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Weak spark on both cylinders on my 1983 CX500 with TI ignition. Bike will not start. Is it possible to install Ignitech on this bike?
 

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My Eurosport’s ti unit, sort of fell to bits. I put a new one in from wemoto, 2 new coils, iridium plugs and caps, and it’s a great bike now! I expect the one I replaced was 38 years old.
What do you expect!
 

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By "TI unit", do you mean the pickup plate at the advance rotor, or the two gray igniter boxes? I haven't heard of the solid state igniters going out very often.
The round thing in the rear cover with yellow wires coming out of it.
 

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The stator has very little to do with the ignition but if it isn't working right it can affect pretty much everything electrical, including the ignition.

CFM: As Randall said, check that the battery is being charged before you start replacing ignition parts. Weak spark on one side is likely to be something in the ignition but weak spark on both is more likely to be low system voltage which usually means either the battery or the alternator stator. Information on how to test them can be found in the Factory Shop Manual (see below).

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year to your signature so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 
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