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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, as of yesterday - I had ALL electrical working perfectly. Did some repositioning of the wire (took nothing apart, only relocated and tidied them up) Like an idiot, I wired up the battery wrong (backwards) saw smoke pouring out of the wiring "nest"



Everything is in tact, everything is still working



EXCEPT...



The rear blinkers work in unison now. WTF. If I click on the left blinker, they both light up, vice versa...



disconnect the left blinker. Turn on "LEFT", and the right one blinks. Same the other way too. Apparently, something melted and the hots are touching somewhere. There's a small electrical box near the seat, built into the frame. Could the problem be in there? I checked all the wires for the blinkers, they seem ok. Any help (quick) would be great...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
actually, upon further inspection. Even the front blinkers are kind of screwed up now also. Either selection, the non-selected turn signal's light blinks a little. The brake light is blinking lightly too.



Is it possible I fried my flasher relay?
 

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You surely fried something......I'd get a new flasher unit, cheap at an auto parts place. I'd also comb all the wires again just for good measure. Get out your volt/ohmmeter and do some tracing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i hate tracing wires! I guess I'll try with a new flasher unit. It still click, and blinks, but I hope/think that it's screwed up now.



There is no flasher fuse, right? I mean, the only fuses are for other stuff (at handlebars)
 

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Double check the grounds. Especially the one inside the headlight bucket. A bad ground can and will cause all sorts of weird circuit problems. And a lot of them don't make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Double check the grounds. Especially the one inside the headlight bucket. A bad ground can and will cause all sorts of weird circuit problems. And a lot of them don't make sense.


im hoping it's not a wiring issue. I put in about 15-20 hours on the wiring. Sucks so bad.



Flasher units are a law unto themselves so it's quite possible you have fried it.They are cheap form auto stores.You can get electronic ones now for use with LED indicators and they also work with normal bulbs so maybe time to invest in an electronic one for the future




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CEC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


I hope so. I think the one I fried was electronic, got it from auto zone. I'll head out there tomorrow, and keep my fingers crossed until then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
damn it. I got a new flasher relay. Still doing it. I disconnected the back blinkers. For some reason, when a blinker is "on", the other sort of gets brighter (almost flashes) each time it's blinking.

is this a battery problem? I checked all the wires, they are fine. I am really frustrated with this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Checked the wires again, in fact, unraveled them all the way from the front ...to the back.



I remember reading once that a low battery might cause similar issues, can SOMEONE please confirm this? Even testing JUSt the front 2 blinkers, if "LEFT" is on, the left blinker blinks (like it should) but the right blinks slightly also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so, what would cause both back blinkers to blink in unison? Something melted and there's wire touching wire? that would be my guess, but I've checked everything.



Also, what was the point/purpose behind dual filament bulbs up in the front? When these blink, the turn off and on, not brighter and normal.
 

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The purpose of the dual filament bulbs are is that they are both a turn signal and running light combined. There should be a completely separate circuit for the running lights. They should come on also when the key is turned on. Are you sure you have the 1157 bulb in those. I don't think you can put a single filament bulb in those sockets unless you force something. The bayonets are at a different level. But if you did, I suppose it would be possible to bridge the two contact in the socket and cause all sorts of interesting things to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The purpose of the dual filament bulbs are is that they are both a turn signal and running light combined. There should be a completely separate circuit for the running lights. They should come on also when the key is turned on. Are you sure you have the 1157 bulb in those. I don't think you can put a single filament bulb in those sockets unless you force something. The bayonets are at a different level. But if you did, I suppose it would be possible to bridge the two contact in the socket and cause all sorts of interesting things to happen.


well, to begin with these turn signals aren't stock. I got them off ebay, bullet style (small) with bulbs, not LEDs.



i know (offhand) that there are 2 light blue wires and 2 orange wires up there. And a green (ground) no matter the combination, I am still having this new problem. Which, is leading me to believe there's something problematic down the line, or they've always done this and I haven't noticed. I am thinking if nothing's wrong with my wires, that I might look into resistors, or something...





here's a pic of them :



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you hooked the battery up backwards you could have done a number of things. I wonder if that would effect the reg/rectifier or the starter relay or anything else. :/


Could be the rectifier, any way to test it?

what is the cylindrical thing which goes right to the hot on the batt? Looks like the flasher relay?

And the starter relay...where is that?
 

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The "the cylindrical thing which goes right to the hot on the batt" is the starter relay. The reg/rectifier is the size of a box of cigarettes with cooling fins and 5 wires or so going into it.

Are you sure you did not mix up some ground wires? Sometimes there is a green/yellow park light wire that gets mixed up with the regular green ground wires.

Might give you that kind of problem. Make sure that all your ground wires from the flashers are going to proper ground. If they do not find proper ground, they may try to make it thorugh another bulb and give dim results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The "the cylindrical thing which goes right to the hot on the batt" is the starter relay. The reg/rectifier is the size of a box of cigarettes with cooling fins and 5 wires or so going into it.

Are you sure you did not mix up some ground wires? Sometimes there is a green/yellow park light wire that gets mixed up with the regular green ground wires.

Might give you that kind of problem. Make sure that all your ground wires from the flashers are going to proper ground. If they do not find proper ground, they may try to make it thorugh another bulb and give dim results.


thanks. I will fool around with the grounds tomorrow. Would a bad rectifier cause any odd problems like this if I fried it? what exactly does the rectifier do, anyway?
 

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The regulator/rectifier manages the output from the stator, any excess power generated by the stator gets offed as heat by the rectifier. It keeps a steady voltage going to charge the battery, and run the rest of the electrics, and if there is more than needed, it bleeds it with heat transfer. If it is toasted, so will many other things. It is not common that they go bad, from what I've read, but that is not meaning you can't ruin one.



I'm going by what I have read on here, so take it with a grain of salt. And my memory sometimes is like crappy swedish cheese.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cool. so is it likely the symptoms I am having are the result of a bad / fried rectifier? Is there a way to test the rectifier before buying a new one, and finding out the problem still exists?
 

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I don't have one, and I'll have to defer to the other folks on the test procedures. I think there is a post or two on here about it. Sure wish I could help more.
 
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