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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

My name is Michael and I recently acquired a 1980 CX500C. Looking to rebuild this into a café/brat build. Looking to document the process here and hopefully get some help from the community help me along.

I’ve been riding since 2011 with a cbr600f4i as my first bike. And have always been interested in doing up a custom ride. Last year my brother decided to get into it as well and that got me looking as well… I then discovered the cx500 with transverse V. Since then, I was drawn to it. I love how it hung from the frame and had a minimal look to it.

This will be a slow build as my time is limited while juggling a family with 2 kids. Also, I plan on doing things a bit backward. I would still like to ride the bike during the summer months so I’m going to tackle sections of the project in the offseason. I think by the end when I feel all my planned ideas are achieved, I would then so a full strip down and get everything property painted. Things such as the frame/engine/tank/wheels/etc

I'm gonna strat making plan and parts list that I'll need in the next few posts.







Michael
 

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Welcome to this Forum . It can also be called a safe building site, where these bikes and fellowship amongst it's riders can be well constructed. Don't know how many miles on the odometer, or if any major maintenance was done by previous owner, but it sure looks like it has been well looked after. Enjoy the project, I am sure we all will do so , with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@izak Thanks for the welcome and you are right, the previous owner took very good care of the bike. The odometer currently sits @ 41000 Kilometers. It's a bit on the high side, but it still runs great. Everything feels very solid. My next few steps are just to do a general maintenance on it. Going to do an oil change/spark plugs/air filter/valve adjustment/cam chain tension adjustments. Check over the brakes and control cables. Maybe even change out the wheel bearings. Basically, everything to make it is road worthy for my piece of mind.

@igor thanks for the inspiration. I'll circle back and note some ideas from your bike.

I have ordered all the tuneup parts and waiting for them to arrive before I start on this project.
 

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Welcome Cytogen and good luck with your project, I am sure you will enjoy it!

Its good that you start with a proper service and safety check...the rest will follow. Many okes, like myself will enjoy following your progress, so please show us..lol.

Quick tip: your pics are almost 4 Mb. You might want to reduce their size before posting. Maybe..around 1Mb or a little smaller even.

Enjoy the ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
@Speedster Thanks for the tip on the image size. I'm gonna try and find a better way to post pictures. I'm gonna try and use Google photos to see how well that works. It's too bad Photobucket did what they did...

The other day I rode the bike into work and, with my luck, I lost my clutch cable. The nub at the lever end decided to shear off. So I was left stranded and ended up taking a bus into work. Call around to shops in town and a new clutch cable was about 2-3 days out. So I decided to rummage through my junk drawers that night and found this;

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Took the bus back out the next day and manage to get it on with a lot of filing to make it short enuff to fit into the level. Got the job done and make it home.

So back the maintenance list and safety checks, I ended up ordering the following
-control cables
-iridium spark plugs
-air filter
-wheel bearings
-MC rebuild kit
-brake shoes (front brake were squeaking)
-gear oil.
-oil filter
-oil

They arrived today...

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Got the spark plugs swapped out and changed out the oil and filter. Everything looked pretty good. The bike seems to have been well maintained.

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Next thing on the list is going to be checking the cam chain and valve adjustments and the rest of the maintenance...
 

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Welcome to the forum, I'm a newbie here myself to the whole world of cx's and cafe builds. Good to see another member from BC too! best of luck with your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@smellyseamus, Thanks for the warm welcome. Also happy to see another BC'r on this forum. Looking forward to seeing what you do with your project. Are there a lot of CXs in your area?

Welp, this project is escalating pretty quickly... this showed up in the garage a few days ago...

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Got it for a pretty good deal locally and couldn't say no... It's a front end from a 2005 CBR1000rr. I'm hoping this will be a bolt on based on the research I have done on here. I'm just now in the process of planning the parts I need for the conversion. Some things to consider is that I'll have to lose the speedo cable so I need to find a work around for that before putting this on. I'll be looking a a different gauge system. After looking at the different options, this leads me to consdider replaing all the guages with an all-in-one that has speedo, tach, and watertemp.

Also looking at replacing the stock clip-ons on the CBR as they seem too short @ 9". As this will fit the stock controls from either the CBR or CX, I wanted to run clip-on mirrors as well as bar end signals. So far I'm looking at the Woodcraft clip-ons as they come with 12" bars and are adjustable in length.

The CBR front end I got included all the hand controls and for the clutch, it is hydraulic. So I'm looking into a conversion to hydraulic slave cylinder too. Perhaps something link this may work once I get the proper bore sizing compared to the CBR

1420440082_93790.jpg

So far here is my shopping list for this front end;

All Balls Steering Bearing with Seal - 99-3511-5 (Tapered)
All Balls Steering Bearing with Seal - 99-3512-5 (Tapered)
All Balls CBR Wheel Bearing and Seal Kit - 25-1378
Woodcraft 50mm clip-on (1.5-inch rise)
Brake/Clutch levers (did not come with front end)
50mm Headlight brackets
Headlight bucket (not sure what size)
Headlight
Throttle assembly (honda push/pull)
Grips
Clamp-on mirrors
Bar end signals


So far I'm getting a lot of inspiration from Chris Fielding's and Brooks Brat build.

Other things I need to consider is reloading the fuse box and rewiring the CBR controls to work with the CX.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Over the past few weeks, I have been looking at what parts I need from my list above and slowly sourcing it from various vendors. Most of which are coming from China. Anything relating to controls of the bike, I'm sourcing genuine parts to ensure full reliability. So far I have gotten the following;

50mm WoodCraft clip-ons

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48/49mm headlight brackets

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qQ9PwA0J66jSZFAq8YUc-3FbF7lTD-mJZdxOc_0z2PcjepeICNE2iyH6bmWc4gccEVOIrQ90pu58m623mExevkX0PaAOhssl.jpg

Aside from that, I finally found some time to get my hands dirty and started work on the bike. I should add that before I started, I knew I was going to dig into the carbs, so I went ahead and ordered an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning the carb. Just ordered on the weekend so hopefully, it'll be here in a week or so.

This is what I'm starting with;

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I had a hard time trying to figure out how to remove the carbs. I loosened all the rubber hose clamps, but there was just not enough fore/aft room to pull the carbs off the boots. I thought at one point I had to remove the airbox, but after some reading, the rubber intake manifolds should be removed first. So I took off the bolts from the manifold, twisted the manifold around about 90* and was able to pull off the carb.

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I did the same thing on the left side of the bike and had enough room to pull the carb forward to remove it from the airbox boots. Now I had to pull it out the left side of the bike but ended up having to loosen all the bolts holding the triangle shaped brace to make room to wiggle it out. No pictures of this, unfortunately, but I did take a few pics of the throttle cable assembly just as a reference point before removing them. Removed the choke cable as well.

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Discussion Starter #10
Now it's time to dig into the carbs!

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I've always had a bad time of stripping screws on carbs from past experiences. And with these being JIC with no JIC bits on hand, I decided to use my cordless drill set to screw mode with a very low torque setting. My thought behind this is that as drill clicked from over torque, it would act as a low impact driver. That coupled with hard downward pressure, I got all the screws off with no incident.

Most of the following pics are just for reference for myself. It does show the overall condition of the carb. there was definitely some gunk and debris in there.

Vaccuum slide
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Float bowl
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Float
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Jets
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Accelerator pump
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Air cutoff valve
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I noticed before I separated the carb bodies, there was a spring here and wasn't too sure how it would unwind during disassembly. So I held it in place with some fishing wire for the time being.
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Spring on the throttle shaft
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The other float bowls
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I got all the jets removed and now I'm thinking about how to remove the pressed in idle jet. I'm thinking I will go the route of drilling the upper portion to 2.5mm and tapping it with M3 Tap and using the M3 thread/washer/nut removal method. Gonna dig through the toolbox to see if I have all this available. if not, I'll have to wait for source this.

The rubber accel pump and air cutoff seem to still be in good shape... I'm debating if I should replace these.. Gonna look around to see how easily I can get these...

That'll be my next update... Until then...
 

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For the pressed in type this is the way to go, I have not had a failure or damaged jet using this set up. Picked up everything at my local hardware store.
4-40 TAP.jpg
 

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Oh how I wish I had seen this last week..................................
 

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That's problematic as pressed jets aren't available. And presumably used replacements themselves had to be pulled.

I pull them by Larrys method using a quality easy out and this has always worked for me.

But .... as this can be somewhat nerve wracking I have been considering changing to the threaded bolt method.

I really wouldn't have expected this to be an issue when the metering is controlled by the 18 thou drilling above the larger drilling ..... but carbs can be finnicky and small changes can have larger consequences than expected. I drill these to 18.5 for pods {allows a smaller low jet} and this will give a very rich idle without pods. {test bike has airbox}

The area tapped could be redrilled before being knocked back in?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks for all the replies and tips.

@slim I didn't even think about using a 4-40 thread, thanks for pics shows the tools needed. I do have that in the toolkit.

@cxphreak I was going to warm up the carb body with a torch prior to pulling, but your method may be less intrusive to the surrounding areas. I'll play it by ear when I get to it in the next few days.

@murrayf you raise a good point on the flow characteristics. The threads could very well affect flow. For the same reason, airhorn improves flow over a square lip on throttle bodies.

Now I'm torn about pulling it or not. As the bike ran very well, I did have a flat spot between 20-55% throttle, while in that flat spot the bike never made and power and felt like it was leaning out. For that very reason, I want to really get this carb cleaned out the best I can.

I'm still leaning toward pulling it... here is a thought. Comparing the threads between an M3 and 4-40 thread. The M3 has a finer thread. In my non-engineering side of my brain makes me think this would have less effect on the flow characteristics compared to a course 4-40.

Also, at a lesser risk of botching the carb due to a broken extractor. Going the route of "thread and pull" would have a better success rate and enable me to drill it out to compensate for leaner condition down the road.

Sorry, just thinking aloud...

Good news though, my US cleaner arrive today... gonna head out tomorrow to pick up some simple green. Will probably get to the cleaning this weekend.
 

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if you use the slim method to pull the jets i recommend you replace them

tapping the threads on the inlet of the jet will change its flow properties and might make the jet lean
This could be true ... However I have not seen any negatives from this method, it always works, and have never damaged a jet or carb body forcing me to look for expensive replacements. Pulling this way cleaning and reinstalling them doesn't seem to cause any tuning difficulties, nether does it appear to affect overall performance that I can tell (at least for my conservative riding style) I'm not to picky. Periodic spark plug inspections look normal.

I used "Larry's" extractor method previously, but have found the tap and pull to be simpler and more reliable and also once done, jet can be easily pulled and re-used over and over (within reason).
 
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