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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my '83 CX650c has been sitting in the garage all winter, recently had some spouts of nice weather so decided to take it out for a spin. After a fresh battery and a new set of spark plugs, it was riding beautifully. Rode hard for a solid 45 minutes and stopped. Noticed final drive leaking oil in a very small but noticeable bead dripping from the bottom of the case onto the rear wheel, and thus being spread all around the right side of the rear wheel. Final drive oil hasn't been messed with recently and hasnt really been an issue before.

I didnt notice oil leaking from the breather cap, so I quickly decided it must be a problem with the seals. So here I am, with the rear wheel removed, final drive case opened, rubber seals and O rings en route. However, after a bit of research, im getting a little worried about the fine details such as setting the pinion preload once that is disassembled to replace the rubber parts within. So far I havent messed with the pinion gear assembly, and I havent removed any seals yet.

I worry Ive already done more than I needed to, but a good mechanic friend of mine is telling me those rubber parts should definitely be replaced before i reassemble. Thoughts? Appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!
 

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I think your friend is correct. If final drive is leaking from a hidden location the seals are compromised. My suggestion is to download the Honda FSM, available from sig lines of moderators, and study it thoroughly before proceeding. I have trepidation about disassembly of anything like that also. Worst case scenario is getting a used part off ebay or on forum, that unit is known for great longevity. Good wrenching!
 

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I had the same kind of fluid leak with my 650e. The final drive inner bearing had begun to fall apart and damaged the seal adjacent to it. I was able to replace the seal and bearing with no special tools. Unfortunately you might have to dig deeper to find the source of your leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
200018

So the shop manual vaguely says to remove the distance collar, shown coming out of the middle of the final drive case. What is the best way to remove this so i can get to the bearing and seal underneath? Is it just seated in there? Heat and a tap?
 

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Yeah, that should just pull out easily, i`m surprised it`s still in place after the rest of the dissasembly you`ve done.
It might need a gentle tap with a drift from the other side if it`s sticky - if you can see it and get a drift on it from that side.
The 650 final drives are really simple to work on, and if you replace everything as it came apart there`s absolutely no need to worry about shims, preload or anything else - it`s gone back exactly as it came apart, nothing`s changed, and the factory-set adjustments to compensate for machining tolerances have not altered.
Have you seen the state of the large radial bearing yet underneath the oil seal?
 

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So, does this mean that the Orings are available now?

I recall these seals and the seals for the 500's being unobtainum for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, does this mean that the Orings are available now?

I recall these seals and the seals for the 500's being unobtainum for a while.
I was able to find mine through partzilla and bikebandit. I believe everything I need was available. Still waiting on a few seals and o rings in the mail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is it worth it to remove the shaft/universal joint for cleaning and inspection? When i removed the final drive, I did find some gunk that resembled a soft cheese that had built up around the connection between the shaft and drive. Thoughts?
 

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It`s so easy to do you might as well - the shaft should pull straight out of the swingarm towards the rear.
The UJ will be left in the swingarm near the pivot area, if you peel back the rubber boot i think there is enough clearance and you could simply remove it from there.
Shafts and UJ`s rarely give any trouble.
 

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I have several good spares, might tear into one of these and change all the seals, just in case. Did you change the bearing too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have several good spares, might tear into one of these and change all the seals, just in case. Did you change the bearing too?
Bearings all seem to be in good shape. So ill keep them. My goal is just to replace as many rubber parts as i can without having to dig too deep. Gears and bearings seem to be in tip top shape. Last of the seals should be arriving today. Unless this spring snow delays the package ?

have fun tearing that final drive up! It is certainly an educational experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So my distance collar seems really stuck. Ive heated it up and tapped from the outside with no luck. Any tips/tricks for getting this off?
 
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