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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got a 600CC ninja fan to do the electric fan conversion. Others have stated around a 2 amp draw. I've been running with it for a month with no real problems.





Today I got around to putting a multimeter on the thing. It is drawing 4 amps. It sounds great and pulls a hell of a lot of air. the problem is, it seems to be a bit too much for my electrical system. With the fan on, it is barely charging the battery. With the fan off, it charges at about 13.7 volts.



The fan already pulls more air than is useful. Is there a way to regulate the fan voltage? Anybody have a diagram? (i'm an engineer) Also, the extra draw won't hurt anything, correct? (i'm thinking no, because it is already a permanent-magnet type system)



Thanks!



-Brendan
 

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Did you wire in a switch so it turns on at the right temp since it only needs to be on when cooling. Not all the time.



Also your stator sounds a little weak.

Do you have a standard 55/60 headlight bulb. I have seen some people throwing in 100watts and maxing out their system. My HID only uses 30 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you wire in a switch so it turns on at the right temp since it only needs to be on when cooling. Not all the time.



Also your stator sounds a little weak.

Do you have a standard 55/60 headlight bulb. I have seen some people throwing in 100watts and maxing out their system. My HID only uses 30 watts.




I have a 35 watt HID and LED tails. Stock lights otherwise.



The fan is on the thermostat that Shep recommended... 75 C NO.



If it is the stator, I'll probably do it this winter. Actually, I would like to here about replacing the stator with a GL style and using ignitech for spark. Is there a write-up? The extra charging system capacity is very attractive.
 

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The charging system is not up-to-spec by your figures.Both my CX even at idle and with the fans on run @ around 14.5v DC which I would expect.

The Ducati Fans use 2 amps,the Ninja fans use 4 amps but even this should not be a concern with a good charging system.

You can reclaim some current back by replacing the Stop and tail bulbs with the much better LED versions,



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1157...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

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I bought the same fan but I'm a long ways from mountintg it. When I do I'll have a controller circuit for it that chould effecctively tame the current draw situation UNLESS the bike is really hot.



The motor on the side says 3A, I hooked it up to a bench supply and found it to only draw 1.8A at 12V. How it shot up to 4 is a mystery.



Guy that has my bike finishing a few things up took a look at the fan and said no way would it fit dur to the length of the motor. I assume that due to the samall diameter it will offset from the camshaft enough to go in there?



Have any pictures?



I might design the controller early so you can take care of your problem and I can build mine just to be ready.



[EDIT:] That little fan blows so much at full speed it probably provides half the acceleration of the 600 Ninja bikes. :)



I know what it did on the bench pulling only 1.8 A, can't imagine if it was pulling 4 A.



I can tone it down with no problems, it certainly doesn't need to run that much air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help guys. Looks like a stator is in my future.
 

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I bought the same fan but I'm a long ways from mountintg it. When I do I'll have a controller circuit for it that chould effecctively tame the current draw situation UNLESS the bike is really hot.



The motor on the side says 3A, I hooked it up to a bench supply and found it to only draw 1.8A at 12V. How it shot up to 4 is a mystery.



Guy that has my bike finishing a few things up took a look at the fan and said no way would it fit dur to the length of the motor. I assume that due to the samall diameter it will offset from the camshaft enough to go in there?



Have any pictures?



I might design the controller early so you can take care of your problem and I can build mine just to be ready.



[EDIT:] That little fan blows so much at full speed it probably provides half the acceleration of the 600 Ninja bikes. :)



I know what it did on the bench pulling only 1.8 A, can't imagine if it was pulling 4 A.



I can tone it down with no problems, it certainly doesn't need to run that much air.


Unfortunately the Ninja fan I got was a crappy four blade one but was cheap.You most likely have one of the better ones.I dumped the Ninja one and paid a bit more for another Ducati fan.



I've since ground about 3mm off my Cam shaft ends as I decided to put my money where my mouth is and never go back to a mechanical fan.As the one on my Main CX has been working flawlessly for well over a year now I see no need to ever go back.I did however,just for test,put some washers inside a Mech fan and bolt it back on so even after grinding the cam shaft ends some one could still return to a Mechanical should they so wish.



Unfortunately the guy who mounted his Ninja fan over there does not seem to be on this new forum so no pictures
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a spare .... perhaps I should try a rewind
 

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The fan I got was from an older one and has a lot of blades, apparently draws a lot les current as well.



I took pix of it but haven't been able to locate my camera cable to transfer then to my PC, and since I use a Fuji camera you can't just plug their proprietray xD cards into any reader I've ever found. I ordered a newcable that should be here this week and I'll post pix. Hopefully by then I'll have a controller designed as well.



I'm just going to go by the signal I get from the actual temp sensor used to drive the gauge on the bike as the refere3nce and control a PWM circuit. It should be fairly easy to construct and duplicate by anyone.
 

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The fan I got was from an older one and has a lot of blades, apparently draws a lot les current as well.



I took pix of it but haven't been able to locate my camera cable to transfer then to my PC, and since I use a Fuji camera you can't just plug their proprietray xD cards into any reader I've ever found. I ordered a newcable that should be here this week and I'll post pix. Hopefully by then I'll have a controller designed as well.



I'm just going to go by the signal I get from the actual temp sensor used to drive the gauge on the bike as the refere3nce and control a PWM circuit. It should be fairly easy to construct and duplicate by anyone.


I thought of using the temp sensor circuit but decided against it as I wanted the fan switching circuit to be independent of it just in case a fault developed in it as happened recently on my 2nd CX in the 7v supply making it read high which would have kept the fan on when not needed.
 

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I guess you'd just have to watch out for any failures, that or put some sort of idiot light on it such as wiring a diode over to the oil pressure light such that it comes on if the temp gets too hot.



Here's some pix of the fan I got. Blades are a bit worn, probably came from a wrecked bike but they'll smooth out with a file. It works well regardless.



Warning: Huge picture files: http://www.innoengr.com/CX500/ninja_fan/Ninja Fan pix/



I was going to add dimensions before I posted the pix but the fan's over at CXOkie's at present and I forgot to measure it before I sent it with him.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I tested the stator tonight.



Resistance:

1 ohm between each of the three yellow wires



Voltage

30 voltage AC at 3000 RPM between each of the yellow poles. Won't go over about 40 volts when revving.







Sound dead to you guys? I'm thinking the no load voltage is a little low.
 

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I tested the stator tonight.



Resistance:

1 ohm between each of the three yellow wires



Voltage

30 voltage AC at 3000 RPM between each of the yellow poles. Won't go over about 40 volts when revving.







Sound dead to you guys? I'm thinking the no load voltage is a little low.


That does seem low.I'll re-check one of mine tomorrow but I would expect to see around 35v AC on most 3 phase stators.
 

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I guess you'd just have to watch out for any failures, that or put some sort of idiot light on it such as wiring a diode over to the oil pressure light such that it comes on if the temp gets too hot.



Here's some pix of the fan I got. Blades are a bit worn, probably came from a wrecked bike but they'll smooth out with a file. It works well regardless.



Warning: Huge picture files: http://www.innoengr.com/CX500/ninja_fan/Ninja Fan pix/



I was going to add dimensions before I posted the pix but the fan's over at CXOkie's at present and I forgot to measure it before I sent it with him.


Yeh that looks much better than the one I got but as said I know have two Ducati fans so I'm sorted.



If for whatever reasons you decide not to bother making an adjustable sensor Shoreride on here has some of the 75 Deg C N/O sensors and I have some more if needed.
 

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The charging system is not up-to-spec by your figures.Both my CX even at idle and with the fans on run @ around 14.5v DC which I would expect.

The Ducati Fans use 2 amps,the Ninja fans use 4 amps but even this should not be a concern with a good charging system.

You can reclaim some current back by replacing the Stop and tail bulbs with the much better LED versions,



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1157...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Sorry to hi jack but I read what Shep said above and have a question:



Shep,



So you just replace the bulbs that are in the tail/stop housing with these and that's IT ? Need to do nothing more but switch the bulbs ? If so how many do I need to do this ? Not interested in the blinkers....just want to make the tail/brake light brighter...thanks.
 

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Sorry to hi jack but I read what Shep said above and have a question:



Shep,



So you just replace the bulbs that are in the tail/stop housing with these and that's IT ? Need to do nothing more but switch the bulbs ? If so how many do I need to do this ? Not interested in the blinkers....just want to make the tail/brake light brighter...thanks.


They go straight in.They are built with their own resistors encapsulated so are a straight replacement.You only have to worry about ballast resistors with LED indicators but now you can get electronic flasher units that even take care of that if you did want LED flashers.



Note:On my UK CXs I have to remove the rear lens to fit as normally you can fit them from under the seat from the back.No biggy as once fitted they just never blow.
 
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