yup checked it when i read about that issue on the forum here.. cleaned very good and made sure they are getting good contact . I did check for any power coming to the coils themselves and i found none when cranking so i suspect its elsewhere.
You seem to have checked most items I could think of. The one other thing I thought of is the coils are mounted to the frame under the tank. Under their hardware, the frame is unpainted - to supply a good ground between the frame and the coils. If this was either painted over, or corroded, you could be experiencing sparking issues.
Sounds very much like a CDI![]()
BTW What is your location? You may have a member here near you for an assist, like a
old but still working CDI from a replacement. Just a thought.
Rick
There are wires that come from the stator to the cdi,they plug into the CDI under the seat, 1 of the plugs has a blue wire and a white wire, if you unplug that plug and test the voltage coming from the stator when cranking the engine over you should have 80 or 90 volts on the white wire and 100 or so on the blue wire.
If you get substantially lower reading on the white wire(less than 60 volts) there may be a problem in the stator.
There is another plug under the seat that has 3 yellow wires, they come from the charging windings on the stator and plug into the regulator/rectifier, you can unplug that plug and try starting the bike. If the bike starts with that unplugged then there is probably a short to ground in one of the charging windings.
If there is nothing wrong with the stator, you can do a quick test on the cdi, there should be approx. 150 volts on the pink and yellow wires coming from the CDI to the coils when cranking the engine over.
There are more thorough tests for the stator but try the above first and let us know what the results are.
It does sound like the CDI is causing your problem,,it would be good if you could find one to try on your bike to be 100% certain before buying another though. Or you could try your CDI on a known runner to test it that way too.![]()
Did you try unplugging the kill switch? It is the black wire with a white stripe that plugs into the CDI.
Have you checked the voltage whilst cranking at the pink and yellow wires to ground?It should be around 150-200v DC.
Where did you get that checklist (web address)?
Just installed an Ignitech (compliments of Cobram), but still no spark. I really thought that I'd put my finger on it too.
Still getting very weak voltage from the CDI to the coils when cranking. The battery is pretty weak and likely needs replaced, but I'm jumping it off my truck. Even still, I'm only reading about 10volts off of the black wire from the ignition key that I spliced the red Ignitech wire into - could my trouble all stem from a weak battery even if I'm jumping it?
Any thoughts on how I might salvage this situation would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Did resistance test on the stator coil, but haven't checked voltage on it nor the p/u coil while cranking. I need to get my battery charger back from a buddy and see if I can get a good charge on it. I intend to continue jumping to check voltages so as to not run it down - mistake?
She's up!... sort of. Original CDI was at fault!
Ran through stator and coil tests again. Most of my values were on the high end of spec or just above. I was beginning to come to terms with the likelihood of an engine out scenario and then, on Cobram's advice, I decided to try jumping the bike with battery out in the event that a cell was shorted - I had mentioned that I was getting low voltage to the red wire on the ignitech. Battery out, the red wire was still reading very low. Digging through the posts I found Doward's description of how he used a double bullet connector to patch the red wire into the tail light wire in place of the little splicer the provide with the kit. Bingo! Double checked all my connections, gave it some choke and fired it up. Engine raced at full choke so I backed it way off. Idle is solid, but throttle response is choppy - this I attribute to the fact that I have my spare carbs on there and they're pretty buggy.
Tomorrow I'll run through my good set (they were leaking at the float bowl gasket - float level?) and get them ready to mount this weekend. Then new fluids and cleaning up the exhaust. Its still hitting the 90's here almost every day so i'm not so worried about summer getting away from me yet.
Ironically, most folks around here are complaining about the weather. I try to explain that it only feels unbearably hot if the only time you spend outside is walking from airconditioned house - airconditioned car - airconditioned office.
The red wire is only relevant if you're installing one of the ignitech CDI (new aftermarket). A used oem will plug in just like your old one. On the ignitech the red wire, I believe supplies power to the unit. You splice it in at the brake light bullet (black wire) located near the coil and kill switch connectors.
Good luck with your CDI swap - seems like there's a really good chance that you're in for some near-instant gratification.
I would try the other CDI again before you toss it.
There is no power from the kill switch, it grounds the CDI to stop the engine.
There may be a short in the kill switch wire. If there was a bad connection at the kill switch bullet connector it would be the same as having the wire unplugged, the bike would run but would not shut off when you turned the kill switch off.
or was it continuity i was talking about on the kill switch? i know i checked it and got a signal on and off when flipping that kill switch. have to look into that .. anyway heres whats going on now. got the bike to spark with that replacement CDI last night , left and right side was sparking .. then i re routed the CDI wire better reconnected and now the left side stopped sparking , right side sparks fine. swapped the right side pink wire to left side yellow coil wire and it sparks when connected that way but will not spark when connected to the correct yellow wire left side lead off the CDI .. so not sparking now on left side yellow lead wire coming off the CDI now. strange. going out now to try to trouble shoot it. redo the ground and check connections.
hope to get her started today.
UPDATE: ok just checked the voltage from the yellow CDI wire to coil and there is some voltage .. like 50 volts .. should be 150 ish .. sooo what i'm thinking now is this battery might not be putting out enough juice to fire the plug. I'll recharge it so i know i've got a good strong battery goin.
battery spec is around 190 200 CCA so maybe this is it? Does the battery assist in providing voltage to the CDI ? or does it all come from the stator? also this CDI i just picked up could be going out.
Bummer,I hope that CDI box is still okay.
Almost sounds as though the batt connections were reversed.
Might think about starting a new thread in the tech section.
If you're getting good spark then much of the electrical system is ok. That's very good news. The bike should run now, although there may be another issue keeping it from starting such as gummed up carbs, bad gas, clogged air filter, etc.
Since there are doubts about the regulator/rectifier, you can unplug it for testing. Obviously the charging system will not work but there will be one less variable to cause confusion while troubleshooting. You can always address it when everything else is working.
Are you certain the main fuse is installed correctly and is the proper value? With the battery hooked up backwards it should have blown quickly before any wiring was damaged.
The metal chain securing the battery sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Is the stock battery tray hardware missing? At the very least an insulating material should be used if there is any possibility of contacting one of the battery terminals - plastic cable ties, rope, whatever.
Any time a wire smokes there is a good possibility it has been damaged internally - the conductor may have fused open. This could result in an intermittent connection that could make or break under vibration. My preference would be to replace it.
If a wire has smoked or melted inside a wiring harness it's possible/probable that adjacent wires have had their insulation compromised. This can cause shorts, either hard or intermittent, that can be extremely hard to track down. The short could be buried deep inside the harness with no visible damage from the outside. In this case it may be best to find a replacement harness from ebay or a parts bike.
At this point, it would be advisable to clean up any wiring that appears questionable. Keep the regulator/rectifier completely unplugged. Try to get the bike running - since you have good spark, concentrate on non-electrical problems.
Finally, return to the charging system when it's running. If the wires are smoked on the regulator/rectifier my preference would be to replace it with a used one from ebay. Even after thirty years the Honda units are extremely reliable and I would not hesitate to install a used one.
You'll need a multimeter to properly assess and troubleshoot the charging system. See this writeup.
hey craig any luck on the bike running yet??
Least your getting it narrowed down! and glad things are turning out for the better. It is a great feeling once you get her running again after sitting for years. Good luck and keep us posted!
Swap the coils side to side and see if the "no spark" followes?
Or at least swap the plug caps? ...could be an intermittant fault in the resistor/aluminum rod/spring combo...