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1979 CX500 Custom, 1981 GL500 SilverWing
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to check my fan. The Clymer manual, under "fan removal", says "remove radiator". Under "remove radiator", it says "remove exhaust system"... do I really need to remove the exhaust system ?... (sorry, Clymer - just double-checking !)... Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Reach is easier with the headers removed, but I don't think they would prevent fan removal.
Clymer may also suggest using the front axle as a fan puller. Don't believe it! While the thread is correct, the tapered end will let too few threads to engage and you might strip out the threads in the fan hub. Find a square ended bolt of the same thread and pitch.
 
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DO NOT - repeat , DO NOT - use the axle bolt as a fan puller . get the correct sized bolt , file the end flat , screw it in the fan hub till firm then give the head of the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer . Might need to do this a couple of times but the fan will pop off easily.

Strip the thread out of the soft cast hub with the tapered axle bolt and you will have to cut the fan hub to pieces with a grinder to remove the fan.
 

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You need a M14 x 1.5 bolt , about 2 inches long. Any engineering supply store will have one .
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Reach is easier with the headers removed, but I don't think they would prevent fan removal.
Clymer may also suggest using the front axle as a fan puller. Don't believe it! While the thread is correct, the tapered end will let too few threads to engage and you might strip out the threads in the fan hub. Find a square ended bolt of the same thread and pitch.
Thanks, Randall - my '79 CX's first "trial run" (100 kms) ended with a sound like a playing card in the spokes. I thought maybe the valves or the fan. I'd like to inspect the fan anyway - it seems to be recommended - and the FSM is, I think, telling me "do this" and "do that" but not "how", unless I downloaded the wrong one...haha ! It also says in order to adjust the valves, remove the gas tank but I can't figure why... but thanks again !
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DO NOT - repeat , DO NOT - use the axle bolt as a fan puller . get the correct sized bolt , file the end flat , screw it in the fan hub till firm then give the head of the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer . Might need to do this a couple of times but the fan will pop off easily.

Strip the thread out of the soft cast hub with the tapered axle bolt and you will have to cut the fan hub to pieces with a grinder to remove the fan.
Thanks - I'm off to Edmonton Nut And Bolt...
 

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It also says in order to adjust the valves, remove the gas tank but I can't figure why... but thanks again !
On a Standard or Deluxe, taking the tank off makes it easier to remove the valve covers.
 
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You need a M14 x 1.5 bolt , about 2 inches long. Any engineering supply store will have one .
The bolt I use is about 5" long, so I can get my whole hand around it.
 
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I got the correct bolt at a big box store, i was surprised for sure. Whenever using bolts to press things on/off, never hurts to put a little grease on the bolt, less friction on the threads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Might be good news - I managed to get the seat and tank off, I finally got the radiator off except for the top hose but it swung out of the way and, thanks to the five-dollar bolt and the helpers on this forum, I got the fan off !... It looks great and so does the radiator... I awkwardly topped up the radiator and I'm hoping that if it needs more, it'll suck it out of the reservoir...?... Like The Hollies said, I'm "King Midas In Reverse"...!... Thanks, everybody !
 

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If you have a temp gauge keep an eye on it. . for the first ride or two...sometimes the radiator is a bit low once air is fully purged but the equilization tank/overflow looks ok....the equalization tank should also have its level checked with engine warm not cold.....
Good its getting sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you have a temp gauge keep an eye on it. . for the first ride or two...sometimes the radiator is a bit low once air is fully purged but the equilization tank/overflow looks ok....the equalization tank should also have its level checked with engine warm not cold.....
Good its getting sorted.
Thanks, bahn... I also removed the valve covers and tried to do that TL and TR business - it seemed like the feeler gauges touched as they slid through and the engine sounds great so I'm thinking all's well there and I loosened the cam chain bolt and re-tightened it and the engine still sounds great !... I'm planning to ride it to Victoria, B.C, from Edmonton, Alberta in a month or so... when it was delivered to me, the battery was a solid block of ice so I let it thaw and put a battery tender on it for a day - so far, it fires right up almost before the start button is let go... fingers crossed.
 

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Good karma with it...
With the tappets i always err on the loose side and check more often..
If the bikes been idle for a while next cam chain check you can place a wooden block on the loosened adjustment bolt and give it a tap...(not a smash!) ....
No need to redo your work....next service....
Sounds like its getting there....
 

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I think I would be replacing the battery if it has been frozen. If your battery fails it will make your trip miserable and tedious. Swap a new on in before you ride that far.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think I would be replacing the battery if it has been frozen. If your battery fails it will make your trip miserable and tedious. Swap a new on in before you ride that far.
Thanks, muzza - I have to admit that it has been nagging at me...
 

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A frozen battery can be "saved"...if theres no damage to the case and its thawed.. according to google (reputable sites.)
You dont want to go from frozen to boil with an unregulated charger...and badly discharged then frozen might b unsalvagable....
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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If the specific gravity of the battery's electrolyte has been low enough for it to freeze it has been discharged far enough to cause a significant reduction in charge capacity so it would be wise to replace it even if it seems to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If the specific gravity of the battery's electrolyte has been low enough for it to freeze it has been discharged far enough to cause a significant reduction in charge capacity so it would be wise to replace it even if it seems to work.
Thanks, Bob - I picked up a new battery today, $90 at Princess Auto, trickle charging as we speak !... I might keep the old one as a spare - or not.
 

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I keep an old battery that doesn't take a full charge but does have 12V on the end of the bench for testing things.
But I like to play with electrical stuff...
 
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