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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

Im running a 1982 gl500. I have had a short problem for a few months now. When I use my turn signal, the front ones work but the back ones both flash, no matter which direction. This I could live with because i didn't have much time to troubleshoot. If anyone knows how to isolate the short, please let me know.

The main issue:
I has riding, everything was normal. Rode on the freeway for approximately 20 minutes. Came to a stoplight. Soon as I throttle to go the bike just dies. My lights all go really dim. The green neutral light is barely visible. I pull off to the side and hit my starter switch, not even the slightest turn, however, the light slightly lit up more. Keep trying, and the same thing. Not even the slightest attempt to start.

So i call my friend to bring jumper cables. I hook it up and after some wiggling around the light get bright. i hit the starter and it fires up. Soon as i throttle the bike struggles then flat out dies, dim lights again. Tried this twice and both times same thing. The second time i tried throttling a little harder, i heard a pop right before i dies with the very low dim lights.

What could be the problem?
What could have caused this considering Ive been riding the bike every day for the last 3 months with no problems/

Thanks so much for your help!
-Will

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I think your alternator stator may have died.

Your GL is TI ignition I think?

If so, the ignition needs a 12 volt supply to run.
 

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Plus (maybee) a very big ground problem.

I suggest this is also one of the signs of corrodesd Ground mountings:
When I use my turn signal, the front ones work but the back ones both flash, no matter which direction.
Know it from car trailers: switching the turn signal ----> the left brake light goes on, etc.
 

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I agree with the previous suggestions but would like to add that the battery cables tend to corrode internally.
I would want to take a GOOD look at them with special attention given to the ground cable and where it makes contact with the frame.
Have the turn signals ever worked since you got the bike? They might be mis-wired or have bad grounds.
 

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Sounds to me like your battery is not charging. First charge the battery. If it works then get a voltmeter and measure the battery voltage when the engine is running. The battery voltage should jump from 12 to 13 volts with the engine off to 13 to 14 volts with the engine on. If you take it on the road with a charged battery and the charging circuit not working there is a very good chance won will be stuck again. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for everyones insight. I was a little busy with work so sorry for not responding sooner.

I have installed the main fuse mod previously. I checked it and its still good.
As far as the battery not charging, the battery never showed any issues that day or prior. Always started right up.
I am going to try to tighten everything and check the main battery cables and report back.

Thanks again for the insight!
 

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I agree with arydberg, spend the 10 bucks or so and get a multimeter. We can't see voltage or electron flow or resistance so a meter is vital, especially when owning a 30+ year old motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK... I took the battery to O'Rileys. They said it was dead and had to charge it before testing. Came back 30 min later and they said it was dead. Could it be that the short in the rear signal lights hasslowly pulled the charge from the battery and eventually killed it? Also, when I first took the battery off, the cables were slightly loose. My bike was shaking quite a bit on the freeway before this happened...

Should I but the new battery for 80 bucks? Im thinking of disconnecting the rear signal lights so there isn't a short. Ive given up on troubleshooting them.. thoughts?
 

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Sounds like you need to give the electrical a good look over before you put her back on the road.
I would not want to trust a bike with that many known electrical issues.
Get a meter and spend the time. I understand it can be very difficult to make the time but you have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Where are the rubber mounting buttons?

I will get a meter and spend some time. Once i get the meter. what exactly do i do to to check the electrical?
 

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Any solution to the problem is going to require a new battery so yes start there. You can check the stator while you have the battery out. This was helpful and far easier to follow than the FSM

Battery Charging Problems
 
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