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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings folks:



I am new to the group, although I have frequently visited as a guest to get tech info. I have read a lot about the Ignitech as a possible cure-all for CDI/Stator issues, but I don't fully understand how it works or where it fits into the overall electrical system once installed; i.e. does it transform the bike from a CDI to a TI ignition, and therefore by-pass the CDI or the stator?



Here is my problem: I have a 1981 CX500C that was running perfectly this past summer until it just died at a traffic light on my way home from work. It just flat cut-out and stopped running. The bike turns over but won't start. The carbs are fine beacuase I had them rebuilt when I bought the bike in order to get it running, and I put over a thousand miles on it before it quit running.



So far I have tried the following fixes: I bought an aftermarket CDI from RegulatorRectifier.com and plugged it in - no change. I then bought a used CDI Pulser on-line, (not sure if the term is correct but it's the part that goes in the back engine cover) that supposedly came off a running bike, and I had a vintage bike mechanic install it - still no change. The mechanic thinks it is the main stator that is the problem since the bike isn't getting spark.



The person I bought the bike from had already cracked open the engine and replaced the stator just prior to my purchasing it, but I don't know if it was aftermarket, used, or re-wound. I am trying to avoid having to take the engine apart again to replace the stator if at all possible. That's why I'm asking if the Ignitech can fix the problem and avoid this.



Any advice is greatly appreciated.



Matt S. - Frederick Maryland.
 

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Think about it as a unit that replaces the cdi (plug and play) and runs off the battery. As long as there is juice in the battery you will be going. It relies on the cdi stator charging winding to send power to the battery but it eliminates the high and low windings that power the old cdi.



I have one and like it.
 

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Hi,

The ignitech replaces the cdi on a cx.



On your cx stator there are wound coils of wire that that produce electric current when the rotor is turning. The majority of these windings produce the current that is used to charge your battery. If one of these windings have a short to ground or some other problem then you will not benefit from an ignitech unit. There are also 2 separate windings on your stator that produce power that goes to the cdi to power the ignition of your bike, if these windings have a short or some other problem then an ignitech unit will fix the problem.

The ignetch replaces the CDI unit. The CDI gets it power from the 2 ignition windings(one high speed and one low speed)on the stator. The ignitech gets it power from the battery. A bike running a cdi will run with a dead battery if you push start it. If you install an ignitech then the bike will not run with a dead battery, even with a push start because it draws its power from the battery.



You need to determine what is wromg with your stator,, a quick test to find out if there is a short in the battery charging windings is to try starting the bike with the 3 yellow wire plug that plugs into the regulator(undr the seat) unplugged. If the bike starts and runs with this unplugged then the problem is in the charging windings and the ignitech would not help you. If unplugging the 3 yellow wires makes no difference and the bike still will not start, then the problem is probably in one of the 2 ignition windings and an ignitech would probably work.

There are more detailed tests that you can do, you will find more info on them on shep's website, look for posts by him in this forum and he has a link to his site at the bottom of the post.

You said you bought an after market CDI?? I did not know there was such a thing, would be interested in hearing more details on that.
 

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OP needs to track down the fault before spending money on maybe the wrong thing.Other causes of none spark/none starting can be faulty ignition switch/dirty electrical block connectors/faulty starter button,faulty kill switch.These must be investigated 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for the useful intel. Hopefully it will lead to a resolution soon.



Allan - I purchased the aftermarket CDI from http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/



All of their products are not readily searchable through the usual means but I was able to track down the part using their on-line chat help which was quick to respond. The original CDI on my bike is a black box unit stamped TIA02-14. Their replacement CDI is model (part number) 2230, and is sourced from Argetina. It was not cheap at $280, and until I can get my bike running and do a little plug and play with it I can't say if it is actually functional or not.
 

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Shep, those are regulators, the unit he bought is a CDI,,see this link



http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1978-1986-Honda-CX-500-CX500-CDI-Unit-83488



I never knew there was one available,,it is expensive and with the ignitech available now

it may be not so viable an option but it is good to know that someone is making them. Thanks for the info scooby
 

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Shep, those are regulators, the unit he bought is a CDI,,see this link







I never knew there was one available,,it is expensive and with the ignitech available now

it may be not so viable an option but it is good to know that someone is making them. Thanks for the info scooby


Cool,sort of.As you say very expensive even compared with the Ignitech ones but at least there's a other source.It doesn't say of they by pass the Stator high voltage supply though.If they don't they are unfortunately inferior to the Ignitech ones.
 

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That's insanely high for what little is inside our CDIs, I think I'm going to make a stab at duplicating the PC board so replacements can be built at a reasonable price if you re-use your existing connectors by splicing them on. Of course there is a source for the connectors but they're kind of expensive.



I could just as well add a HV generator section too (integral or as a separate module) but by then it would be cheaper just to buy the Ignitech.
 

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OP needs to track down the fault before spending money on maybe the wrong thing.Other causes of none spark/none starting can be faulty ignition switch/dirty electrical block connectors/faulty starter button,faulty kill switch.These must be investigated 1st.


On this track, you're sure you're getting fuel? It's not the vacuum fuel petcock? I say this because mine seems to be going south--sometimes seems to work, sometimes not.
 
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