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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished doing a rebuild on both of my front calipers. Aside from the normal headaches of bleeding them, they are still dragging. Can I assume that the reason they are not retracting when the brakes are released, is that the system has not been bled enough, and the air in the lines is preventing the vacuum it takes to do so? Or am I just screwed, and need to find new ones? Everything was clean and the pots were polished before re-constructing them, I just can't think of any other reason for the drag.........



Thanks,

Brad
 

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I just finished doing a rebuild on both of my front calipers. Aside from the normal headaches of bleeding them, they are still dragging. Can I assume that the reason they are not retracting when the brakes are released, is that the system has not been bled enough, and the air in the lines is preventing the vacuum it takes to do so? Or am I just screwed, and need to find new ones? Everything was clean and the pots were polished before re-constructing them, I just can't think of any other reason for the drag.........



Thanks,

Brad
hi Brad,the pins that hold[run through] the pads,are they clean.?

the minute hole[return hole] in the master cylinder,did you find it? are are you really sure its clear.?mark my word,its small
 

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It isn't because they need more bleeding, that they are dragging. What Bandit said, plus the possibility of a hose that has collapsed and not letting fluid back up. Have you tried cracking the bleed screw when they start to drag and see if that lets them retract? The other area that can cause this is the square groove for the piston O ring. It needs to be perfectly clear of crud for it to help the pistons retract. I'm guessing this isn't your problem if you have already clean them.



I suppose it is possible that the new MC has a problem too. It is messy, but you can crack the banjo at the MC and see if the pads retract. That would eliminate the hose.
 

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ok,air in the system will not prevent the pads from leaving the disc,s.

brake fluid is a rod,made of fluid.it can push,through your lever extra fluid into the system.makeing the rod longer.



are your disc,s getting hot?

or,is there a slight rub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok,air in the system will not prevent the pads from leaving the disc,s.

brake fluid is a rod,made of fluid.it can push,through your lever extra fluid into the system.makeing the rod longer.



are your disc,s getting hot?

or,is there a slight rub?
It's more than a rub, it keeps the front wheel from rolling freely. I'm hoping I'm not at the end of my rope on this one,I was planning a trip soon, my first real vacation in 7 years, and this would pretty much kill it.
 

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It's more than a rub, it keeps the front wheel from rolling freely. I'm hoping I'm not at the end of my rope on this one,I was planning a trip soon, my first real vacation in 7 years, and this would pretty much kill it.
time line,the experts will be in shortly.

after 5 miles are yours disc,s hot?

brake lines are they old rubber or SS.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
time line,the experts will be in shortly.

after 5 miles are yours disc,s hot?

brake lines are they old rubber or SS.?
I have yet to ride since the work's been done.

Old rubber lines, just convinced the wife it was time for SS. Now I just need to find the guy in my area that does them cheap......
 

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Everything was clean and the pots were polished before re-constructing them



Thanks,

Brad


Did you have the calipers completely dissasembled, or did you just polish them while they were still in the caliper body (but fully pushed out/ exposed)?



Have you fitted new pads?



Having a read of thismight give you an idea of how to tackle sticky twinpots.



The piston seal lands in the caliper body have to be completely clean......
 

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i did mine this summer ,,,, i did sand the cylinder!!!!!!! ,,,,did i harm the finish ? what harm have i done ,,,,,, sorry to hijack this post ,,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you have the calipers completely dissasembled, or did you just polish them while they were still in the caliper body (but fully pushed out/ exposed)?



Have you fitted new pads?



Having a read of thismight give you an idea of how to tackle sticky twinpots.



The piston seal lands in the caliper body have to be completely clean......
Complete disassembly, and the seal traces were completly clean.

just took the bike out for a ride, I did not use the front brakes on the return trip, when I got home from the ride of about 8 miles, the rotors are warm, but no where near being too hot to touch. I do need to bleed more though.........
 

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Complete disassembly, and the seal traces were completly clean.

just took the bike out for a ride, I did not use the front brakes on the return trip, when I got home from the ride of about 8 miles, the rotors are warm, but no where near being too hot to touch. I do need to bleed more though.........





Looks like you might be okay....



Why do you say that you need to bleed the brakes more? Is the lever spongy? Air can compress, liquid can not.
 

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Yes, they are spongy.




How are you bleeding them? Are you closing the bleeder between each pull of the brake lever? If the bleeder is left open it will draw air in.
 

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Eurovee asked if you fitted new pads..............and the answer is......
 

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OK, you've had the callipers apart. Did you fit new seals? These seals flex in operation so while they may be holding fluid/pressure maybe they are too stiff with age to allow proper flexing and piston movement. The pisston moves out through the seal as pad material is worn but they do not actually slide back and forth through the seal during operation. This small back and forth movement is a function of seal flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Eurovee asked if you fitted new pads..............and the answer is......
New everything. pads, seals, and fluid.

Rode it to work, everything seems to be fine. Could not tell you about the ride home, I was not able to do it. See the post in General discussions as to why.
 

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Put your hands around the brake lines and apply the brake. If they expand you definitely need new lines.



This guy would have DOT approved stainless brake line made exactly like the originals at a very good price. I highly recommend him.



Craig Raudman

JDA Enterprises, Inc.

19682 N. Hirsch Court Unit 4

Anderson, CA 96007

530-365-8400

530-365-8204 fax

www.JDAent.com
 

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Because they were spongy, I agree that it is likely air.

But, what type of grease did you use on the slider pins?

There is high silicone brake caliper grease made specifically for the sliders.
 

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New everything. pads, seals, and fluid.

Rode it to work, everything seems to be fine. Could not tell you about the ride home, I was not able to do it. See the post in General discussions as to why.
the reason[i think]Eurovee asked,is bacause it is very relevant,new pads-old disc normally equals some drag,until the new pads bed in,match the contours of the disc.
 
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