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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, in 1982 I walked into a local Honda dealer here in Michigan and saw the most amazing bike - I couldn't take my eyes off it. 20 minutes later I was an owner. Zero miles. I couldn't really afford it but I bought it anyway. I rode it 12 years and put 14k on it. Great memories. My wife became gravely ill in 1994 and I parked it unable to risk riding while raising my kids and managing our new challenges. There it sat until December of 2016 when I decided - it was time. I pulled the cover off it - and what a mess it was. tires/brakes/gone. Brake fluid drained onto my perfect tank - now ruined. Tank had fuel in it - ugh.
I took it out and power washed it in the driveway it was so bad. I had originally planned to fix it as I went - then I saw the coolant puddle from you know where - pump seal. OK, a triple bypass - couldn't be too bad. I'm an automotive engineer and former dealer tech. But the more I got into it, I decided - total restoration time.

So here is where I am at. I had to make some decisions - museum concours resto - or - daily driver with modern upgrades. Bikes were made to be ridden, so here goes with my current plans.

As you all know, parts for these take time to acquire and are not always inexpensive.

Turbo was overhauled, hot side was ceramic coated, cold side powder coated.
Injectors cleaned, flow checked and balanced.
Rotors remachined using a patented process - they are beautiful
Tires replaced - I used Pirelli Sport Demons
Race tech fork tubes! I was lucky to get a new set. Bought emulators and springs as well.
Repainted frame, installed new steering head bearings and races. They were junk from sitting.
Bought new decal set from Bdesigns - parts going out for restore soon. Clear over decals planned.
I have what I think are now all the engine gaskets, seals including the copper exhaust sets out there.
Bought a new monoshock from Hagon -very nice piece. Installed.
Swing arm rebuilt. reconditioned with new bearings and races installed.
New denso fuel pump ready to go in. Tank is resealed and came out well.

I will post a few pictures every few days. Every bolt gets polished, cleared before reinstall. It will take as long as it takes - but I am on a mission with this project :) More to come.

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Beautiful!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update 2/24/17

Today's progress. Polishing parts takes patience. Mother's polish is magical... P2245989.JPG P2245992.JPG P2245993.JPG
 

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Very nice, you've obviously paid attention to the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I have been an avid lurker for the last year. Anyone pondering rotor finishing, I used Truedisk here in Michigan and the results are amazing. Pricing reasonable as well.

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Update 2/25/17

Picture here of swing arm fully reconditioned. I used an Amazon Blind Pilot Bearings Slide Hammer Hole Bearing Gear Puller Removal Tool to pull the races. Worked perfect. Had to use the largest puller in the kit. I used the All Ballz kit which has fully sealed bearings as opposed to the OEM ones that are only sealed on the inside. This eliminates putting grease in the cavity per the FSM. Fit was perfect as was the seal install. Pushed new one in with my thumbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHTJVTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cleaning was a snap using a toothbrush and NAPA aluminum Brightener #1458 which has Phosphoric acid in it. For those of you USA owners, its a 5 star thumbs up. 7 bucks for a spray bottle and I doubt I used 10% of it.

Now the wheel. These are beautiful wheels and I always received comments on them when I was riding. But cleaning them is a total pain. I used Turtle Wax ICE spray very carefully with a micro fiber towel and they came out like new. Now painting the hub was tricky. These wheels were not designed to be dissasembled. My original paint was worn off and flaked. After 4 tries, I found a PERFECT match in a spray can. Krylon KSCS029 Short Cuts Aerosol Spray Paint, Gold Leaf, 3 Ounce from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GLHVIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only drawback is the small can. You can mist it on with careful taping and it resists runs very well. When I say perfect - its a better match than the original. I plan on using it on the front rotors and forks as well. I have about 8 hours of work into the rear wheel and I need a day off now to rest my fingers..
Note the old bearings - the unsealed OEM ones had some serious corrosion going on. This is a very simple operation if you have never done them. Pull the wheel, use the factory tool to spin out the retainer which also contains the seal. Using a large punch and hammer, slide the floating spacer aside which is trapped in between the two bearings and get onto the bearing for a clean hit. They pop right out. I used a driver for the front fork seal which was perfect for reseating the new ones. Just do not drive on the inner race - outer shoulder only.
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Uncanny, and inspirational! You sure know how to bring a bike back. You must have also taken a good many photos to help with the reassembly. Each part looks fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. Yes, took hundreds of pictures and a journal as well. I bagged them and numbered them with descriptions and pinned them to the overhead shelves in the pictures. Now I work the bag kits in reverse. This site has been a huge benefit. So much tribal knowledge! I hope to share what I may learn on this project.
 

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Thanks for sharing your story. Sorry to hear about your wife though. Please keep those pictures coming, all of us turbo guys like to see what others are doing. The brake rotors look great, who did the machine work?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rotors were refinished by a company here in Michigan called Truedisk. They specialize in bike rotors and offer cross drilling as well. Pretty simple process. They claim to take very little material off. I measured about 0.010 material removed. Its not done using a lathe but a blanch grind patented process specifically for stainless and heat treated rotors which generally warp on a lathe. They charge a flat $45 a pc and turn around was 2 days. Highly recommended!

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Discussion Starter #11
Update 2/26/17

Differential cleaned up and installed. Fresh fluid installed. The differential shield was stained beyond repair, so I pulled it and repainted it. After some clear coat, it matches the natural aluminum housing again.

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Kind words by all and TYVM!

I am leaving all the warning and safety decals OFF as well the "Honda" sticker on the rear fender that faces the license plate - I never cared for those and I really detest the multitude of fuel tank warning stickers. I feel they detract from what is a gorgeous design. I know they need to be there for legal sale, but now that its MINE - I'm going to build it to my own requirement - not a show judge I could care less about and will never meet. Only proven mods are going in and those are strictly limited to addressing chronic known issues identified in these forums. The tribal knowledge in these pages are beyond value and I respect that wisdom.

Chassis will be completed first, with engine the last element to be refurbished. Picture of my bag/label/numbering process shown. I used clear bags so I could see what is in them without digging about. I can see every fastener at a glance, reach up and pull the numbered bag down.

The original suspensions on these were subpar at best and the Hagen shock and Racetech emulators and springs along with the Pirelli Sport Demons in the oversize spec seem to be the hot setup. I can remember taking huge sweepers at 85 mph trying my best to pretend my turbo was "a sport bike" and I almost lost it more than once to a wallowing rear tail. At my current age, I doubt I will be trying that again, but nonetheless - that factory rear shock by Showa was nothing to write home about.

I am a cancer survivor of 15 years now and was just diagnosed with a very acute Psoriatic Arthritis which has ruined my middle finger on my left hand permanently. I have been practicing my clutching movements and think I can still shift OK, albeit painful. I have this premonition I should finish this project sooner than later so its game on! I love a challenge. When my fellow engineers found out I was restoring this particular "unicorn" motorcycle, they just raise their eyebrows saying, "good luck!" while they roll their eyes. "You will never find all the parts." "Why not go buy a new bike?" "That's OLD technology!" I am sure you have heard all of these. But to us owners, its the Holy Grail of motorcycles - and there will NEVER be a substitute. I have ridden dozens upon dozens of different bikes - and if I have to have only one - this is it for me.

Here is the decal kit by Bdesigns which is the most complete and authentic reproduction I could find. Very nice product. Link 1980's Honda Decals

I have new spark plug caps from Davis Silver Spares, and I will be running Iridium plugs - any suggestions on actual wires themselves? They appear to be 7mm low ohm, but I haven't measured them yet. Is this a bulk wire purchase and you make your own?

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Very nice work indeed. My eyes are wonky, but I had a hard time figuring out what set up that is for the rear brake? Obviously that's a rotor, but what type caliper is that? I couldn't see how it worked in the next to last pic of the rear set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is just the mounting bracket for the caliper. The caliper is next part to be overhauled :)
 

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Any special tricks to prep and paint the hub with the gold paint.
I have a Canadian 650T with silver wheels and forks. I much prefer the gold color. This may just be my next winters project.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just hit the hub with some wet/dry 600 sandpaper, wash and dry. Apply 3 thin coats of the gold paint. Wait 24 hrs and give it thin coat of clear. Awesome results!!
 
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