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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I would, that is a lot of stress on the backend of the header.
Have one hanger supporting the muffler. Might go with a second clamp around the muffler hanging from a rod attached to a clamp around the lower frame tube.
 

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You should be able to remove the rear wheel without disturbing the exhaust now. It looks like with the short mufflers you would have needed to remove the left muffler or whole pipe to remove the rear axle.

But I think it looked better with the short ones.

I've seen a number of CXs built along the same lines as this one and only one of those have I liked. Yours is better than that one. It looks old but not wannabe harley.

I may build something like it one day. It has inspired me. But that would be a few builds away ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
You should be able to remove the rear wheel without disturbing the exhaust now. It looks like with the short mufflers you would have needed to remove the left muffler or whole pipe to remove the rear axle.

But I think it looked better with the short ones.

I've seen a number of CXs built along the same lines as this one and only one of those have I liked. Yours is better than that one. It looks old but not wannabe harley.

I may build something like it one day. It has inspired me. But that would be a few builds away ....
Thanks CXPHREAK!
Yes, being able to remove the rear wheel without pulling the exhaust off is a benefit.

I looked at the bike again and I can see your point about liking the short version. My taste leads me to a muffler somewhere between the short and the long version.

Both long mufflers were cut today to terminate at the rim tire intersection of the rear wheel. That seems to be how far the exhaust extended on a lot of vintage bikes.
The wheel axle will still be removable without additional disassembly. The entire assembly seems to be nicely balanced so that one muffler hanger should be sufficient.

I taped over the chrome, used a cutoff wheel and a sanding disk to finish the cut. Slotted the end of the pipes below the muffler clamp and painted with high temp exhaust header paint.
The chrome did not peel.
Cut, drilled, slotted and scuffed - ready for paint.
Automotive exterior Auto part Bumper Rim Muffler
Painted.
Automotive exterior Vehicle door Rim Bumper Auto part
Here is the result, the exhaust in it's final configuration.
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire
Also relocated the engine breather hose and filter from a low to a high position as shown in picture below. This should allow the oil to flow back in the motor versus collecting in the filter.
Murray pointed that out to me and suggested to move it below the seat. I will try this position below the tank, since there is a lot of empty space.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Engine Auto part Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
I can't believe what I just found looking around the bike after it had IDLE'd for about 2 min. The famous weep hole leak has made an appearance at my garage:(.
There were just a few drops which turned into dripping the next time I started the motor up.

The motor was completely apart and the mechanical seal was replaced. Not sure what went wrong. I did the same repair on my cafe racer and it is not leaking after 3 years.

Decided to drain the coolant, remove the carbs and intakes, water pipe and water pump cover hoping to find a loose impeller nut. Nope, nut was good.
Removed the impeller and all parts were there, didn't forget anything in assembly.
Here are the parts I removed - the ceramic disk doesn't look good for 400 miles on it. I did use dish soap on it during assembly.
Product Circle Auto part Grommet Button
 

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Hello flipper,
Did you "shep" the replacement seal or was it a full seal cup replacement?


Next time you go to backfire moto give me a call.

P.S spent a couple of hours last week with new forum member "denny" he's just 5-10 min north of you. Was helping him diagnose his ignition/ignitech problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Hello flipper,
Did you "shep" the replacement seal or was it a full seal cup replacement?


Next time you go to backfire moto give me a call.

P.S spent a couple of hours last week with new forum member "denny" he's just 5-10 min north of you. Was helping him diagnose his ignition/ignitech problem.
Hi Slim,
It was an engine out full seal replacement since I had the motor apart anyway. I will try the engine in method this time - just have to study up on it and find out which "silicone" to use.
Sure, will call you when I go back to Backfire Moto - this is usually a last minute decision due to my work schedule.
 

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I can't believe what I just found looking around the bike after it had IDLE'd for about 2 min. The famous weep hole leak has made an appearance at my garage:(.
There were just a few drops which turned into dripping the next time I started the motor up.

The motor was completely apart and the mechanical seal was replaced. Not sure what went wrong. I did the same repair on my cafe racer and it is not leaking after 3 years.

Decided to drain the coolant, remove the carbs and intakes, water pipe and water pump cover hoping to find a loose impeller nut. Nope, nut was good.
Removed the impeller and all parts were there, didn't forget anything in assembly.
Here are the parts I removed - the ceramic disk doesn't look good for 400 miles on it. I did use dish soap on it during assembly.
View attachment 123042
definitely something wrong there. Was this the motor with the damaged camshaft?
 

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that impeller surface under the polo mint is not clean enough

it still has ridges of crap on it when i blo w the picture up

they can make the polo mint sit at a angle and run wonky like this

i vapor blast all mine r glass bead them'

but you can sit a scrape away at them till its all shiny clean with a scotch brite pad and be good to go
 

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What does the polo mint look like after being cleaned with alcohol?

The discolouration may just be oil sling from assembly. They often come out looking dirty.

When first assembled were the polo mint and carbon face cleaned with alcohol and wiped with soap? Not doing this can induce leaks.

Depending on your difficulty getting a replacement seal you could try your luck with cleaning and refitment perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
that impeller surface under the polo mint is not clean enough

it still has ridges of crap on it when i blo w the picture up

they can make the polo mint sit at a angle and run wonky like this

i vapor blast all mine r glass bead them'

but you can sit a scrape away at them till its all shiny clean with a scotch brite pad and be good to go
Thanks Murray, scotch brite it is, thought I cleaned it before mounting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
What does the polo mint look like after being cleaned with alcohol?

The discolouration may just be oil sling from assembly. They often come out looking dirty.

When first assembled were the polo mint and carbon face cleaned with alcohol and wiped with soap? Not doing this can induce leaks.

Depending on your difficulty getting a replacement seal you could try your luck with cleaning and refitment perhaps.
Appears there was some rubbery compound stuck to the polo mint. It took some effort to get it cleaned with alcohol. Even after cleaning it is discolored and shows some mild wear marks.

I am pretty sure I cleaned it and lubed it with dish soap.

Replacement seal is on the way, I will try the engine in method.

Not sure if the seals are all the same, or if there are differences between manufacturers? I will attach the rubber part of one seal to the cup of another one, not knowing if they came from the same manufacturer.
Also, looking for the exact description of the permatex - silicone to use.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
is that polo mint the right way around ? or did you turn the wrong side out by accident

only one side of the white polo mint is supposed to go against the seal

this is what i use for the silicone

Permatex Water pump and thermostat RTV silicone gasket 22071 - Read Reviews on Permatex #22071
Thanks Murray, just ordered it.
Not sure about the orientation. The polo mint came in the rubber cup and I just installed it the way it came (rubber towards the impeller).
Looking at it now, both sides look about the same.
Side towards the seal:
Liqueur Bottle Liquid Drink
side towards the impeller:
Plastic Circle
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Appears, I had the polo mint mounted the correct way - the marked side (line) to the impeller.

Thanks Murray, CXPHREAK, SLIM for scratching your head to solve my problem. It is very helpful and highly appreciated!

Came home from work and my new OEM Honda throttle tube - ordered as per Murray was delivered. Not such a bad day after all.
 

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What throttle tube are you going to use?

Good luck with the seal replacement......I recently installed one and have a lot to do yet before being able to run the engine, hoping mine doesn't need a re-do....

Victor
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
What throttle tube are you going to use?

Good luck with the seal replacement......I recently installed one and have a lot to do yet before being able to run the engine, hoping mine doesn't need a re-do....

Victor
Thanks Victor,
It is part number 95014-51100 Honda part. This is a throttle tube for a single cable.
 

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Thanks....

Did you use CRK baffles in your stainless headers? Did you have to secure the baffles or do the muffler clamps hold them in place?

you do fantastic work, BTW.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 · (Edited)
Thanks....

Did you use CRK baffles in your stainless headers? Did you have to secure the baffles or do the muffler clamps hold them in place?

you do fantastic work, BTW.....
Thanks!
I used generic 8" eBay baffles. The baffles were just pressed into the back of the header pipes after a bit of grinding on the mating area of the baffles. They did fit tight.
 
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