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Discussion Starter #1
Been a while since I visited the site. I’m close to finishing this latest experiment up. Put the Danmotto Nano into the old tach housing so I could keep the look and use the temp gauge. Have to hook up the speedo, wrap a wire around a spark plug wire for the tach and it looks like find a better ground on the frame so the turn indicators blink. They did blink right away when hooked up but don’t now. I’m pretty sure I did not mix up the running lights/indicators, though I make lots of mistakes. I’ll work the ground better and open to suggestions on the wiring. Also can I somehow connect the tach wire to a pin on the CDI or a coil? Will I need some sort of resistance to get an accurate reading? Stay safe, strong and well CXers.
 

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Spliced the RPM wire into the pink wire from the CDI to the right coil. Tach seems to work. Added another cheap tach gauged I had and wrapped that around the right spark plug. Numbers seem to match. Affixed that second tach to the fuse cover up top and front. I switched out the flash relay for a LED flash relay. I don’t have LED lights except for the ones in the dan moto Nano. The rear indicators now work very well, the front blink very dimly. Additionally on the nano gauge both indicator lights stay on as if telling me the running lights are working... they blink correctly when switched to wink on to either side. Cheap indicator lights or more likely I accidentally switched some wires. I’ll work to bring it up to temp to see if the old temp needle moves. Maybe get out for a ride this week. Stay safe, well and positive.
 

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The LED indicators on your new instrument shouldn't make any difference to the flasher if you still have incandescent bulbs in the actual signals.

What signals are you using? The fronts don't look original - are they 2 wire or 3 wire (single filament or double)?

Here's some basic info about how the signals work on these bikes:
1) The original front turn signals on these bikes (& most Hondas of the same era) function as both running lights and turn signals. They have the same dual filament type 1157 bulbs that are used in the tail/brake light. The lower power filaments are used as marker lights so they are on normally. When you switch a turn signal on the low filament in that bulb is turned off and the high power filament flashes so that you have BRIGHT-OFF-BRIGHT-OFF (if the low filament was left on you would have BRIGHT-DIM-BRIGHT-DIM).
Amber marker lights are only allowed at the front of a vehicle so the rear turn signals do not have marker lights.
2) Turn signal flashers generally need a certain amount of current flowing through them to make them switch on & off and that is usually more than one bulb draws.
3) All electrical circuits must be connected to both sides of power to work. If you connect a light bulb to the battery's + terminal (either directly or through the bike's wiring & switches) it won't light unless there is a path for current to get back to the battery's negative terminal.
4) Grounding to the bike's frame is not very reliable and grounding to the forks or triple clamp will require current to pass through the steering head bearings which can cause them to fail prematurely due to sparks happening inside them. The ground connection must always connect to a green wire in the wiring harness.
5) The filaments inside an 1157 bulb are connected so that one side of each goes to its own contact on the end of the base and the other side of both are connected together to the metal shell, which is supposed to be connected to ground.
 

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Thank you Sidecar Bob. And thanks for your colored wiring pdf guide from years back. My copy is covered with grease, oil, dirt and paint. Valuable resource. Cheap after market indicators. Same 12v/23 8w bulb but smaller than 1157. I did put in the 1157 in the aftermarket and it blinked in the same soft dim manner. Will take the advice and move the ground from the frame to a green wire and report back. Hopefully that is the issue. The after market indicators have 3 wires. One red, one black and one black with white stripe. Black to ground. Red to orange on left. Red to light blue right. Corresponding running lights: black with white to orange/white and black with white to light blue/white... I’ll keep fiddling step by step. Much appreciated. Stay well CXers.
 

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I'm not sure if you have the front signals connected correctly. What I'd start with (after fixing the ground connection) is disconnecting one of them completely and removing the bulb, then use an ohmmeter to figure out which one is actually connected to the common connection in the socket (for bulbs like the 1157 this is the metal shell). Once you know which is ground connect it, put the bulb back in and touch the other wires to a live wire (orange/white or light blue/white with the key on and the signals off will do) to determine which is the bright filament (turn signal) and which is the dim (marker light).

BTW: The wires for the right turn signal and marker light are light blue and light blue/white. The blue wire is for the high beam and the blue/white is the power wire to the high/low switch.

I'm not sure which PDF you mean. All of the wiring drawings are Jpegs, as is the Honda Wire Color Chart (if you don't have that one look in the Wiki).
 

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Success! The black with white wire on the after market indicators is ground. Black wire from after market is running light. Wow had me bumfuzzled for a long time. To me this is as crazy as black for hot on Honda’s. Used the old google search plus “cx500 forum” with terms like wires, turn signals, running lights. Found a thread with similar issues. Black with white is sometimes ground... Thanks for the help as it pointed me in the right directions and confirmed my thinking. Keep leaning forward!
 

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I'm not sure if you have the front signals connected correctly. What I'd start with (after fixing the ground connection) is disconnecting one of them completely and removing the bulb, then use an ohmmeter to figure out which one is actually connected to the common connection in the socket (for bulbs like the 1157 this is the metal shell). Once you know which is ground connect it, put the bulb back in and touch the other wires to a live wire (orange/white or light blue/white with the key on and the signals off will do) to determine which is the bright filament (turn signal) and which is the dim (marker light).

BTW: The wires for the right turn signal and marker light are light blue and light blue/white. The blue wire is for the high beam and the blue/white is the power wire to the high/low switch.

I'm not sure which PDF you mean. All of the wiring drawings are Jpegs, as is the Honda Wire Color Chart (if you don't have that one look in the Wiki).
Yep jpeg. Thank ye again kind sir!
 

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This is a great mod. Good job, Steve!

Randall

P.S. I just saw that you're in Duluth. I spent four or five years there. Beautiful place. I need to get up there on a bike some time.
 

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Thank ye Randall. The mod is working out. Road worthy with a couple more hours of tightening it up. Duluth is a cool place as you know. 15 degrees (f) this morning. Skied what probably was my last run this year on Saturday... hiked up then skied down a local ski hill. There is a really nice road to get some turns in on a motorbike that runs thru Jay Cooke Park. When ye can ye should. Past summers I’d do a therapy ride most every Saturday early in the morning... then stop at one of a few breakfast places in some of the smaller towns around here. Hope that breakfast part can happen again...in due time. Checked the temp gauge and it works. I also replaced the headlight bucket which is a smaller mixing bowl than larger mixing bowl I had on before. Next project: converting a 1976 Dodge Travel Craft Motorhome with a 440 and dual glass packs to run off propane. I did get pretty good at learning to adjust a Thermoquad carb and even was able to get 8.8 miles per gallon driving with a heavy foot. Was able to get an Impco propane set up that was used up on the iron range mines. The companies used to use propane on their small block Chevy engines. Engines ran cleaner and drove forever. They even just used to let them constantly run. Seen a few folks run the same set up in larger engines. Looks like I’ll have the time to do this for the next current while. Stay safe, cool, well and kind CXers.
 

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Propane really does run cleaner. When I had to replace the engine in a propane powered Dodge bus/van my wife had with a used engine I swapped in a couple of the really clean looking plugs from the old engine in place of the sooty ones that came in the "new" one while we were figuring out that the distributor needed to be turned 180 degrees. She ended up running it with the mixed plugs for about 100 Km before I installed a new set of the correct ones (can't remember whether they were hotter or cooler than for gasoline) and when those sooty ones came out they were clean & shiny as new.
The only thing with propane (other than finding places that sell auto propane) is that you have to change the oil strictly by mileage and not what it looks like because it will break down long before it turns dark.
 

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4179E4AD-C213-4B72-9BF3-36C13323DFA2.jpeg
This where I am at after about ten years of shade tree monkeying around with it. Like me looks okay from 12 feet/3 meters. Thanks for all the expertise on the site. Stay well CXers and GLers too.
 

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