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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
Finally had some time and installed the new mechanical seal using the engine in method. Just finished it, but will wait until tomorrow before I turn the engine.
Here are a few pictures.
Rubber boot separated from the new seal.
Product Rim Metal
Cleaning out the inside of the old seal after removal of rubber boot. Used a small screw driver and a bit of scotch brite.
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After final cleaning with brake cleaner - ready for rubber boot install.
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Parts used including new trust and copper washer.
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Boot installed.
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It is all bolted back together, just haven't filled coolant yet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #82 · (Edited)
Made a new pulser cover gasket from slightly thicker material and installed it while I had the carbs off - much easier to do.
Metal
Filled coolant this morning, warmed it up to bleed the coolant system. No leak from the weep hole, coolant pipe or cover so far:D. Hope it stays that way!

Thank you Shep...!

Now I am just down to the throttle cable until I can ride it again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Installed a $37 windshield today. Looks ok, but is going to need a couple additional mounting points I believe. The supplied plastic clamps allow for a lot of flex.
Anyway, I like it and hope it will make Highway riding a bit more enjoyable.
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I am adding a vintage style fender extender to the front fender. Made a rough cut steel part. Some final trimming and fit up will be required.
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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
Made attach brackets and pop riveted the brackets to the fender extension. The extension was bolted to the fender. Everything received primer and clear coat. Here are some pictures along the way and of the final result Pipe Gas Cylinder
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Discussion Starter · #88 · (Edited)
And here is a side view to the bike with fender extender. I also installed lower handlebars. The bike feels great with these bars and I might keep it that way.
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Cool.

What are those spike/nut type things on the guard inner?
These are temporary fasteners called cleco. They come in handy for all kinds of sheet metal work. Cleco's are mainly used in aircraft construction and are operated via cleco pliers. They come in different sizes and I highly recommend them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
The center seat spring is a bit weak and allows for too much seat deflection.
Planning on adding a set of seat springs like these to reduce seat movement.
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The seat is amazingly comfortable even in its current configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
I have added about 2000 miles to the bike with only minor issues so far. I really like it!
Modified the lower front fender braces to match the 1930's 40's look a bit better.
Fabricated these from bar stock aluminum. Turned out ok I think, given that I started with a stock Honda fender.
Here are a few pictures.
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Here it is in a side view with the new fender braces. I like the more angled down bracing.
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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
I didn't like the tool bag attach via leather straps to the luggage carrier. The straps would allow for a bit of movement and caused bag deformation as well.
Decided to find a simple way for a bolt on solution that is easy removable.
Here is what I started with - the strap on tool bags.
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Made a support arm from aluminum and bolted it to a bracket I had made earlier, hoping it would keep the bags from banging into the fender.
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Fabricated two aluminum support bars which are bolted to the inside of the tool bags and to the support arms coming of the luggage carrier.
Auto part Automotive exterior
Bags are now firm in shape and appear solidly attached without the straps.
And here is the finished product.
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Just stumbled on your thread. Made my night! Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Finally have some time to share a few pictures I made during the engine disassembly and reassembly on this project.
The engine had approximate 13500 miles as I started the project with roughly 7000 miles driven since I acquired the bike. I changed fluids regularly and adjusted valves and cam chain about every 2000 miles.
The carbs had been cleaned using Larry's book.
The motor developed an unidentified mechanical noise that concerned me. So, I decided to find out why - and completely disassembled the engine....
A couple hours later my garage floor looked like this.
By the way, the source of the noise was never identified. The motor runs smooth now for almost 2500 miles.
Auto part Groupset Bicycle part Engine Automotive engine part
 
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Discussion Starter · #97 · (Edited)
The following work was performed:

-complete disassembly,
-thorough cleaning of all parts using ultra sonic cleaner if possible,
-inspection and measuring of all components as per maintenance manual to the best of my abilities (equipment),
-honing of both cylinders,
-lapping of all valves,
-painting of engine case parts,
-assembly using assembly lube or engine oil on all components,

The following items were replaced while the motor was apart:

-all oil seals,
-all O-rings,
-valve stem seals,
-all gaskets (original Honda),
-oil pump chain,
-cam chain + tensioner +guide
-piston rings,
-piston pin clips,
-mechanical water pump seal,
-clutch springs (heavy duty),
-thermostate,
-alternator (aftermarket),
-starter clutch rollers and springs,

Findings:

-the engine cases inside and all internal components looked amazingly clean - almost new.
-cam chain, guide and tensioner needed replacement - some of the typical case wear was noted.
-everything measured within spec; however, rocker arm shafts showed visible wear - seems like there is a luck of lubrication between rocker arms and shafts (startup?)
-there was some corrosion on cooling components like water pipes, thermostat and housing, impeller and cam shaft at the water pump side,
-found nothing that could have explained the noise I noted before disassembly (I am far from being an expert),

Challenges along the way:

-crank removal, finally found Honda special tool online which made it easy,
-valve removal and installation, made a tool to compress springs from a socket and a C-clamp,
-gear box assembly; thought I took enough notes and photos during disassembly, found out that I didn't and the manual was of little help.
-assembly sequence in general, the manual isn't a real good guide for that,
-general confusion - this was my first total engine disassembly and "rebuild" project,

Conclusions:

-I never found the source of the noise,
-the motor runs so far for almost 2500 miles - still listening to every sound it makes...
-stay away from a total disassembly if you can!
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 · (Edited)
Crank removal using the original Honda special tool and a home made shaft.
View attachment 177237
Valve removal using home made tool from a C-clamp and a welded on socket.

Auto part Metal Nut Hardware accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
Prepping cylinder heads, sanding on a block of granite.
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Cleaning valves on brass wire brush.
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Lapping valves.
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New valve stem seals installed.
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Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Picture shows wear on upper rocker arm shafts (loaded side). Appears, there is insufficient lubrication between rocker arms and shaft.
Note, the X-shape cut oil grooves of the rocker arm bronze bushings were imprinted on the rocker arms.
Wonder if an additional oil hole drilled through the rocker arms would help.
Considered drilling such a hole for a while and finally decided, it is unlikely my "Engineering" would measure up to Honda's and decided to leave it alone.
I was not able to locate new shafts and used these again (visible wear - but measures to spec.).
View attachment 177251
Interestingly the lower rocker arm shafts showed a lot less visible wear.
Valve
 
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