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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

Finally put together some wheels but alas it has the classic fan wobble knocking noise. I did a bunch of reading and know about the M14.x1.5 procedure so I picked one up on the way home. When I got the rad and retaining bolt off I was afforded the additional pleasure of being presented with a stripped thread on the fan, the one the M14 is supposed to tighten into!! So I would like a little advice and confirmation perhaps. I have a spare rad, I will swap out my good rad with the lesser rad and use the 2 inch washer trick for now in case of "grenading". In the meantime I will go after parts for an electric fan conversion and modify the better rad, more questions to come
. Seeing as the thread is stripped how should I get this fan off. Saw someone saying they used a pry bar but I am leary of hurting the seal/case/cam as it appears the previous owner was an idiot and already may have put some pressure on this, there is signs of a small oil leak, but it looks old and may have settled down as she doesnt leak now. I was thinking I could tear apart the plastic portion of the blade and then carefully hack saw? off the metal collar. But Im thinking there might be a more elegant solution........



As always, erroring on the side of caution, cause I just love this CX too damn much !



Boltonguy
 

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I'd get some scrap 2x4 and cut it into wedges to

tap gently behind the fan and put it under strain

then use a hair drier/hot air gun on the alloy boss

which should expand more and quicker than the steel shaft

and hopefully pop off.



theyre not usually on that tight but who knows?
 

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I'm thinking torch. Lots of heat very quickly so that the heat doesnt have time to transfer to the cam. Just a little propane torch, not a welding torch, although that might work to
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hmmm excellent suggestions, good place to start !

Thanks guys
 

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I would cut the blades off the fan and use a gear puller with heat... or drill and tap the fan hub three times and make a puller from that again use heat simultaneously.

Cheers, 50gary


I'd go the gear puller route too, you really don't want to be banging and pulling too much on a camshaft. If you're got a steady hand and a circular saw, get a metal cutting blade and carefully cut slots into the hub, once weakened it should pop right off. Since you won't need the mounting stub on the shaft after the conversion, no worry about nicking the end of the shaft.
 

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Unless you knick it enough to make it unbalanced????


????????? It's a camshaft end, you could remove half of it and it wouldn't make a difference. A few who have done the conversion have cut or snapped the end off the camshaft for better clearance...or was that WHY some did the conversion in the first place?
 

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Just thinking if it's cut at an angle there would be more weight on one side than the other. At high rpm's over time.....


Wouldn't make any difference, if you look at the way it's mounted and it's orientation. The rotating mass is at the rear of the camshaft and it's fixed at more than one spot. It doesn't have enough rotating mass in the end shaft to make a difference. If you put a metal fan on and attached a fishing weight to the end of one of the blades...then yeah, it would make a difference, but even then over a long period.



If I were doing the conversion, I would follow the advise of those who ground down or cut off the end of the camshaft to make more room for the conversion, so it'd be a moot point either way.
 
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