Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm way overdue for a cooling flush and whatever concoction I choose to do the job the instructions are pretty much the same, that being to fill and drain several times. Maybe I'm splitting hairs here but I it seems to me that you're not getting a TOTAL drain unless you access the cylinder jacket drain bolts each time which means, unless you have a wrench I've never seen before, means pulling the radiator.



I have been at those bolts before and there seems to be a significant amount of fluid still in the system until those bolts are backed off and to me that means the system will never totally be purged of the cleaning solution until the cylinder jackets are drained as well.



Well, maybe not on the intermediary drains but on the final drain I'm thinking this is a necessary step. Am I getting to picky picky here??



All opinions appreciated....gweric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
If you flush with water a few times after the chemical flush there should be no residual in the engine. If you want to be really anal you can then flush with distilled water and after draining just add straight antifreeze equal to 1/2 of the system capacity through the radiator then top off with distilled water.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
I had your line of thinking when I serviced my cx cooling system. So I removed the radiator before filling it with vinegar and soaking overnight. I then rinsed it well, put it back on and did a couple fill/heat cycles with coolant. All has been well since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
I had your line of thinking when I serviced my cx cooling system. So I removed the radiator before filling it with vinegar and soaking overnight. I then rinsed it well, put it back on and did a couple fill/heat cycles with coolant. All has been well since.
first ,happy birthday m8.

i do similar to Linny.

vinegar is very cheap here.so every march i drain the coolant out[most of it]fill with vinegar,run the bike till thermostat opens.leave overnight.drain and replace the next day with tap water.run the bike for another day,to and from work.

drain and refill with coolant.

every year.works for me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,601 Posts
The best: http://members.shaw./betterthanyoutoo/dexcoolflush.htm You can only but this at a GM dealer but none will best it. I tend to flush it a couple of times along the ways with extra water too before I'll completely replace the coolant. It removes any silcate resdue as well as the older style glycols. Doesn't cost any more than the cheap stuff either but you've got to hits dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
The best: http://members.shaw./betterthanyoutoo/dexcoolflush.htm You can only but this at a GM dealer but none will best it. I tend to flush it a couple of times along the ways with extra water too before I'll completely replace the coolant. It removes any silcate resdue as well as the older style glycols. Doesn't cost any more than the cheap stuff either but you've got to hits dealer.


Hey Marshall,



Getting ready to flush my coolant system, and trying the link--came up empty at work...what is the product you are referring to? Also does one have to remove the pipes to take off the radiator in order to gain access to the low point drains? I think I have coolant in there from the late 80's!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,163 Posts
I suppose, a question could be asked: Do you open the petcocks on your car's engine block when flushing the radiator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I suppose, a question could be asked: Do you open the petcocks on your car's engine block when flushing the radiator?


It would seem that others have done a 'flush in this fashion' to make sure the system is really clean...I didn't think my question was too far out there. Again the bike has been sitting since the early 80's...I am assuming that the coolant has NEVER been changed, and would like as thorough of a flush as I can get.



I guess if there was a better way to flush the motor on my car, other than multiple drainings, I think I would
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
I'll probably try the vinegar, then distilled water for a couple rinses. Has anyone tried CLR? I thought it might be a great way to remove any hardened build-ups? Do you think it's safe?



thanks,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I'll probably try the vinegar, then distilled water for a couple rinses. Has anyone tried CLR? I thought it might be a great way to remove any hardened build-ups? Do you think it's safe?



thanks,


CLR is really harsh on certain rubbers...I would probably avoid it as I could imagine there being quite a few seals that it would contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,163 Posts
NO, your question isn't/wasn't too far out there, and I apoligise if you interpreted that way. But, unless you rinse it 20 times, you may NEVER achieve elimination of EVERYTHING you used to flush it with.



Just rinse it til you feel you can sleep without waking up in the middle of the night screaming.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
NO, your question isn't/wasn't too far out there, and I apoligise if you interpreted that way. But, unless you rinse it 20 times, you may NEVER achieve elimination of EVERYTHING you used to flush it with.



Just rinse it til you feel you can sleep without waking up in the middle of the night screaming.........


haha...no foul Bearman...a lot of the conversation is lost in Text! I just want to make sure I do my best to do a little bit more than a simple flush, and want to go a little further not knowing any of the history for this bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
I was thinking of CLR in the rad alone when removed from the bike. I don't think I'll run it thru the complete system for the reason you mentioned of the seals and rubber.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I was thinking about the cooling flush and had a couple ideas...what if you were to remove the thermostat, replace the cover, add some "Tee" fittings in the lower and upper radiator hoses, drain down the system, and put a circulation pump in line with the Tee fittings and just let hot vinegar continuously circulate through the system for like 4 or 5 hours? Has anyone ever tried this?



You could even add some sort of screen/filter that would catch any loose crud that brakes free...even have a dump valve that would pump the system out through a filter to catch the stuff coming out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
Rick, are you retired??


35 year old mechanical engineer, 2 kids, a large honey-do list, and longing for shop time!
I know it seems like overkill, but I like to experiement...why not try some stuff right? this is fun for me. Might work out well, and it might not. The thought of circulating continuously in a closed loop system would keep things clean as far as keeping the fluids contained, and the circulation and agitation would work to exchange the vinegar or flushing solution. I would like to try it and will let you guys know how it all works out!! just wanted to see if anyone has ever done something like this...I know your out there...maybe at least one of ya!?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts




is this the correct position for the O-ring? When I pulled the pipe, the O-ring was still inside the housing. This is the return line, left hand side, to the bottom of the radiator.



here is a pic of my pump hooked up to back flush the system. It is working really well, and I think I am getting much more changeovers than I would if I just ran the bike, let her sit over night, and drain and fill the next day. There is a TON of scale in this system. I have flushed 1.5 gallons of white vinegar through the system already, and it is finally coming out sorta clean.



Here is a pic of the pump arrangment...







Will keep you guys posted on the progress. I think the churning I get from the flow created by the pump is really working well to clean out the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,163 Posts
When I pulled that pipe, the O-ring stayed in the housing. And, when I put that pipe back in, I put just a "smidgen" of lubrication on the end, and pushed and held constant pressure against that O-ring, until I had those "U-brackets" on fairly tight.



But, to answer your question. No, that O-ring goes to the right of the first flair out on that pipe. You can kinda see the "mark" where that O-ring seats against the pipe there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
well done Rick,thats a nice diy set up....just up my street
 
1 - 20 of 59 Posts
Top