- that extra 20 degree's before boiling can save your tail going downmountains.
Also, clean and use some kind of rubber cement to repair thecracks in the intake boots between the carbs and the cylinders manifold- if youdon’t fix them they’ll suck in air leaning the fuel/air mix resulting in burnedvalves and loss of power.
(I baked the crap out of my front brake 2 years ago going downI-90 east of Seattle down the Cascades near a place called Snoqualmie pass- itwas a LONG trip getting the bike to the shop 38 miles worth to get itfixed and upgraded)

6) Odd’s are high you have carbs, therefore you need Larry's Carb book. Ihighly encourage you to get the colored photograph version- its expensive at$30 but its highly worth it. Or give Larry $300 or so plus shipping andhe'll overhaul the carbs for you. Nobody does carbs better than Larry,except maybe MurrayF. They both havedecades of experience- if you argue with them you’d better be able to back itup.

7)Think about replacing the battery. Theres 3 major kinds: original lead acid, Lithium-Ion, andAGM. The originals are good, cheap witha short lifespan. Our charging systemswere never designed with lithium-ion in mind so the results have been mixed-some have reported good results, some have reported bad results. I have an AGM in mine and wouldn’t trade itfor anything. Our bikes are like 30cubic inchs and the rule of thumb is 3 cold cranking amps per cubic inch. Imagine how your bike will start with an AGMthat makes 220 CCA!!
We believe theres no such thing as a silly question- if indoubt, ask. However, we also reserve theright to give silly answers!

Anyhow- welcome to the forums, remember we'll always be here as long as you ownyour bike,,,and maybe a bit longer!
Thanks Trailltrader!
1) Will do that shortly! Looks like I already found some Hampton Roads Honda-heads in this thread! :)
2) Pictures/videos incoming tonight!
3) I was fortunate enough to find this site:
https://sites.google.com/site/1983hondacx650c/
Click on 'Component Information' and you'll find links to each chapter of the manual. It and my neighbor have been my trusty guides up until now! I'll be sure to refer to it first before asking any FNG questions!
I would ideally like to perform/address all the checks in the Maintenance Schedule on page 3, just because I can't verify the maintenance history on the bike.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...zaG9uZGFjeDY1MGN8Z3g6 Mjc3ZmJlOTE3ZDQwY2NiOQ
4) New tires on the bike, put on by a shop!
5) Thanks for the advice on the brake line/fluid! I most certainly am concerned about my front brake and after I get the bike running plan to address that more thoroughly. I also would like to restore the intake pipes but a bit nervous about doing it correctly and effectively: any instructions or advice on that one?
6)Definitely plan on getting Larry's Carb Book, from what I've read it sounds like it's worth its weight in gold...errr, it's an eBook...so digital gold? I dunno, it just sounds good! :p
For cleaning the carbs, I've read the two ways are ultrasonic or chemicals. The chemicals are hard to come by, do you have any experience with ultrasonic cleaning? Should I look around for someone who has an industrial one and see if I can borrow some time with it or could a $35 one used to clean jewelry work just as well?
Amazon.com: Sonic Wave CD-2800 Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner Cleaning Machine-White/Gray: Electronics
7)I think a battery replacement is definitely in order. The bike came with a fairly modern AGM one in it but my neighbor has a heavy duty marine battery charger with digital interface, voltage selection, etc and it reported that one of the cells was no good! Any ideas on a good place to buy that battery?

Thanks for the intro post and I'll be mindful of any silly answers I get sent back :p
Hi george,

Is it still the old battery that is in the bike? I would fully load the battery again and measure the volts. If its below 12V after a full charge its probably dead. Anyways, its because you said that the starter turns over slowly.

I would also fully clean the carbs but I would first try with a fresh battery.

Maybe you can also clean the starter itself. Its an easy job and gives a lot of improvement.


About the cam chain. Can't you just check the cam chain through the inspection port at the back with a dental mirror on a 650? Then you don't have to drop it yet.
Thanks Lacher!
The bike came with a fairly modern AGM one in it but my neighbor has a heavy duty marine battery charger with digital interface, voltage selection, etc and it reported that one of the cells was no good. I picked up a $25 battery tender on Amazon and charge the battery for 24 hours; when I first hook it up, the bike cranks fine, starter motor turns quickly. However, after 4-5 attempts, the time it takes the starter motor to start turning increases and it turns less quickly. A new battery is definitely on my shortlist of parts to buy. Also, I will look into cleaning the starter next: I definitely want to pamper it as much as I can and have one in reserve just in case this one craps out. I will check the cam chain tonight.

Hi George, just to let you know that there are at least a couple of us on this forum who live close enough to you that we could lend some assistance if you need it. Dan Colvin is in Chesapeake and I'm in Newport News. I'm retired so have lots of spare time for tinkering. Welcome to the group!:D
Thanks chilimac!
I live in VB, work in Norfolk. Are there any meetups for Honda bike owners? My dad is a Mercedes-Benz mechanic but I'm really starting to fall in love with the brand, as far as motorcycles are concerned.

Finally, I leave you all with my far off aspirations... :-D
Honda 1983 CX650C Rebuild
 

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Hello .lol.

I think it's hard to check the automatic tensioner and the chain of this engine....I mean without pulling the rear cover.
How did You do it ?
i had already pulled the motor..and removed the rear cover..there are some pic's of this in my thread. i did all of this after reading up here..figured..why not just go through everything ?..lol.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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For cleaning the carbs, I've read the two ways are ultrasonic or chemicals. The chemicals are hard to come by, do you have any experience with ultrasonic cleaning? Should I look around for someone who has an industrial one and see if I can borrow some time with it or could a $35 one used to clean jewelry work just as well?
Amazon.com: Sonic Wave CD-2800 Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner Cleaning Machine-White/Gray: Electronics
That ultrasonic cleaner will probably be too small for your carbs, even one at a time. Harbor Freight has this one for $69.99 (IIRC) with a coupon from the recent mailer.



A number of members use this unit. Not industrial quality, but it does the job well enough. I've had mine for a couple years, now. It travels a lot.


R

P.S. Just found the coupon in the mailer.

Item number: 95563
Coupon number: 86788496
$69.99, plus $6.99 shipping
800-423-2567 or
HarborFreight.com
 

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Welcome to the forum, wont find a better place with better people anywhere. Started a few years back with my first bike and 0 knowledge about them, and the guys here made working on it a pleasure :)
 

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Welcome to the forum, George. As Chuck has already told you, I live in Chesapeake, so I'm probably not very far from you. I must say, I'm a little jealous...I'd love to have a 650! You're lucky to have found one locally. The main problem is that they're a one-year production model, making parts a little harder to find. That being said, you might just want to give it to me & save yourself all that trouble! ;) Seriously, we'll have to get together soon & talk motorcycles!
Dan

P.S PM me with your address & phone & I'll do the same.
 

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Ok, another thread where we need to say......"Hold on a minute"

You should probably delay dropping the motor as suggested. I would suggest a bit of testing and diagnosis first.

1.) have you checked for spark on both plugs?
2.) have you checked for fuel in the carbs, tank, petcock on?

There is a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) in the WIKI. Download it. Become familiar with it. Get a copy of a Clymer's or a Hayne's manual (I don't know if these are available for a CX650, but a CX500 should be close). These are good for what the FSM doesn't cover. And they usually have color coded wiring schematics. The wiring can be a bit of a headache at times.
 

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good god this is such a twisted pile of start with the most complicated stuff

hey to the original poster before you pull the motor

or jack the air filter up and slip anew bike in underneath it pm me i will help you check a few things

and with a loving grain of salt i say to you most of the guys here have cdi cx500s not ti bikes like the gl500 and 650s

so they may not give you the 650 specific advice so take a deep breath send me a pm of the troubles you are having and lets go from there

ps remove the seat on the left side of the bike near the frame over the air box is a connector from the pulsers on the rear of the motor

it has blue white blue yellow and yellow white small wires it like to come loose from the seat pushing on it (this is only on the cx650)

then one or both cylinders wont fire properly

ps try not to loose the 2 round spacers that fall out when you take the socket head cap screw out of the tail to get the seat off

they love to fall out and disappear
 

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Hey!!! I resemble that remark..... well at least about the CDI bike.

I started with simple diagnostic stuff.....

Geesh. :p;)
 

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i just kinda chuckle that sometimes we start with the most complicated expensive item
You mean like telling a guy how to remove his heads to replace valve guides before asking him if he did a leak-down test first?
 
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