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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1978 CX500 has a cracked coolant overflow bottle. Bottle is cracked at the top. It still holds fluid up to the level but will it still function? Looks like it will be hard to change. Please tell me I don’t have to remove the engine.

Are they available NOS?
 

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My 1978 CX500 has a cracked coolant overflow bottle. Bottle is cracked at the top. It still holds fluid up to the level but will it still function? Looks like it will be hard to change. Please tell me I don’t have to remove the engine.

Are they available NOS?
Pic?
Its not pressurised....araldite can fix a crack/split...used same to fix window washer tanks for cars...lasted 5years before traded...
They cx bottles come up on ebay used....maybe NOs but rare...
Cdi and ti are different shapes...get the right one...
Not engine out BUT dropping on the mounts at least...
 

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CX500EC Eurosport 1982
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Cheap to buy used ones. You’ll have to undo engine bolts and just slide it out of the way a little bit, not entirely remove the engine OR you could come in from the other direction and remove air box I guess, maybe rear wheel too.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Airbox, rear wheel and swingarm if the fit is anything like the Pro-Link models. Much easier to shift the engine I think.
BUT unless it is a show bike I think I would either patch it, find a good one and change it the next time the bike is apart for something else or change to a different tank in another location (there are a couple of threads about doing that).

BTW: The only time the tank is close to pressurized is if something happens in the engine like overheating enough to boil over or a blown head gasket, either of which can send more coolant to the tank than normal but that's why there is an overflow hose.
I'd be more concerned about what could get into the tank and be sucked back into the engine if the crack gets wider.
 

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I've repaired these bottles by dremelling a groove along the crack much like prepping to weld and filling the groove with 2 part epoxy - the semi transparent type. Not JB weld.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. My bike is CDI being a 1978. I will attempt a repair and look for a good used one.

If I find a replacement then it looks like I will need the spanners. Bike is restored (by me) and so I want a good looking repair or replace
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Vehicle
 
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Maybe as per Cx phreak a gentle groove...araldite wont be noticable....its clear..dunno bout the epoxy referred to by cxpreak.
Then look for NOS...if you dont forget about it....its "hidden"...
 

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Araldite is what I use. As it's a Selleys product those outside of Australia likely wouldn't know what it is so I went with the more generic term.

Didn't realise Mikkels is in Oz.
 
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Araldite is what I use. As it's a Selleys product those outside of Australia likely wouldn't know what it is so I went with the more generic term.

Didn't realise Mikkels is in Oz.
All good...thought u had a better one....😃
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks CXPHREAK, I’m in New Zealand actually but we do have Araldite. Good stuff. Does go yellow with age. Will look for a good bottle to replace mine. Not holding out too much hope but will keep an eye on coolant levels regularly. Winter here so not a lot of riding going on.
 

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@Mikkels

Beautiful bike, great job on the resto, i love it! 👏
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have secured a second hand replacement bottle. So what is the minimum to get this in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks. I'd opt for #3 as I would not heat up the new bottle to get it in. Seems likely to distort or damage it. So more detail I guess. Just remove engine bolts and wriggle around or is there quite a bit needed to come off as well? I guess I will take a look at what is possible. Engine seems to have to come forward so will that affect the drive shaft attachment?
 

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Put a jack under the rear of the engine to support it, remove the rear engine mount bolts and whatever is needed so the engine mount is hanging by the bolt that goes all the way through (I could tell you on a pro-link model but I'm not entirely sure what is needed on a twin shock model) and lower the jack gently to let the engine swing forward just enough to get the tank out without disengaging the shaft from the final drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took a good look today. Strategy will need to involve loosening the carb boots from the air box. Will drain the oil and then if I have to disconnect the drive shaft will be no drama. Plug leads off possibly disconnect starter connection. Jack engine, remove mounting bolts. May have to loosen pipes as well to get enough movement.
Spare bottle comes from a mate who is 120km away. Will go visit and pick it up soon.
 
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