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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Team: Well, my newly acquired GL500, a striped down Interstate, is still electrically dead, replaced the battery that tested dead, replaced the blown fuse above the battery, however, the ignition switch is basically hollowed out and the previous owner said he stuck a screwdriven in it, turned the screwdriver and the ignition switch worked; doesn't there have to be a circuit created by the key; just a turn of an screwdriver until the circuit is aligned wouldn't do it, correct? Thanks, Lee
 

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doesn't there have to be a circuit created by the key; just a turn of an screwdriver until the circuit is aligned wouldn't do it, correct? Thanks, Lee
No, a screwdriver would do it, the key just allows the cylinder to turn.



You could try hot wiring it.
 

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Team: Well, my newly acquired GL500, a striped down Interstate, is still electrically dead, replaced the battery that tested dead, replaced the blown fuse above the battery, however, the ignition switch is basically hollowed out and the previous owner said he stuck a screwdriven in it, turned the screwdriver and the ignition switch worked; doesn't there have to be a circuit created by the key; just a turn of an screwdriver until the circuit is aligned wouldn't do it, correct? Thanks, Lee


I take it that you haven't driven this bike because of the question about the ignition switch being turned by the screwdriver. Or am I wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is easy!.....I will put together the "hot wire" first light: just by being in the off position doesn't the ignition switch extend the lock mech? Thanks, Lee
 

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The lock mechanism is only in place in the LOCK position. In on/off/park it's not engaged. If it doesn't have a fairing on the bike you can also pull the plug off the ignition switch and connect the right wires to the right wires with a jumper.



Red, Black and Black/yellow connect with one wire.



And Brown and White/Brown connect the other.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=176



There's more than one way to skin a cat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just completed the hotwire, direct connection from the battery to the first fuse at the handle bars, just as in pictures and discription, still no juice, just as dead as ever, should I try the wire to wire connection after pulling off the ignitiion switch? Is there something else I need to check too? Thanks all for the help!!
 

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Have you checked to make sure the battery cables are connected tightly,,not only to the battery but to the bike,,negative to the frame, positive to the solenoid. Also make sure the frame is not rusty where the negative cable is connected.



EDIT; Also see this page at DaveF's website,,be sure to check the main ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just checked the ground, all secure and tight, if the hotwire to the first fuse on the handlebars didn't do it, does that mean the new ignition switch I ordered will probably not correct the issue, because I bipassed the ignition switch when I went directly to the first fuse from the battery, right?
 

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If you have a meter, check to see if you get any voltage on the wires you jumpered from the ignition switch. The Red should have battery voltage as it comes right of the 20A battery fuse. The White/Brown comes from the fuse in the ceter fuse box (base of the handlebars). Make sure the fuses in there are all good as well. That way you can at least validate the wiring from the battery fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I need to buy a new meter; can't find my old one.



If I am doing the hotwire directly from the battery to the first fuse at the handle bars(the ignition fuse), isn't that the same as connecting the hotwire to the ignition plug that connects to the removable ignition switch, or is that different, where that one might work and the other might not?
 

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I need to buy a new meter; can't find my old one.



If I am doing the hotwire directly from the battery to the first fuse at the handle bars(the ignition fuse), isn't that the same as connecting the hotwire to the ignition plug that connects to the removable ignition switch, or is that different, where that one might work and the other might not?


I don't know if one method is better than the other.



When you say the bike is dead, do you mean that you have no lights, horn, etc. Nothing electrical works?



You will have to get a multimeter(cheap at Harbor Freight), or at least a test light.



If your battery has power and you have that hot wire hooked up(and the fuses are good) I think you should have power everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't know if one method is better than the other.



When you say the bike is dead, do you mean that you have no lights, horn, etc. Nothing electrical works?



You will have to get a multimeter(cheap at Harbor Freight), or at least a test light.



If your battery has power and you have that hot wire hooked up(and the fuses are good) I think you should have power everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes that is what I am saying, no electrical at all;I have a harbor freight down the street so I will go there in the morning; so even if I remove the old ignition switch, or it is turned off, if all the fuses on the handle bars are good(all four)and I do the direct hot wire from the battery to the number one fuse on the handle bars, I should have power everywhere?
 
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