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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The bike has sat for two summers :(. I know this is a self inflicted problem. But here it is anyways.

It won’t crank. Pulled the plugs. Put a little oil in. It cranks but not very fast. Put one plug back in....won’t crank. Also it didn’t build oil pressure while cranking (the oil light did not go out).
So what should be done at this point?

Thanks
Menessis
 

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If you have a voltmeter check the voltage of your battery at rest and also while using the starter.
That will give you some idea of the condition of your battery.
Have you tried starting with a boost from another battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry I guess I should have clarified that. The battery that is in the bike is totally "sulfated". I think I have the term right. Anyways took a freshly charged car battery of the charger and jumped to the disconnected bike battery leads. Also used a piece of 14 ga. wire to go directly to the started with the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With the plugs out it will crank over. It doesn’t seem to turn over very fast. And then when I put one plug in it won’t push past the compression stroke.
It acts like a weak battery. But I’m using a fully charged car battery. I think I will try a different battery just to rule that out.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
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Check you ground connections.
The starter might need an overhaul, too. If its internal ground is burned badly enough, it will underperform.
 

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Is this the 650 as in your sig?
If so the starter motor could well be in urgent need of the earthing modification as it sounds like classic starter motor problems.

And the oil pressure light will only go out with a fair amount of continuous cranking at a good speed - if your engine is turning over as slowly as it seems then it`s probably not going to build enough oil pressure to extinguish the light.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Are you connecting the freshly charged battery across the old, dead one? If so, that could be your problem.....

And BTW: using 14ga wire between the battery and the starter motor will usually result in the wire getting hot enough to melt its insulation off in a few seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well look what I found. Looks like a mod done with a pop river? And it’s so loose I’m surprised it worked at all.
207737
 

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That, in effect is the starter earth mod, the idea was correct but that one was done badly...
Pop rivets are not suitable as the ally heads are made of a soft material which doesn`t last long before it starts to corrode and become loose just as you have found.
Tap to M3 and put a screw in there and it should be good to go.
See the threaded part of the brush plate with the screw missing? I usually use that one to fix it to the end cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didn't have what was needed to properly fix it right now. Put a rivet back in! Just temp. I'm not driving the bike at the moment. Just want to be able to start it up every once in a while.

So I tried real hard tocrank but wouldn't quit get it past the compression stroke. So then I pulled the truck around and boosted off that battery. Wasn't much better. I kept trying to get it past the compression stroke and then nothing. Must have popped a fuse on the switch side. I had to leave soon so I started the truck and put the jumpers direct to the starter. And that thing cranked like never before!
No now to get back to it and see what else I have done to it. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
So the relay may have bought it! When I press the start button the headlight goes dim. No relay click though.
I'll dig into it tomorrow
 

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The Start button has 2 sets of contacts so that it can turn the headlight off when the starter motor is running so that all of the battery's power is available for starting.

No click can mean a few things:
  • battery too weak to pull the solenoid hard enough for it to click
  • dirty Start button not sending power to the solenoid
  • transmission in gear or problem with neutral switch or the wire to it
  • other problem in the wiring (broken wire, unplugged connector &c)
  • solenoid's coil has failed (it happens but all of the others are more likely)
 

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put the jumpers direct to the starter. And that thing cranked like never before!
Original problem sounds like it was high resistance on the solenoid contacts, then.
That would of given the same symptoms of a tired starter motor, although at least you found the iffy earth job as that was a failure waiting to happen,....or more likely a combination of both.
 

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I started the truck and put the jumpers direct to the starter. And that thing cranked like never before!
Where did you connect the jumpers? One to ground somewhere and the positive to which terminal? Did the starer start turning as soon as you connected the jumper?
I'm not sure that you need a new solenoid.
 

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Throwing new parts at it is not the way to figure out what's wrong. Check all of the other stuff I mentioned before you buy a new solenoid. At very least make sure there is voltage on the coil of the solenoid.
 

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Why not ground the green/ black wire from the solenoid and see if it cranks?

If not feed 12 volts from the battery directly to the solenoid yellow/ red to rule out wiring or switching issues.
 
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