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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well here's how my 79 thats been sitting for 25 + yrs restore is going.....



I hooked up with Stan In TO who was extremely generous and sold me 2 parts bikes. Very knowledgable and friendly guy, thanks again for everything Stan. Ultrasonic on the way from HF. Also met Ironicnostalgia, hope those parts worked for you and you passed your test !



So after carting off the 2 bikes from Stan I cracked into my set of carbs that were totally gummed up. After much Simple Green soaking, carb spray and choice words I was able to free them up, disassemble and give em a good clean(removed all the rubber/plastic first). Used carb spray and CLR and air repeatedly. Everything got replaced, needle, main jets, diagrams, gaskets and screws etc. Floats were ok. Only thing that I didnt touch was the idle jet...I really dont want to have to take that appart at this point as my main objective is just to see if this honey will fire up and the rest of the carb seemed not to bad...famous last words?



So questions.....first off, the rear cover has been off for some time now and dust has gotten onto everything, cover and block. Also looks like a fair bit of gunk? in the lower channels of the block. How should I go about cleaning this? Simple Green? Carb or break cleaner? or just new oil filter and wipe it off? Also, I have a D & K gasket kit to use. I am thinking I may have to remove the rear cover after the "test". Should I use gasket seal? I say in a thread LM grease to be able to reuse the gasket. Also saw someone saying that they do not put gasket seal at all...? And what oil would you say I should use for the purpose of the test? And any other suggestions about this testing.....I am aware of the triple bypass and that will get done in good time, mech seal is on the way as we speak, chains will be down the road.



Thanks in advance guys !
 

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If it were me and not knowing what debris could have gotten into the engine I would get my Car power washer onto it and blast the hell out of every coolant way and oil-way and the whole engine block/Gearbox etc.I would also do the rear case but on fan,not jet.Then high pressure air blow out everything.

You cannot afford to leave any debris in there especially if any small metal things/swarf have gotten in.



My 2 cents.
 

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If it were me and not knowing what debris could have gotten into the engine I would get my Car power washer onto it and blast the hell out of every coolant way and oil-way and the whole engine block/Gearbox etc.I would also do the rear case but on fan,not jet.Then high pressure air blow out everything.

You cannot afford to leave any debris in there especially if any small metal things/swarf have gotten in.



My 2 cents.
agree,work the pressure washer into it,thats the first job i do when i open an engine....

its easy to get rid of water/moisture.......not quite as easy with solid debris
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok yes I was thinking that too but thought it mite be a no no. I can tap into the hot water and the washer can draw up cleanser/SoGreen, would that be ok/better keeping the "fan" noozle part in mind? Any suggestions on the D & K gasket and oil?



Thanks for chiming in so quick guys...
 

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I can't see a problem with the gasket set but you should source and buy a Water pump Oil seal that sits in the rear engine cover.These get brittle with age/none use and as soon as you refit the rear case they they trip you up and go allowing coolant into the oil hence that thread I posted.





Always be careful when presenting the rear case to the engine and don't allow the Cam shaft to ruin the seal.






They are the same for all CX/GL500s and part number 11 on my Parts fiche,



http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500a-1980england_model16465/partslist/E12.html



Part number 13 on here,



http://www.donandroys.com/fiche_sec...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1979&fveh=3397



Note:some of these on-line suppliers look as if they carry the stock but don't so you need to make sure whoever you get it off has it.



These people say they have it in stock,



http://ww.hondarestoration.com/photodetail.asp?hrPart=91202-283-013





These kind of spring loaded seals are always fitted with the spring side towards the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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This is the one I ordered from siriusconic here



http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=821



I figured this fell into the 27mm vs 28mm scenario and I was going to use the Shep method


That's not what I was referring to.If you look at the pictures it's the Called a Water Pump oil seal but is the engine side part of the water pump assembly.If your present,"Mechanical Seal" which is what you have bought is ok then leave it alone but it's good you have spare.



This is what you need,



http://ww.hondarestoration.com/photodetail.asp?hrPart=91202-283-013
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok just so I have it straight...you are saying that the oil seal on the cover\outter side is more of a concern. What I have is the Mechanical Seal and is on the engine side of the cover, inside the engine? also the white ring I have goes inside the back of the impeller..?
 

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ok just so I have it straight...you are saying that the oil seal on the cover\outter side is more of a concern. What I have is the Mechanical Seal and is on the engine side of the cover, inside the engine? also the white ring I have goes inside the back of the impeller..?


Yes.As stated they usually get destroyed by lack of use and go when you re-fit the rear case.Replace it.Your mechanical seal may well be needed at some point as they too can decay through lack of use but that can be done with the engine in the bike as per,





http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Mseal.html



Both parts in regular use can go well over 100,000 miles with no problems but die when the bikes have been stood for any length of time like a couple of years here and there.
 
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