Yes - I did this to my GL1100. It made a much neater job than tying to cut and trim the top edge.I used a very hot soldering iron , job took about an hour but no risk of cracking. After re-drilling mounting holes am very pleased with result. I can now see over the top of the screen instead of through the bloody thing , it crosses my eye-line otherwise.
I haven't cut any factory ones down, but I have made 4-5 for bikes and boats out of 1/4" Plexiglas. I tried cutting with a saber saw, even got a plastic blade and had problems with cracking while cutting. It was the unsupported areas when I was trying to cut from a 4x8 sheet that caused the worse problems.
After I got it down to a manageable size, the band saw did a great job cutting the curves without any cracking. Then sand down the edges with sandpaper. You want to get rid of all sharp indentations around the edge as that is a crack wanting to start. So sand the edges smooth. The same holds true on drilling holes. Unless you have a way to burnish or smooth out the edges, cracks will probably start from the holes. Even using spacers and rubber washers, and I still experienced some problems.
I also bent these to a curved shape and even put a reverse bend at the top edge on one. A heat gun works to heat the plexi, but it is very slow and you have to keep playing it around the surface to spread the heat. If not, you can blister it easily. I found the easiest way to bend it is in front of a gas radiant heater I have in the shop. The heater element is about 18" wide by 8" high. I just hold the plexi in front of the heater with leather gloves until I can feel it going soft. Then carefully add pressure to bend to the curve I want. Then hold it there until it cools a bit. Really pretty easy.
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