[Garymga]

Today I put my wheels on in order to see the general lines I'm getting on the bike.
I have a 17" rear frankenwheel and a front end from a 954rr.
I bought the tank from a forum member, almost undented it but I made it fall tonight :/

It's starting to look like something, I'm planning to cut all the rear frame, keep the dual shocks but I want to purely make esthetic modifications with that rear.

 

[Garymga]

The frame is cut and I’m now working on the new rear..
Will keep this thread updated !

 

[Garymga]

Hi guys !

Hope everyone is fine, I had put my project on hold because of work but I’m back at it.
I bought some tools in order to make my rear subframe - a tube bender and a tube notcher.

I also bought 18ft of DOM steel tube 1-1/8 x 0.120 wall.

I started to bend some tube, it’s a bunch of angle to take in consideration. My model is the frame done by a Swedish member - Beltin - who did a great job keeping the dual shocks and designing great curves !

I will work on the subframe next weekend and keep you updated!

 

[Garymga]

Soooooo.... I knew I was throwing myself into something serious by redoing the rear subframe and I was not lying!

It was painful but at the end I’m pretty happy about the result, even with a tube notcher I was limited by a max angle I could cut the tube. I had to experiment with all of these angles. It is tack welded now, I have to work on the gussets for the shocks but I’m getting there !
Let me know what you think !

 

[keith in zulu In]

Just read through your build on such a dreary night. I see where your headed, but with your verticals located where they are, isn't there a major gap between the shocks and the frame? Wouldn't that be a problem? But good work man keep it up.

 

[Garymga]

Just read through your build on such a dreary night. I see where your headed, but with your verticals located where they are, isn't there a major gap between the shocks and the frame? Wouldn't that be a problem? But good work man keep it up.

Thank you ! Trying hard
If I understand clearly what you’re mentioning here are my thoughts. Right now the shocks are stocks - 12.5 inches. When I’m going to make the gussets for the shocks fixation I’m going to be lower than what you see right now.
The gussets are going to be kind of triangular at the junction of the tubes (horizontal and vertical). Plus I’m getting 13” new shocks so I should be fine.
Also you can see that I welded a plate to hold the arm to the frame and prevent any movements when I was calibrating everything.
Is this clear ?

 

[Garymga]

Got the book !!!
Exciting to get this old ones becoming new !
Thank you @LRCXed

 

[Garymga]

Following Larry’s advice I invested in an ultrasonic cleaner to get the carbs like new.
Wanted to test it in the shop before, so I cleaned my spray guns with it and it made miracles !!
I could not believe how great my parts came out !
I can’t wait for the carbs to go in there !
One of the best advice I had !!!! Invest in one !

 

[Garymga]

Hi everyone !

Working on the subframe I just wanted to share with you how the shock studs are made on the original frame.

When I’m reading threads on the forum, I notice that subjects around subrame/welding/safety raise questions and debates.

The following is not a breakthrough but it is interesting, when doing a rear subframe you have to think about shock studs and mounting them. The safety requires that you make yourself gussets where your studs go through and you weld each side before boxing them.

I’ve seen people using only a piece of 1/4 inch steel to support the studs - not here to tell if that’s appropriate but I’ve seen company selling kits like that..

Below is a picture of the stock frame cut where you can clearly see how the gusset is made.Surprisingly the rod that goes through is only 1/2 inch diameter and the thickness of the frame itself is maybe 3/32 - which is thin to me - when the tubing I used is 0.120.
I guess is to keep the structure of the frame flexible when forces are pressuring.

Now here is a picture of the shock studs I got from Cognito moto. It is very well made, the main difference is that the rod’s diameter that is going to go through my plates is 1 inch.

So with an appropriate welding I will not have concerns about the strength of my shock mounts !

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

The stock frame is a stamped box frame. The designers relied on the stamped form for strength, rather than thickness. Anything you could weld together will need thicker material to achieve an equal result.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

One advantage of the cogito stud design is the shoulder provides a weld backing at the outside gusset and allows for a larger plug weld on the inside gusset, and provides a spacer between the two.

 

[Garymga]

One advantage of the cogito stud design is the shoulder provides a weld backing at the outside gusset and allows for a larger plug weld on the inside gusset, and provides a spacer between the two.

Yes so far that’s the best I can find online ! And I’m happy with them !

 

[Garymga]

Hi everyone,

The built is not going as fast as I want but there is a crazy amount of work in the shop and I have to prioritize what’s bring income

Engine wise I decided to re open the rear engine in order to upgrade the stator to a G8 model. I’m getting rid of the CDI and going for a Rae San Hall effect 12v conversion with HD type coil.
I will rewire the entire bike and probably going for the Morty from NUUT as the brain. Already get a Mosfet from Murray and an Antigravity battery.

Such a cleaner look with less wire now !

Cleaned the carbs following Larry’s book, lost a piece in the accelerator pump but he saved me selling me a replacement cover.
I bought some nice K&N filter in order to let the babe breathe and rejet following the well known 90/120.

The subframe is now welded and shocks mounts in place, still have to clean some zome and fine tune but I’m getting there.
Next step is the electric tray and making my own seat. Trying to get the engine fire before spring !

 

[D-Fresh]

Morty from NUUT

You'll have to let us know how the brain works, I've not heard of that company before. How did you choose them? Nice build btw.

 

[Garymga]

You'll have to let us know how the brain works, I've not heard of that company before. How did you choose them? Nice build btw.

Thank you !
I learned about it through the Brickhousebuilt cx built. He has a very nice YouTube channel and is providing a lot of info.
Same than the Motogadget but half the price.

 

[Garymga]

Worked on fine tuning the subframe today and cutting an electronic tray. It’s not welded yet as I have to plan for the wiring and the seat set up.
But the bike’s lines I’m looking to reach are slowly showing up.

 

[Garymga]

Battery tray, electronic tray, solenoid and grommets are now part of the bike.
Working on a custom made fiberglass seat next.
Rae San V4 should show up in a week or so.
I’m still waiting for the Morty unit, rear gasket and water pump gasket to show up but USPS is insane.. they’re not in good shape.

 

[Garymga]

Some work has been done !

Rae San conversion 12V has been mounted on with a new G8 stator. I took the opportunity to adjust the valves doing the timing adjustment.

I mounted back the engine on the frame as well. I have to do all the final work before powder coating the frame, welded attachment for the HD style coil and a new reg/rec mosfet from Murray underneath the tank.
The rear tail is in the making, bought a locking system for the future seat. Electronic tray is slowly being set up..

Still a lot of things to do but I’m really enjoying the lines I had in my mind slowly becoming a reality.

 

[Tom76]

very Nice !
could you give me Some info about the rear shocks? Length , type,...
thanks
tom

 

[Garymga]

very Nice !
could you give me Some info about the rear shocks? Length , type,...
thanks
tom

Hi Tom,

Shocks are
YSS ECO Twin Shocks
Measurements: Length 330mm, Top 16x24mm, Bottom 16x24+10x24m

It’s 13” inches eye to eye, got them on Wemoto.
I believe it’s easier to get them in Europe.