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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know how many people in this section have done or considered an electric fan conversion for their 500s but it's pretty cheap and easy to do,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=209



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=557



The advantages are some increase in performance.

Better cooling cycle<sic>.

Little or no chance of the Mechanical fan grenading the Radiator.

Faster engine warm up.

Parts are easy to source and replace.





If you need the switches they have some down in number and price,



http://cgi.ebay.com/KSD301-Temperat...204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a099559b4







HTH
 

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I don't know how many people in this section have done or considered an electric fan conversion for their 500s but it's pretty cheap and easy to do,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=209



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=557



The advantages are some increase in performance.

Better cooling cycle<sic>.

Little or no chance of the Mechanical fan grenading the Radiator.

Faster engine warm up.

Parts are easy to source and replace.





If you need the switches they have some down in number and price,



http://cgi.ebay.com/KSD301-Temperat...204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a099559b4







HTH


Also, for anyone interested in tapping the switch into their thermostat housing instead of soldering onto the radiator, this unit is a direct screw in. But then you lose your temperature gauge:

BWD TFS500. You should be able to find it at most auto parts stores:

BWD TFS500

 

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Also, for anyone interested in tapping the switch into their thermostat housing instead of soldering onto the radiator, this unit is a direct screw in. But then you lose your temperature gauge:
I wonder if a simple comparator might allow the existing temperature sensor to drive a "fan switch" without impacting the gauge display at all.
 

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I have fitted the temp switch in the radiator drain hole, and it seems to be an ideal location. Works perfectly. Only problem is you have to make your own plug with M12 x 1.25 mm thread.







 

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MGR1,



That's brilliant!



Thanks for sharing.
 

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i used the switch on the thermostat housing because the gauge on my tach didn't work anyways. worked out just fine for me. my biggest problem was i can't decide which size fan to use. I daisy chained 2 pc cooling fans together but i don't know if thats enough. i had one off a honda civic that fit the whole radiator and was like 1200 cfm but the amp draw was so high it stalled the bike when it engaged(like 8 amps)
 

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Since you started posting about this mod Shep, the prices of those fans have gone through the roof! We need an alternative and fast. I spent some time on the Ebay today looking for something else that will work. I found several that were skinny enough, but they were all 12v 80 watts which is about 6.66 amps. That simply won't do. And there are not enough 2nd hand Ducati fans to fill our needs. I love you Shep, your contributions are always well thought out, and some of the best "hacks" ever!!! But I have a homework assignment for you
Please find all of us another way!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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How do you seal the sensor to the brass fitting? Is the aluminum top to the sensor in contact with the anti-freeze? I have the same sensor, this looks like a good way to install it. -Joel



I have fitted the temp switch in the radiator drain hole, and it seems to be an ideal location. Works perfectly. Only problem is you have to make your own plug with M12 x 1.25 mm thread.







 

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How do you seal the sensor to the brass fitting? Is the aluminum top to the sensor in contact with the anti-freeze? I have the same sensor, this looks like a good way to install it. -Joel


Hi Joel.



The top of the sensor/switch is not in contact with antifreeze. The plug is not hollow. In fact I have soldered a copper core inside the plug, see photo below. Testing showed that the switch reacted faster with copper inside. The switch itself is glued inside the plug with JB-Weld, but with a dash of thermal contact paste on the aluminium top. This solution works 100% satisfactory. I use a 75 degree C switch.











Michael
 

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Thanks for the reply Michael, at first I thought it was a reducer fitting with a straight through hole. Much clearer now, this gives me a few ideas now for my fan swap. Thanks again, -Joel



Hi Joel.



The top of the sensor/switch is not in contact with antifreeze. The plug is not hollow. In fact I have soldered a copper core inside the plug, see photo below. Testing showed that the switch reacted faster with copper inside. The switch itself is glued inside the plug with JB-Weld, but with a dash of thermal contact paste on the aluminium top. This solution works 100% satisfactory. I use a 75 degree C switch.











Michael
 

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If you need the switches they have some down in number and price,



http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2a099559b4



HTH


Shep, that ebay link states that THAT switch uses AC current. I just purchased a fan and it's in the mail. Want to get a switch on the way asap
Is it the same switch as others have used with success? I'm thinking that the voltage used won't matter now that I'm thinking about it. It just opens and closes. The picture on that ebay link scares me a little. Kinda looks like there is a funny bracket with 2 holes. I just want to make sure that I'm getting the one MGR and you are using!
 

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If you're going to use the KSD301 series, why not get one that's easier to use?



KSD301A-HR1 M4x0.7 threaded post.

 
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