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That CCA seems at the low side of what I've seen recommended (200-220), but might be ok in milder climates. I'd be concerned about the dimensions for the stock location though, so double check the measurements, even if you have other locations planned.

I'm sure you, like most of us, have heard the horror stories associated with exploding LI's, and there are quite a few threads/posts on here that can explain the dynamics better than I can. They do require a different charging set up than a standard wet battery, so do some searching on the forum for other Lithium posts and see what you think.
I'd probably have an AGM (which I have used on two previous bikes) over any others in this day, even though the technology is continuing to progress.
I've never heard of the above brand, so can't speak to it's quality or other aspects.
 

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i suspect you are being sold a bill of goods

every other website quotes thst battery at 95cca just enought to burn up your starter on the first try

its way to small

here is the same batter by the same company on a german site

Motorcycle battery Lithium JMT HJB5-FP 12V 1,58Ah (5,5Ah)
 

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1.5 Ah? That's the capacity of a smart phone battery. If you convert that back to Watts, it's capable of sustaining a draw of 20W for about an hour...

With the potential side-effects, I wouldn't mess around if you're thinking of going Li-Po. It's like dancing on a knife's edge.

I went all out and bought a 220cca 14Ah Shorai battery because its known to have good internal charge regulation, distributing charge evenly and somewhat dealing with spikes and troughs in charge.

I bought their smart charger too, to make sure I can treat it well when charging.
 

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1.5 Ah? That's the capacity of a smart phone battery. If you convert that back to Watts, it's capable of sustaining a draw of 20W for about an hour...

With the potential side-effects, I wouldn't mess around if you're thinking of going Li-Po. It's like dancing on a knife's edge.

I went all out and bought a 220cca 14Ah Shorai battery because its known to have good internal charge regulation, distributing charge evenly and somewhat dealing with spikes and troughs in charge.

I bought their smart charger too, to make sure I can treat it well when charging.
The Shorai one has a 4.95Ah storage capacity but the capacity isn't a massive issue as quoted by Ultrabatt:

"Amp hours is a measure of the storage capacity of a battery or how much charge it can hold. It is of little importance unless you operate the electrics of your bike while the engine is not running and charging the battery on your bike. If your motorcycle has current draw when the bike is not being ridden due to being fitted with an immobilizer system, clock, electronic dash, or other accessories that continues to consume your batteries capacity when the key is turned off then you may need to select a battery with a higher amp hour storage capacity or alternatively just connect the cable from the negative lead of your battery."

I presumed as long as the CCA is enough and the charging system won't fry the battery it should work just fine? Even more so if the battery is left on charge with the correct charger whilst not in use for extended periods of time.

Correct me if I'm wrong!
 

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From the seller:

"Hi,

Thank you for your email and your interest in our item.

We can confirm that this is the CCA measured by our industry approved battery tester."
 

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Run, Forest, Run......what a lame reply. Confirmed to be what??
 

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The CCA rating is how many amps the battery can produce in 30 seconds at 0f/-18c (that means starting at full charge and discharged when done). If you don't expect to be starting your engine at temperatures in that range the CCA rating is completely irrelevant to you. How often does it get to -18c in Manchester anyway?

The Ampere Hour rating is far more important to you. Have you ever noticed that with the stock battery when you are sitting at idle with the brakes on and the turn signals flashing the headlight dims when the signal flashes? When that happens it means the alternator's output isn't supplying what is needed and power is being drawn from the battery (it will be replenished when you start moving again). The headlight will dim less in that situation with a battery with more Amp Hours (BTW djbac: 1.5AH x 12V = 18 amps for 1 hour).

But the main reason you need a battery with a certain AH rating is that no matter what the Cold Cranking Amps rating, if the battery doesn't have adequate AH it won't be able to produce enough current to operate the starter long enough to get the engine started if you need more than one try.

BTW: My CX650E based sidecar outfit is my daily driver in Ontario, Canada in the winter. It has a 330CCA lawn tractor battery to make sure it will start when it is cold out and block heaters for when it is really cold.
 

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People are using the CCA rating to compare batteries that will never be used at anywhere near the temperatures relevant to the CCA rating..... I explained what CCA means to show why it does not matter in this application.
 

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Well, if the seller says it will be ok then I don't see a problem, as seller never exaggerate or lie. Besides, once the RR and stator fry I am sure the seller will cover the repairs :)
 

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Originally the 500 used 140cca min factory

I would not go lower than 160 on s 500 or starter brown out can occur

And use 200 on a 650

Low cranking amps on a 650 consistently break the starter clutch springs from engagement chatter
 

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Murray: Read what I said about what CCA means. Unless you intend to use it below freezing the CCA is irrelevant. It is the AH rating that tells you how many seconds of cranking it will provide.

The original battery was what, 12AH? If you installed a 6AH 200 CCA battery you would be far less happy than if you installed a 14AH 100 CCA one.
 

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Hi Tommyleyland, I will pass on 40 years of automotive repairs and other stuff , go with the highest capacity battery that fits in. Your battery will last longer and starter won't burn out and it will start quicker . Only time to put a smaller battery in some thing is if your racing it and weight matters on your 1/4 mile times.
PS ,if your in dought about something working it or not,it probably won't. Just my experience talking ,cheers Gerard
 

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Bob i read what you said
And if you have to be right ok

EVERYONE BOB IS RIGHT

Just use the best battery that is at a minmium.
Meets the original spec for the 500
The 650 needs more and it needs a clean starter with good
Grrounds and positive connections or you willl destroy
The,starter clutch and have starter and starting issues
The battery i have in my 650s are 220 or 230 cca
And i needed the CCA at 26f this morning
 

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Originally the 500 used 140cca min factory

I would not go lower than 160 on s 500 or starter brown out can occur

And use 200 on a 650

Low cranking amps on a 650 consistently break the starter clutch springs from engagement chatter
Could you elaborate on this for me? I haven't yet experienced any brown outs on starting. That said, Australia's warmer climate might have something to do with it.

Perhaps i'm wrong in my understanding but voltage doesn't change so the speed of the starter motor doesn't change so then it comes down to how long you can provide enough power to keep turning it over which is where amps come in right?

So as long as you can provide enough amps to turn the starter over long enough that the engine fires before it cuts out you won't experience any brown outs/chatter?
 

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There is not much to elaborate on

I have stated my case and experience i have
Repaired dozens of these and helped many
Members through there issues with this

If what you are doing is working keep doing it
But i will never recommend a battery of
that small a capacity
 
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