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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Yep. IIRC it is about the same torque you would use on an M5 (or maybe M4?)
Bob, that sounds like torque values are all directly related to the size (diameter) of bolt "shafts" - is that correct ?... so if I know the size of bolt, I therefore know (can look up) the torque value ?... would this apply to everything from a bicycle to the space shuttle ?
 

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No drama....
I never can find my conversion graph when needed..
I just use the calculator
13 to 26inlbs....l set to 13 for first click then re-set to18...and reapply..
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
No drama....
I never can find my conversion graph when needed..
I just use the calculator
13 to 26inlbs....l set to 13 for first click then re-set to18...and reapply..
Thanks, bahn - I wouldn't've thought of that... I would've gone straight to 18... good advice !
 

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Bob, that sounds like torque values are all directly related to the size (diameter) of bolt "shafts" - is that correct ?... so if I know the size of bolt, I therefore know (can look up) the torque value ?... would this apply to everything from a bicycle to the space shuttle ?
Torque values depend on more than diameter of the fastener. The material and grade of the fastener is also of consideration.
 
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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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What Mike said^^^.
But to be clear, for fasteners made of the same grade of steel the larger the diameter the more steel there is so the higher the torque value.

For your bike, the FSM specifies the torque for every nut/bolt that doesn't require the standard value and I think I mentioned the chart somewhere near the beginning of the book that gives the values for everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
What Mike said^^^.
But to be clear, for fasteners made of the same grade of steel the larger the diameter the more steel there is so the higher the torque value.

For your bike, the FSM specifies the torque for every nut/bolt that doesn't require the standard value and I think I mentioned the chart somewhere near the beginning of the book that gives the values for everything else.
Thanks, Mike and Bob - yes, I remember that you mentioned the chart. Some reading material for bedtime which is right now !
 

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A further thought - does anybody think that Locktite should be used on the fan retaining bolt ?
Nope..only time I had one "loose": when when a honda shop overtightened it on a new VF750...and sheared the head.......:confused:


ignore that lol.....I thought you said drain bolt!!:D


Yes blue loctite.....to your Q
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Nope..only time I had one "loose": when when a honda shop overtightened it on a new VF750...and sheared the head.......:confused:


ignore that lol.....I thought you said drain bolt!!:D
Thanks, bahn - so do you have an opinion about Locktite on the fan retaining bolt ?
 

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13-26 in-lbs. Set it to 19 in-lbs.
Or finger tight plus 1/8 turn. That's at the low end of the wrenches range.
 
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Specified torque is also dependent on the material receiving the fastener. In the standard list, you'll notice there are values for bolts and values for screws. Bolts are paired with steel nuts. Screws thread into an aluminum casting.
 
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I'm looking at the torque values in the CX500 FSM as I type this and in addition to "bolt and nut" in sizes from 5mm to 12mm and "screw" in 5mm and 6mm it also lists "flange bolt and nut" in sizes from 6mm to 10mm, with higher values specified for the flange type in all sizes except for 10mm.
Note that the torque values given are for clean, dry threads (= no trace of oil) unless specified in the section about that particular assembly.

Note also that he torque specified for 5mm screws is more than double that specified for the rad drain bolt. I have a feeling the torque applied by hand to the wing head replacement for them that Randall found is probably pretty close to spec,

Note also that the torque specified for the 8mm fan bolt is lower than that specified for standard nuts & bolts. This is because of the tapered fit and the aluminum fan hub.

If torqued properly no thread locker should be needed. Anywhere. (unless specified in the book)
Note that ANY time you use any thread locker the torque applied must be reduced because of the lubricating effect of said thread locker.
This is a very interesting read. Having seen it I will no longer use thread locker on anything that is torqued to spec unless its use is also specified.

BTW, by definition a bolt is something that threads into a nut and a screw is something that screws into anything that isn't a nut.
This means that until you use them they are neither bolts or screws. I have come to think of them as sort of Schrodinger's fasteners ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I'm looking at the torque values in the CX500 FSM as I type this and in addition to "bolt and nut" in sizes from 5mm to 12mm and "screw" in 5mm and 6mm it also lists "flange bolt and nut" in sizes from 6mm to 10mm, with higher values specified for the flange type in all sizes except for 10mm.
Note that the torque values given are for clean, dry threads (= no trace of oil) unless specified in the section about that particular assembly.

Note also that he torque specified for 5mm screws is more than double that specified for the rad drain bolt. I have a feeling the torque applied by hand to the wing head replacement for them that Randall found is probably pretty close to spec,

Note also that the torque specified for the 8mm fan bolt is lower than that specified for standard nuts & bolts. This is because of the tapered fit and the aluminum fan hub.

If torqued properly no thread locker should be needed. Anywhere. (unless specified in the book)
Note that ANY time you use any thread locker the torque applied must be reduced because of the lubricating effect of said thread locker.
This is a very interesting read. Having seen it I will no longer use thread locker on anything that is torqued to spec unless its use is also specified.

BTW, by definition a bolt is something that threads into a nut and a screw is something that screws into anything that isn't a nut.
This means that until you use them they are neither bolts or screws. I have come to think of them as sort of Schrodinger's fasteners ;-)
Schrodinger's kittens' fittins ?
 

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The prevailing wisdom on this site has always been to put blue locktite on the water pump impeller nut IIRC. Is that still the case or no?
 

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Water pump impeller yes,seals the threads and after many miles the copper washer tends to loosen and lets the nut come loose.
 
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I don't think I ever did. If the seal washer has been either replaced or annealed and the nut torqued to spec it should be fine.
I do like to smear some silicone sealant into the camshaft's splines before i install the impeller as a backup seal, though.
 
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