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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Obviously if my temp gauge goes to red and/or my pipes turn blue I'm too hot.



What is a "normal" position for the needle on the temp gauge?



I took my bike out for our first lengthy ride. Up until now I had not gone farther than abt 7 miles at a time. This ride was abt 45 miles total. Five miles then the first tank fill, about another 15 miles then stopped for a quick lunch, then the last 25 miles back home (the long way of course). I've always felt that my bike warmed up quickly. With in a minute or two of starting it is up to the right edge of the thin line in the temp gauge just left of the half way position. On my short rides the temp indicator has been either at the halfway position or just past (to the right). On the way home on this ride I noticed that the temp indicator was about ¾ of the way to the red. I also noticed that the pipes were just starting to turn a light straw or gold color. The color change is new and started on the last leg of this ride. When I bought the bike in February I was told that the PO had serviced the coolant system but not the fuel system last fall before storing the bike. The tank was rusty, the bike idled high and it seemed obvious that the fuel system had not been serviced or stabilized. I checked the coolant and pipes and the pipes were a bright chrome but had not been polished in a while, and the coolant was and still is a nice green color and at a good level. I have cleaned and sealed the tank, cleaned the carbs with help from Blue Fox and Larry’s book, and adjusted the valve clearance/cam chain tenssion. Most of the valves had .001” to much clearance, but are now at manual specs (i.e. .003” intake .004” exhaust). Plugs are new plugs set to abt .025” gap. The old plugs looked well used but not fouled and were a dark tan/red color gaped at abt .025”, normally I would have blasted them clean and reused them but I already had new plugs. The old plugs are NGK D8EA, the new plugs are NGK DR8ES-L per the book at the local auto parts store (O'Reilly's). I think that there is a little more color change on the right side pipe then the left, and I get a little bit of popping from the right (I don't think I am getting any on the left) exhaust when I slow down by engine braking, the popping was/is the same before and after adjusting the valves. During my ride the RPMs were usually between 3500 and 5000 when cruising. At one point on the last leg I did notice the temp drop a little when I rode thru some very light sprinkles (very light).



Is the popping when engine braking normal, what engine speed (RPM) do you guys cruise at, and where does your temp indicator normally sit?
 

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Assuming you have the stock exhausts, I believe they are double walled, and usually should not colorize. It sounds like it might be running either lean or rich, and/or you have an air leak causing that condition. That would also explain the popping on engine deceleration.
 

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You say your coolant is at a good level, did you check it at the rad filler or are you looking at the overflow tank? How old is the coolant? Just to eliminate any variables, if you don't know the age of the coolant maybe just drain and refill with brand new to start with. With the mechanical fan that runs all the time, your temp should stay centered usually. Mine will go up to 3/4 or so in the summer, when it's 90F and I'm in stop and go traffic. Another thing to check is if your 7V regulator is functioning correctly, but it doesn't really sound like your's is off if it's staying in the middle most of the time.
 

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When it's below 75 outside my temp gauge stays on the nominal mark. When it's in the 90's outside it stays around the M in TEMP. But then, I rebuilt my voltage regulator last year and it's done that since I did that. Before it would stay in the nominal and then randomly hit the red for a while and then go back down. Never knew just what the real reading was back then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe the pipes are stock, the H-box certainly is, the mufflers are Harley's. According to P.O. coolant was changed last fall. I did not check the radiator level just the overflow.
 

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I believe the pipes are stock, the H-box certainly is, the mufflers are Harley's. According to P.O. coolant was changed last fall. I did not check the radiator level just the overflow.
can i suggest you very quickly check the level of coolant in the rad.slide your tank back a few inches to gain access.

the overflow/expansion bottle has nothing to do with the actual coolant in the system,do not rely on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
can i suggest you very quickly check the level of coolant in the rad.slide your tank back a few inches to gain access.

the overflow/expansion bottle has nothing to do with the actual coolant in the system,do not rely on it.


Will do.
 

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My bike also sits on the mark between the thin and thick lines, even on 43c days two up. Sitting in traffic the temp will creep up but I've never seen it get anywhere near the red zone.



Something's not right.
 

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Something's not right.
agreed,i would not put any credibility into what the previous owner told you.

i would service the cooling system.

i fill my cooling system with white vinegar,leave over night,drain and flush.....i wonder how much crap is still in yours.those fins within the rad. core are not very big
 

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If we believe everything PO's said who knows where we would be. PO is just another word for liar. Especially when money is involved.



Maybe John needs to post some pictures of Sunflower.
 

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If we believe everything PO's said who knows where we would be. PO is just another word for liar. Especially when money is involved.



Maybe John needs to post some pictures of Sunflower.
ok,Don,

this is how a cooling system could look.........



the frame was not a lot better






one can imagine how the small pipe core of the radiator looks
 

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There we go. But the PO said he had it running but it sat for a while.


How long does it take for antifreeze to turn into diamonds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It sounds like it might be running either lean or rich, and/or you have an air leak causing that condition. That would also explain the popping on engine deceleration.




So how do I tell if it is running lean or rich?
 

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Plug color. Hold the bike at a certain rpm/speed for a few miles hit the kill switch and check the temp. Don't alter the riding condition. Just kill and check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·


Great info Bandit Thank you.



I flipped the kill switch right before I pulled into my driveway this evening and pulled the plugs I'm estimating that they are in the #20-#22 range. I'm assuming that this means either my plugs are to hot or my fuel is to lean.



What is the difference between the NGK D8EA plug that was in the bike and is recommended in my Clymer's and the NGK DR8ES-L that was listed in the book at the local auto parts store and is recommended in my Clymer’s for Canada (I live in Missouri)?



Should I change the plugs or adjust my fuel mixture (I was getting the same popping when engine breaking before changing my plugs)?
 

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The NGK D8EA plugs assume that resistor plug caps are being used.I used to think these were purely for RF suppression but since researching over the years I now know they are also part of the CDI ignition circuit.This changes a little with a TAI engine(Transistor Advanced Ignition) engine as they are are more forgiving.



The DR8ES-L have an,"R" in the designation.This means they can safely be used with Plug caps like I use that do not have a resistor in them as they have a built in resistor in the plug.They can also still be used with a resistor type type plug cap AFAIK but this is just an educated guess and would always set myself up to only have the one resistance in the circuit if possible but as many people are using DR8ES-L with resistor plug caps and also use Iridium Plugs with resistor plug caps I don't think there's a problem doubling up.



If the bike has not had new plugs since you got it then get a pair anyway and keep the old ones in your bike tool kit as spares cleaned and gap=checked/set.





http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Plugs.htm



You can get the standard plugs very cheap from lawn mower suppliers as well as other sources.



Then check and adjust your mixture.







Note:North American models had a stop tab on the idle mixture control as part of the emission controls of the time.This is redundant now and can be removed if present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have coolant.



Pulled my tank off this evening and checked the radiator. It is full to the rim with bright green coolant. I can see down into the rad. and the fins/ports that I can see look clear and clean.



My new choke cable, throttle push cable , and fork seals came in this week so I’ll be changing them out tomorrow morning (I hope). I have already turned the mixture screws out ½ turn to enrich my fuel. After I change out the cables and seals I hope to take her for a ride I’ll report tomorrow night.



Thanks for the help.
 
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