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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still working on my GL500 project, doing a kinda Mad-Max / Fist of the North Star / Rat style and am in the process of repainting tank / fairing flat black via rattle can. I am sanding down everything but was wondering on the plastic fairings how far down do I really need to go? I have done both the side covers down to the bare plastic - they look beige and absolutely no sign of the factory paint. The rear trunk I did the same but the bare plastic is black.



Did I go overboard by sanding it that much? I used coarse dry sandpaper (electric hand sander) to remove the paint and stickers then went over with 400~800 wet sandpaper (again electric hand sander) so it is very smooth again. It is kinda after the fact since I already did it but I still have the fenders and luggage bags to do...



I'm assuming when sanding the tank to take it to the bare metal, right? Any tricks to getting the flat black to look good without having to use a clear coat? I've heard the clear coat defeats the purpose of the flat black since it would make it shiny.



From my research everyone says the key to a good rattle can job is the prep work, so I really wanna make sure I do this right!
 

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for plastics it's always best to remove all paint. Sure you can paint over the paint but in some cases the paint doesn't like it.



As for the tank it depends how bad the paint on it is. If the stock paint is not smooth and looks defective I would take it down to bare metal. There is a paint stripper in a spray can at walmart that will eat all the paint off in 15 minutes. Then sand, prime, sand, and paint.



If you want a flat paint job you don't want a clear. Might even want to use something like BBQ paint.
 

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On the topic of painting the tank, can I strip it and clear coat it? I'm trying to make my bike look less....black
You can strip it....I am not sure of the clear coating yet, but I just use the eagle metal polish on mine and it doesn't rust at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just an update on the painting of my plastic parts. I painted them with about 8 coats (15-25 minute intervals between coats) using Krylon Fusion and they turned out excellent. I am really impressed with that product for plastics at least. They look almost brand new and since that paint "fuses" with the plastic there should be no chipping or flaking. Going to let them settle for a few days before coating it with Krylon Matte Finish.



I am really glad I sanded all the way down to bare plastic because I don't think it would have "fused" well otherwise since it bonds to the plastic itself. Krylon Fusion = Awesome.



Has anyone used the Krylon Matte Finish? I need a "clear coat" that won't make it glossy and the Krylon Matte Finish was the only Krylon product I could find. Looks like it is meant for artwork finishing, including plastics, but not sure how durable it is.



Pics will come in the next week or so once I get the tank finished.
 

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Just an update on the painting of my plastic parts. I painted them with about 8 coats (15-25 minute intervals between coats) using Krylon Fusion and they turned out excellent. I am really impressed with that product for plastics at least. They look almost brand new and since that paint "fuses" with the plastic there should be no chipping or flaking. Going to let them settle for a few days before coating it with Krylon Matte Finish.



I am really glad I sanded all the way down to bare plastic because I don't think it would have "fused" well otherwise since it bonds to the plastic itself. Krylon Fusion = Awesome.



Has anyone used the Krylon Matte Finish? I need a "clear coat" that won't make it glossy and the Krylon Matte Finish was the only Krylon product I could find. Looks like it is meant for artwork finishing, including plastics, but not sure how durable it is.



Pics will come in the next week or so once I get the tank finished.


One suggestion... be sure to try the clearcoat over whatever base before doing it on the tank. I've seen same brand paint clear that would melt the base. Even stuff that is supposed to be compatible can be tricky.



also...The base coat is also prone to be still be off gassing (drying) enough to orange peel any top coat.
 

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Krylon matte does not like to have gas dripped on it. Both times I dribbled I let it dry and polished it out later. You can't see the spots after I fixed them, but who knows how log it will keep.
 
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