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I believe i have a V3. I bought it off a forum member NIB but didn't know what version. I was talking to David Wiener so he told me to send pics to him and he contacted Ray and then relayed to me it was V3.
 

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I am trying to figure out how to seal the advance area so optic sensors can be used rather than hall. I don't know if this is possible but if so would likely involve two oilseals to run on the hall rotor either side of the sensor. As the rotor is quite long this may be possible..

Optic sensors won't be influenced by the magnet rotor but they don't like oil.

I've discussed this briefly with Ray and I don't think the alteration would be a biggy once sealing was figured.
 

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Is the magnet flux pattern less controllable than optical sensor?
 

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I don't know what that means.

But the left to right timing stagger of the hall is caused by distortions in the magnetic fields around the hall sensors {which read magnetism} caused by the much larger magnets in the nearby rotor.

Optics not influenced by magnetism.

I'm not real knowlegable on this stuff but regardless of the method used these things are merely emulating points. Connect, charge, break connection, discharge to system. Simple timed switching.
 

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Would it be possible to run an optical sensor off the fan? at least sealing is already in place there.
 
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post #44

we are saying the same thing, maybe i didn't word correctly.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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It helps to know what things are used for. Didn't know the stator charged the battery. This is my first engine teardown ever. Probably why my battery died lol.
On most bikes the alternator stator's only function is to power the electric system and keep the battery charged. On a CX with CDI there are extra windings to power & trigger the Capacitor Discharge Ignition. If you are changing to a Rae-San full hall ignition you will no longer need any of those extra windings but you still need to power the electric system and charge the battery.
Note that because of the space taken up by those CDI related windings there is only room on the rest of the stator for a 150W alternator. The stator used in the models that came with the TI ignition system have the same footprint but without the CDI stuff they can be all charging windings so they are rated at 252W.
Since you no longer need the CDI parts of the stator and your new electronic ignition will draw power from the charging system it is generally considered a good idea to change to a G8 type stator, especially if you already have the engine apart.
 

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post #44

we are saying the same thing, maybe i didn't word correctly.
The issue will be my unfamiliarity with the terminology. Flux I believe is a pattern in the magnetism or some such.

The timing stagger annoys me. While I have no in depth knowledge of this stuff I understand the issue a little, mainly from talking with Ray a few times. I suggested a Faraday enclosure initially. Apparently this would generate heat so not suitable.

Next possible circumvention - optics. A plan is beginning to coalesce. Remains to be seen if it is workable.
 

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1981 Honda CX500c "Black Widow"
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
On most bikes the alternator stator's only function is to power the electric system and keep the battery charged. On a CX with CDI there are extra windings to power & trigger the Capacitor Discharge Ignition. If you are changing to a Rae-San full hall ignition you will no longer need any of those extra windings but you still need to power the electric system and charge the battery.
Note that because of the space taken up by those CDI related windings there is only room on the rest of the stator for a 150W alternator. The stator used in the models that came with the TI ignition system have the same footprint but without the CDI stuff they can be all charging windings so they are rated at 252W.
Since you no longer need the CDI parts of the stator and your new electronic ignition will draw power from the charging system it is generally considered a good idea to change to a G8 type stator, especially if you already have the engine apart.
Thanks Bob, looks like the Caltric ST340 stator works from researching some other threads. I will install this one while I wait for the starter clutch kit and other parts to come in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Starter clutch it was, check out that smashed pin. Also, my cam chain tensioner bolt threads we're trashed. Fixed with a helicoil. New stator in. Going to sandblast my coolant impeller before reinstallation too.
 

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In the late 70's inline fours like my 750...yup...seen in forums at least......starter and gears a weak point:(...
Same with cam-chain tensioners of the period...
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Well I got everything put back together and installed. Having trouble getting the bike to idle. And my right side is firing intermittently, exhaust pipe is luke warm while the left side is blazing hot. Also have to hold the throttle at about 30% to get it to start kicking so something is definitely off. Checked spark, it's good. The air coming out of the exhaust is powerful in the left and just puffing in the right.

What can I check on my mikunis to make sure fuel is flowing? Where should I start the set idle screws? I thought all the way in but having them almost all the way out gave a bit better firing for the right side. Also my right spark plug has oil on it, is that supposed to be like that?

I had the valves and cam chain tension set with the rear cover off but I will run thru them all again tonight to make sure.

So close to finally riding it, it's killing me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
It has been a few months since you had ut runningt. Did you drain the float bowls before leaving that long? If not the carbs could be full of varnish....
I did drain them, but I'm thinking the right one has something clogged up in it
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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1981 Honda CX500c "Black Widow"
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
When he sells those carbs. Were these sourced somewhere else?
I sent my stock carbs to Larry to get cleaned and after he couldn't get them fully apart he offered me a pair of Murray's Mikunis he had sitting on a shelf. He said they were tested on a bike and have been sitting on his shelf since then so they we're basically new. Same setup as me, pods and 2-2.

So yes they are from Murray but not directly. If I can't figure it out after trying/checking a few more things I will contact him.

I pulled the drain plug on the bottom of the right carb to make sure it was getting fuel and it is. Then I tried squirting some starter in past the slide while it was running and that had no effect. Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Removed left pod filter, covered with hand to suck gas in, no luck.

Swapped coil wires --> wouldn't start all
Swapped coils, kept wires in correct positions --> only left side works, so no the coils

Going to swap the carbs tonight, this should tell me if the problem is in the carb or not, if it is, the right side should run and the left shouldn't.
 
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