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Discussion Starter #221
As I expected after the first short ride yesterday, the level in the tank was just barely below the line this morning from air in the line from the rad neck purging. Today was the Polar Bear Ride so it got as warmed up as it is likely to get for the next while. Twice. When we stopped to eat the level was about 1/4" above the line. I didn't notice what it was when we left there but it was about 1/4" above the line again when we returned home. After sitting in the garage (about 7c) for a couple of hours it has returned to just about where it was in the pic above but the engine didn't feel terribly cold so I expect it will drop again by tomorrow.

I figure that's well within the normal range of levels so unless something changes drastically I think I'll say it is working as I had hoped.

BTW: Since the coolant they sell these days is so pale I add a few drops of blue food colouring when I mix it with water to make it easier to check the level. I think the original tanks become more opaque with age because 10 years ago I could easily see the level in this one with only the coolant dye they put in at the factory. My mixture is darker than that but I couldn't see the level without putting a flashlight behind the tank the last time I filled it so it ended up at about at the upper line; It was still that full when I removed the tank but you wouldn't know by looking at the pic, would you?
I drained the old tank into my big measuring cup and since it looked clean I poured the same coolant back into the new tank where it is plainly visible.

Also, the long nut that supports the tank (one of the ones that used to support the old tank) looks a lot more rusty in the pic than in real life but the next time I dip a brush into the rust paint it won't look as bad.
Oh, and in case anyone was wondering the wire is that runs above the tank and into the bottom of the fairing is the radio antenna cable and the trailer wire (also from the fairing) attached to the sidecar strut with red zip ties is for the lights &c at the front of the sidecar (there's another trailer wire at the rear for those lights).
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Has it really been that long since I posted here? I guess it's time for an update...

I only drove it about 1000Km in the last year so there isn't a lot of incentive to get to any of the mods on the list this year but there is always some sprucing up to be done. The "big" job this year was supposed to be replacing the headers with the ones from the 500. The "old" ones were brand new in 2016 but they are aftermarket single wall and the chrome looked worse after one winter than the originals did after I'd been using them for 5 years (& those were 23 years old and not exactly pristine when I got them) and the rust was so thick I half expected one of them would start leaking.
That led to the dangerous situation of making me think about how to protect them, which led me to start this thread Questions: Header temperature? Is there a suitable...

I went over them with the wire wheel angle grinder to see just how bad they were and I should get at least one more year out of it so the job changed to cleaning them up for paint.
After wire wheeling and as removed from bike.
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I decided to treat them with POR15 Metal Prep and brush on a coat of Tremclad High Heat, since I had both on hand. After working the Metal Prep into them well I hung them up to dry while I did other stuff for a couple of days. Metal Prep (& most other phosphoric acid treatments) leaves a powdery white residue that I was pretty sure wouldn't promote paint adhesion. Metal Prep says nothing about it but I did find instructions for Ospho (another Phosphoric Acid based treatment) that said to wipe the residue off with mineral spirits before painting and I found a discussion on a forum where it was recommended to wipe with lacquer thinner after the mineral spirits, which makes a lot of sense to me as I like to wipe with thinners to degrease before painting anyway.
The one on the right is as treated, on the left ready for paint
202412


I painted them on Monday. The can I have is a few years old and even though I stirred it thoroughly it has dried to a satin finish instead of the matte that it is supposed to. Satin will shed dirt better so I'll be very happy if it works like this but I won't be surprised if it burns off either.

In the meantime I did the anual cleanup of the caliper (remove pads, pump pistons most of the way out, clean with contact cleaner and Scotchbrite, apply a thin layer of Silicone grease, work the pistons in & out until they move freely, re-assemble). While I was sitting by the front wheel working on that the condition of the nose of the sidecar started bothering me. Between the spider cracks in the gel coat (some of which have been painted over more than once) and the chips and missing flakes it looked more like a boxer's nose (& not a good boxer at that). "No prob" I thought "lift anything loose, add a bit of spot filler and when I brush on another coat it will look OK."
Right.
When I started working on it I found a lot more blemishes than I thought there were.
202413


Sand, add more filler, repeat and after a while remind myself that it is the winter machine and I'm going to brush the paint so it is probably good enough (at very least better than it was). And of course one of the filled areas absorbed the paint so I had to touch that up, which means I'll need to sand & rub it a bit so I'm waiting for the paint to harden for a week or so before that....
 

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Discussion Starter #223
I forgot to mention: As spring arrived Eccles started leaving little green puddles under the overflow hose. Only a few drops at a time. It turns out that the coolant level had increased slightly as the weather warmed up and the level in the tank was at the top of the upper line. I figured it was splash because the tank was long & narrow and the overflow hose is near the end so I removed about 1/4" of the coolant from it and it stopped happening.

Here is my "fantastic" bodywork (I can do much better when motivated but it is the winter beater after all). You can almost see the brush marks in the pic but they are more visible in person. But that's OK - for the winter machine I go by the "10/40 rule" - if it looks OK from 10M away or going past at 40 Km/h it is good enough ;-)
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The exhaust looked pretty good (this after a couple of heat cycles)
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Until I ran it while adjusting the carbs and then went for a 10 Km ride
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Oh well, maybe it will at least protect the parts that don't get as hot and maybe the phosphoric treatment will help....
 

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Discussion Starter #226
With 2 bikes I don't have an off season.
I seldom mention my other bike in this thread but in the summer I drive "Mr.H", my '83 GL1100 with modified Dnepr sidecar so when I go out this afternoon I will be on this
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