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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the CXs and still learning. I've looked at topics on leaking mech seals but there aren't many Picts. I've got a coolant leak that's pretty bad. I thought it was the o-ring on the chrome tube but its coming from behind it. It's a good steady drip only when running. Here's a pict. I'm pointing to where it drips with a red straw.





It this leak because of the mech seal or is it Somethin else?
 

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shep is probanly correct as per norm.

give us some history......how long has the bike been running for etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bike has sat for a long time. It hasn't ran since 2007 I'm guessing. Cause that's when the registration sticker on the plate expired. I know some people say that the mech seal may reseal itself after a few miles. How many would you think? I had It idling in the garage a bit and only Took it for a spin around the block once. When I took it for a ride I noticed the temp guage stayed at cold, the radiator was cool to the touch but engine felt very warm. I pulled the it apart today and just put it back together without the thermostat. Is that ok? Also I got the bike from a friend that planned on getting it goin. His dad ended up hookin the battery charger to the battery wrong and fried most of the wiring harness. My friend already replaced the harness but there's a few things not completely correct. So I'm guessing that why the temp guage isn't workin.
 

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Well, Im sure no expert but when I got my bike a rebuilt it, it had been sitting for over 25 years. Once I fixed it up I ran it and had the same problem. It would leak only when running, and about a drip per second. As the engine warmed up it slowed a bit, but didnt stop. I know its the mechanical seal as the leakage comes out a "weep hole" on the impeller caseing.



I checked the manual and only reference for replacing the mechanical seal (before I found this forum) and all the description made it out to be a huge scary job (special press fit, have to heat the casing, may destroy something etc). For this reason I decided to leave it be and wait until next year (this year) to worry about it.



Mine seemed to take about 2 months of driving before it slowed and stopped, but never really seemed to loose much and just kept it topped up.



This year it does not leak at all, seems to have sealed itself so I will again leave it be until it becomes an issue. At least now with the people here and posts they have made I see the job isnt as "scarry" as it was made out to be, and may onday do it if it starts leaking again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I hope mine does the same. I still need to get new tires and regester the title. Probably a functioning temp guage would be good to.
 

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Before I replaced mine it only leaked when it was sitting.....not running, but only a few drips here and there. I waited until I had ANOTHER reason to drop the engine and open the back cover before replacing it but obviously when you do it depends on if it slows down and how much and how quick it leaks.......if it's "gushing" then I'd probably go ahead and replace now, just depends on how bad it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's not gushing. It's weird. It looks like it leaks at idle. When it leaks sometimes it just drips but other times it's just short of a stream.
 

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Since you haven't registered the bike yet, you may not have had a very long ride where the engine really warms up. (As it's been said before) Many times, a coolant leak will seal back up after a long and hot trip.



If it's gushing, then you've got to change it, but give the long ride a shot first.



~Thom
 
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