[5/9/39]

Hello all,

Well I put that mechancial seal in the back case. I spent 2 days trying to figger out

how I would enlarge the water pump hole for the larger size mechanical seal that we now use.

I come up with something. I used a 18 penny nail that I cut the head off of it

and split it down the middle about 3/8 in. Then I cut about 7ins. of emery cloth and cut 3/8in slice

of the side of it.taking this 3/8in. piece sliding one end thru the split in the nail and wrapped

the lengh of emery cloth counterclock wise around the end of the nail. I then put the nail in my drill. then put

the emery cloth end in the hole and run the drill until hole was the size I needed. 100X emery cloth.

I didn't go back passed the weep hole. If you work at it the hole will be round.I put a sealer on the

mechanical seal. It looks good. I let you know if it works. OLDBIE

 

[CXPHREAK]

I use a die grinder with the appropriate mounted stone, - very carefully and checking progress often.



Once you've done this you'll never have to worry about this again as now your bike will take the readily available seal [AESseals in my case] when and if the job needs doing again.

 

[ramprat06]

Are there any pics of this? I'd like to visualize the area. I keep getting confused, as you said this was done in the rear cover.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Are there any pics of this? I'd like to visualize the area.

This explains the whole procedure, with the appropriate tools.





R

 

[Blindstitch]

This explains the whole procedure, with the appropriate tools.





R

That's the best explanation. And it tells you exactly what to get. One thing I would like to add is that you really need a slow corded drill. A cordless one doesn't have the oomph depending on volts.

 

[ramprat06]

Thanks, I know I had seen that before, but couldn't figure if it was on the rear case or the engine side. It's neither! It's the water pump cover! GOT IT

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

That's the best explanation. And it tells you exactly what to get. One thing I would like to add is that you really need a slow corded drill. A cordless one doesn't have the oomph depending on volts.

In the photos in that link, I was using a cordless. No problem.





R

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Thanks, I know I had seen that before, but couldn't figure if it was on the rear case or the engine side. It's neither! It's the water pump cover! GOT IT

No, it's the rear cover. It is the water pump side of the rear cover, though.





R

 

[Blindstitch]

When we did mine we had a 14 volt and an 18 volt and the 14 wasn't worth it. And having manual jaws helped with the corded drill but don't get carried away.

 

[5/9/39]

This explains the whole procedure, with the appropriate tools.





R

Sorry fellows, I thought I had a real deal there, But you can use a 1 inch socket in

place of the pvc. I did. Oldbie

 

[CXPHREAK]

As far as a socket to use as part of a bolt press to install the seal the best one I have found in my shed is the special socket for sending units like the CXs oil pressure sender.



It not only is a precise fit but the socket has extra depth to clear the seal face.

 

[DaveF]

I use a die grinder with the appropriate mounted stone, - very carefully and checking progress often...

I would not have enough control with a die grinder and stone to keep from botching the whole job. But since you were able to, that's great.

The flap wheel works best for me.

 

[CXPHREAK]

Actually, I think the flap wheel would be easier but I have the [pneumatic] die grinder and many stones so I use what I have.



With the right stone and a slowish 'orbital' motion the die grinders not too bad if you hang the hose from directly overhead.

 

[ramprat06]

No, it's the rear cover. It is the water pump side of the rear cover, though.





R

......ooooh. Since I've never had the rear cover in my hands, my eyes must be failing along with other things. Thanks Randall.