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As far as being intimidating, I always find it easier if I do the disassembly, allows me to take notes and pictures,
. That being said,

1) get a manual if u do not have one, they r quite good. Downloadable from this site or wiki
2) the book:
How to restore Honda CX500 & CX650 –YOUR step-by-step colour illustrated guide to complete restoration
By Ricky Burns

is good. While not specific to the turbo, there r similarities. The book is detailed and shows colored photos.

3). Check out youtube. Search for cx500 engine rebuild
Ok so i’m waiting on my set of pistons to arrive. Another thing I saw after going through the parts yesterday, is my speed sensor looks in a rough condition besides from being very dirty, the small plastic housings is cracked and over it doesn’t look good, is there a way to test the speed sensor before trying to source a new one? View attachment 204653
The sensors can be replaced with new ones and you should be able 2 rclean up the bracket and other parts, this is documented on the forum. Search for “LX579” and you should find information on how to do this, as you rebuild the bike, you will be putting in a new mechanical seal. That will prevent coolant from leaking into the compartment and causing this. You can test the sensors by doing a resistance check. In any event, it is recommend to replace them. The sensors are not that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanx for the info Johnste, yes I am definitely going to replace the mechanical seal. I will go and check if I can source the ‘lx579’ replacement as well as the pb sensor which I read is replaced by a Suzuki sensor as the best match
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So my pistons arrived today, can’t wait to get home and have a look at them. I was wondering if anyone here ever had a go on rebuilding the turbo themselves? I’ve only seen post where they send it in for recon? Is it difficult to source seals for these turbo’s?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Does anyone have a detailed pictures of the ignitions inner workings, mine is missing the small copper plates that fit onto the white plastic thing(excuse my illiteracy🙈)and I want to see if I can maybe fabricate my own?

On the turbo side I couldn’t find anyone locally able to help me with the turbo so im gonna give it a good clean and install as is, correct me if i’m wrong but from what I read on the forum is if the vanes doesn’t touch the housing when checking clearance I should be good to go, and also as long as there is not axial float
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Also cleaned up everything nicely
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Discussion Starter #26
Ok so I took the turbo apart and it looks like there is alot of oil leaking into the exhaust side, I’m still looking for someone to help me rebuild and balance the turbo, I was just curious, has anyone fitted a replacement turbo with more part availability and the same curve specs as the vg1?
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Thanx for all the advice, I am also not an expert but with all you clever people here I don’t have to be😅 i’ve taken a measurement on the piston that has no damage on it, it measures 77.94(10mm from the bottom of the skirt) which I believe to be in specs, the set I can get measures at 77.94 and 77.95, so their still good. I have a new set of rings that came with the project so I put them in the sleeves(about 10mm from the top and 60mm) and took a ring gap measurement which was 0.4 at both points.. that is 0.05 over spec, I still have to take the block for measurement and hopefully it’s not out of spec and save me the trouble of ordering oversize pistons and sending the block for a rebore, i’ve also measured the piston to sleeve clearance which is 0.10(*after posting this I realized that its not just as easy as sticking a fueler gauge between the piston and sleeve, I need the exact bore id to work out the piston to sleeve clearance, thanx to watching some videos posted by ‘the odontologist’) . The odo is at 64k km.
When installing the rings, make sure you do not put them in upside down. May sound strange, but I have read that some rings have a taper and are meant to be put in a certain way. Just sharing some info that I read.. Also, you may know this or it may be obvious, but the ring end gaps should be 120 degrees apart on each ring. do not line up the ring end gaps.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
When installing the rings, make sure you do not put them in upside down. May sound strange, but I have read that some rings have a taper and are meant to be put in a certain way. Just sharing some info that I read.. Also, you may know this or it may be obvious, but the ring end gaps should be 120 degrees apart on each ring. do not line up the ring end gaps.
Thanx John, yes I think they are marked to indicate the top side of the rings, i’ve seen a good series of videos on youtube where the ‘ondontoligist’ strips down and rebuilds a cx500 video, I got alot of tips and tricks, spend a whole Saturday watchings his videos😁
 

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Ok so i’m waiting on my set of pistons to arrive. Another thing I saw after going through the parts yesterday, is my speed sensor looks in a rough condition besides from being very dirty, the small plastic housings is cracked and over it doesn’t look good, is there a way to test the speed sensor before trying to source a new one? View attachment 204653
You should be able to clean this up and install new sensors This should be one of your easier tasks, LOL.

1) carefully disassemble
a) when removing the magnets, I recommend to slide them off the bracket carefully versus lifting or prying up. They are subject to break in half, Ask me how I know, LOL. I was able to find a replacement magnet off of a Honda Goldwing. For that matter, you can search eBay under Goldwing's. There was a year or two where they used the identical sensor bracket and sensors. They tended to stay clean on the Goldwing's. I think a Goldwing around 1975/1976 was the year that used these, but not sure.
2) purchase some LX-579 sensors off eBay or your favorite supplier. They are relatively cheap. This link below will point you to a couple of possible sources other members have used:

lx579 part source ---------------- > Note, if none of these sources are still active, you should be able to find a different one on eBay.

3) Search the forum for "LX-579" or "SPEED SENSOR" you should get a few hits. one of these will have the instructions on performing the upgrade. Pay attention to the polarity of the original sensors and connect the new ones as described in order to keep polarity correct. cant find the exact post I am looking for but here is some that may help:

LX579 Sensors are not created Equal
Cam shaft sensor (speed sensor) => broken magnet
Where is the HOW TO - SPEED SENSOR UPGRADE info

See how well the bracket cleans up in solvent If not good enough, you can always sand it down and coat with a suitable protective coating. I have been looking into doing some basic ZINC plating at home, does not seem that hard to do.

hope this info helps

John
 
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Discussion Starter #30
You should be able to clean this up and install new sensors This should be one of your easier tasks, LOL.

1) carefully disassemble
a) when removing the magnets, I recommend to slide them off the bracket carefully versus lifting or prying up. They are subject to break in half, Ask me how I know, LOL. I was able to find a replacement magnet off of a Honda Goldwing. For that matter, you can search eBay under Goldwing's. There was a year or two where they used the identical sensor bracket and sensors. They tended to stay clean on the Goldwing's. I think a Goldwing around 1975/1976 was the year that used these, but not sure.
2) purchase some LX-579 sensors off eBay or your favorite supplier. They are relatively cheap. This link below will point you to a couple of possible sources other members have used:

lx579 part source ---------------- > Note, if none of these sources are still active, you should be able to find a different one on eBay.

3) Search the forum for "LX-579" or "SPEED SENSOR" you should get a few hits. one of these will have the instructions on performing the upgrade. Pay attention to the polarity of the original sensors and connect the new ones as described in order to keep polarity correct. cant find the exact post I am looking for but here is some that may help:

LX579 Sensors are not created Equal
Cam shaft sensor (speed sensor) => broken magnet
Where is the HOW TO - SPEED SENSOR UPGRADE info

See how well the bracket cleans up in solvent If not good enough, you can always sand it down and coat with a suitable protective coating. I have been looking into doing some basic ZINC plating at home, does not seem that hard to do.

hope this info helps

John
Thanx for all the info John, I appreciatte it(y)(y)...I'm busy with a local supplier to see if he can source me the lx579 sensors, ive found part numbers for them which is as follows:
-Toyota Part Number: 19020 -16100
-Nippon Denso Part Number: ND 029020 - 0831.
Hopefully it wont be too much of a hassle to get them, i'll give the bracket a nice sand blast and also check to maybe do a little bit of zinc plating.

There is a local guy that might be able to help me with a new ignition so I'm not too worried about that,

My biggest challenge is the turbo, the local shops in a 200km raduis has never even heard of the vg1 spec, I'm considering trying to source a different turbo with the same compressor map and a larger availability of spares, maybe garret gt06? Or a different spec IHI RHB5? Hoping someone here have successfully matched and fitted a more 'available' turbo?
 

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Thanx for all the info John, I appreciatte it(y)(y)...I'm busy with a local supplier to see if he can source me the lx579 sensors, ive found part numbers for them which is as follows:
-Toyota Part Number: 19020 -16100
-Nippon Denso Part Number: ND 029020 - 0831.
Hopefully it wont be too much of a hassle to get them, i'll give the bracket a nice sand blast and also check to maybe do a little bit of zinc plating.

There is a local guy that might be able to help me with a new ignition so I'm not too worried about that,

My biggest challenge is the turbo, the local shops in a 200km raduis has never even heard of the vg1 spec, I'm considering trying to source a different turbo with the same compressor map and a larger availability of spares, maybe garret gt06? Or a different spec IHI RHB5? Hoping someone here have successfully matched and fitted a more 'available' turbo?
Here is my 2 cents on the turbo.

1) It has been my observation that the majority of people who own cx turbos keep them original and do not change out the turbos. There are a couple people on the site that have done this, but they have made major mods to their engines for racing purposes or trying to set salt flat land speed records. Most CX turbo owners IMO, keep their bikes in original condition.

a) I am member of the Kawasaki 750 turbo forum and that bike has had several turbo mods documented Its funny cuz on that forum, Most owners of kawasaki 750 turbos Mod their bikes. There are very few kept in original condition. From that forum, i have observed some of the things you run into are i) modifying mounting scheme as flanges are different, ii) different boost profiles which lead to altering the CPU Map and or adding a power commander to compensate which also requires several dyno runs. iii) The Kawasaki turbo came from the factory with 12 PSI boost and people are adding turbos that are capable of boosting in the range of 15 to 26 PSI. Note that the CX500 Turbo already has a 19 PSI boost. v) having to add different fuel injectors as more boost needs more fuel.
b) unless you are doing some racing or high performance stuff, I think it would be best to stay with the IHI RB5 VH1 turbo, rebuild it and drop it in. This turbo is small and specially designed to minimize turbo lag on the cx turbos Unless you have the knowledge and are willing to invest time and money, I think this would be an expensive undertaking and time consuming undertaking for a casual owner.

2) Here is a thread that identifies a couple places for turbo repair for the CX Turbo

Turbo Rebuild Shop

I personally have used evergreen turbo for a couple Kawasaki turbo rebuilds, but I have not had them do a cx turbo for me. Should be no problem a they work on just about every turbo made for any application. This is my first GO TO choice. Charlie Evergreen runs a turbo rebuild business and has all the equipment to professionally do just about anything you want with a turbo stock or mod. They come back better than new. Super nice guy and is my first choice for any turbo related repair. Even if you do not go with him, he would provide you guidance and advice. He is a Kawasaki 750 turbo owner and very active on the Kawasaki forum. He has redone 750 turbos from all over the world and offers several performance options for the Kawasaki. Like I said, contact him, Tell him you know me JOHNSTE from the Kawasaki forum and follow his recommendations. He might be able to get you parts for a rebuild. I was working with him on a cx650 turbo rebuild, but have not sent it to him yet.

The other place used by others on the forum is G-POP SHOP. Others forum members have have used there services and have seen good info on them. I went online to their site and they still offer a rebuild kit for the IHI RB5 for $75. No options for compressor wheels, the kit is a stock kit. As said in link above, they will also do rebuild work and balancing. Of course, you have the extra shipping charges to deal with.

Maybe one of the above two sources can get you the parts and you can have somebody local do the turbo for you if you feel comfortable. If you get the rebuild kit and your turbo is rebuildable without any inlet or compressor wheel damage, any reputable turbo shop should be able to deal with it.

I know I have about 3 spare VG1 Turbos laying around in case yours is not rebuildable for some reason. I bought them and have not run them. They seem OK being they spin freely and have no side play and they look OK at least from the outside. Let me know if you are interested. Maybe someone else will chime in with a low mile spare. But if you can locate a rebuild kit, maybe it would be best and cheapest to have yours cleaned up and rebuild. I did not look that close, but from your pics, I did not see anything that would lead me to believe you could not get yours rebuilt.

I used to have a link or an article on how to rebuild the VG1, but have not been able to find that at this time. Again, hope this info helps.

I wish I had your energy and enthusiasm, I am retired now, and I still do not seem to find my way down to the shop to work on turbos. But then, I am getting ready for the snowmobile season, LOL

John
 
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Here is my 2 cents on the turbo.

1) It has been my observation that the majority of people who own cx turbos keep them original and do not change out the turbos. There are a couple people on the site that have done this, but they have made major mods to their engines for racing purposes or trying to set salt flat land speed records. Most CX turbo owners IMO, keep their bikes in original condition.

a) I am member of the Kawasaki 750 turbo forum and that bike has had several turbo mods documented Its funny cuz on that forum, Most owners of kawasaki 750 turbos Mod their bikes. There are very few kept in original condition. From that forum, i have observed some of the things you run into are i) modifying mounting scheme as flanges are different, ii) different boost profiles which lead to altering the CPU Map and or adding a power commander to compensate which also requires several dyno runs. iii) The Kawasaki turbo came from the factory with 12 PSI boost and people are adding turbos that are capable of boosting in the range of 15 to 26 PSI. Note that the CX500 Turbo already has a 19 PSI boost. v) having to add different fuel injectors as more boost needs more fuel.
b) unless you are doing some racing or high performance stuff, I think it would be best to stay with the IHI RB5 VH1 turbo, rebuild it and drop it in. This turbo is small and specially designed to minimize turbo lag on the cx turbos Unless you have the knowledge and are willing to invest time and money, I think this would be an expensive undertaking and time consuming undertaking for a casual owner.

2) Here is a thread that identifies a couple places for turbo repair for the CX Turbo

Turbo Rebuild Shop

I personally have used evergreen turbo for a couple Kawasaki turbo rebuilds, but I have not had them do a cx turbo for me. Should be no problem a they work on just about every turbo made for any application. This is my first GO TO choice. Charlie Evergreen runs a turbo rebuild business and has all the equipment to professionally do just about anything you want with a turbo stock or mod. They come back better than new. Super nice guy and is my first choice for any turbo related repair. Even if you do not go with him, he would provide you guidance and advice. He is a Kawasaki 750 turbo owner and very active on the Kawasaki forum. He has redone 750 turbos from all over the world and offers several performance options for the Kawasaki. Like I said, contact him, Tell him you know me JOHNSTE from the Kawasaki forum and follow his recommendations. He might be able to get you parts for a rebuild. I was working with him on a cx650 turbo rebuild, but have not sent it to him yet.

The other place used by others on the forum is G-POP SHOP. Others forum members have have used there services and have seen good info on them. I went online to their site and they still offer a rebuild kit for the IHI RB5 for $75. No options for compressor wheels, the kit is a stock kit. As said in link above, they will also do rebuild work and balancing. Of course, you have the extra shipping charges to deal with.

Maybe one of the above two sources can get you the parts and you can have somebody local do the turbo for you if you feel comfortable. If you get the rebuild kit and your turbo is rebuildable without any inlet or compressor wheel damage, any reputable turbo shop should be able to deal with it.

I know I have about 3 spare VG1 Turbos laying around in case yours is not rebuildable for some reason. I bought them and have not run them. They seem OK being they spin freely and have no side play and they look OK at least from the outside. Let me know if you are interested. Maybe someone else will chime in with a low mile spare. But if you can locate a rebuild kit, maybe it would be best and cheapest to have yours cleaned up and rebuild. I did not look that close, but from your pics, I did not see anything that would lead me to believe you could not get yours rebuilt.

I used to have a link or an article on how to rebuild the VG1, but have not been able to find that at this time. Again, hope this info helps.

I wish I had your energy and enthusiasm, I am retired now, and I still do not seem to find my way down to the shop to work on turbos. But then, I am getting ready for the snowmobile season, LOL

John
Thanx John, That is very valuable info to know and thanx for taking the time to type all of that. If I don't manage to find someone this side able to help I will order the kit from g-pop shop or the Turbo from you.

My wish is to keep the turbo standard, seeing that there isn't anything similar thats just a 'bolt-on' and will work with the standard ecu.

I always try and source locally first, but at the end when I can't find someone this side to help I will consider importing a turbo from you maybe with a service kit, that said what price are you looking at for the turbo? And do you have any idea what the import cost to South Africa, Gauteng will be?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Finally after getting most of my parts and having some time this week I have started assembling the motor, still trying to source the lx579 sensors though, but good progress is being made
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Nice job.
Before you put the block in the frame check if all gears are working properly. Save you a lot of work and stress.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Nice job.
Before you put the block in the frame check if all gears are working properly. Save you a lot of work and stress.
Thanx Dutch, I did check the gears, first time around it was a bit stiff because I inserted one small gear with a slight recession the wrong way around, that made all the difference, gears are smooth, easy to turn by hand and engaging nicely now
 

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Discussion Starter #36
While busy on the motor today a storm hit, so couldn’t continue work, while waiting for it to pass I figured i’ll try and source some valve stem seals as that is one thing I forgot to order, after giving Honda a call they quoted me R170 for 1 seal, that is just ridiculous, was wondering if anyone ever matched a car valve stem seal to work on the cx? That will be my mission for tomorrow is going to the parts store and try and match some Seal that is more affordable
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While busy on the motor today a storm hit, so couldn’t continue work, while waiting for it to pass I figured i’ll try and source some valve stem seals as that is one thing I forgot to order, after giving Honda a call they quoted me R170 for 1 seal, that is just ridiculous, was wondering if anyone ever matched a car valve stem seal to work on the cx? That will be my mission for tomorrow is going to the parts store and try and match some Seal that is more affordable
This thread may be of interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Anyone here know how to braze? I thought I did but i’m having extreme difficulty fixing the crack on the exhaust manifold, i’ll post some pictures below of my very bad attempt to braze. I heat the parts to cherry red and as soon as I add filler the rods start ‘beading’, they don't want to flow, am I using the wrong rod? Should I use a specific rod for this application, my rods look like bronze rods, i’m no expert in brazing, just got this porta pak the other day. I have successfully brazed a small cracked washer with this set but no luck with this exhaust manifold
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Hi Phillip
Things are looking up for you by the looks of the pictures
Bracing is a fine Art and its all most like Gas welding.Recommitting that you take it to a welding shop and have them look at it
Also the manifold need's to be bolted in place for the repair to be done right
Not sure how things work in your part of the World when it come to welding shops.Here in Canada we have lots of shops that specialize in this kind of work

Looking at your Ignition Switch its in bad shape
I just received a aftermarket Ignition switch Brand is EMGO aftermarket bike parts.The switch looks close and has the long harness on it
And the mounting is correct with the steering lock .Only one thing missing is the Park light option (I have never parked my bike with parking lights on )
The Part number is EMGO 40-15840 can be found on Amazon,com look up the part number

For the Speed sensors
I"m waiting for 4 sensors to be delivered this coming week
Yes the part number is Like Johnste confirmed LX 579
I my self had to ask the question on here .Thanks for the info and confirmation
I ordered min from E bay and they came from POWER PRO AUTO PART'S they sell on E bay and they where like $13.00 US a pic
powerproautoparts on eBay

For the Engine project it's a tough thing to see on pictures what is good and whats bad
For my self I build a lot of New Engines and Hi Performance engines .We are in to drag racing and we do all our assembles of the Engines in House except the machining of the cylinder block and cylinder heads.I have all the tooling to measure the bore and pistons.
The only reason we don't do it .The cost to of the equipment is to big and we have lots of good machine shops here in town
Edmonton Alberta Canada has about 25 to 30 machine shop's

If I could recommend one little thing that will save you a lot of problems
Take the block to a machine shop to have the bores checked the proper way
Any machine shop can and will have the tooling to measure the bore and give a proper measurement
Time and effort well spend and cost saving in the long run

TLD
 

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I don't think you can braze that!
That part gets super hot and could crack again if you just braze it.
What Phillip said; take it to a welder and get him to tig or ark weld it.

Man, that's a lot of water!
 
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