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i see the radiator cap under tank and i see a jug under seat do i have to take tank off to check fluid or just add to filler bottle
 

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You cannot trust the overflow bottle especially if the bike is new to you.Get to the Rad cap and check inside the Radiator.If it's a good level you can top up if you wish.Then just get used to where your normal running temp is on rides.It should be on the nominal mark on the temp gauge under normal air cooling riding.

Then the temp gauge is your warning system on how good the cooling system is.On both my CX500s the needle is almost always on the nominal mark under normal conditions.When it has been higher for any length of time there has been a fault and these can vary.One instance the nut on the water pump impeller came loose and a caused over-heating.Another time the thermostat got old and needed replacing.If you don't know the age of the coolant I would change it.Just use cheap car coolant 50/50% mix.



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Coolant.htm
 

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You should fill the radiator right to the top to get all the air out of the rad. I always start the engine and run it for a couple of minutes and then check the rad level again to make sure it`s full. Don`t run it long enough for the engine to get hot. Then fill the expansion bottle to someplace between the max and min marks. Then, as long as you don`t have any leaks you only have to check the bottle and make sure the level is between those two marks. One more thing. All that depends on having the correct pressure radiator cap in good working order. If the seals in the radiator cap leak you should replace it.
 

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Remove the tank and do it the right way. It's always easier to do stuff like this when you group it with maintenance. So Oil change, coolant top off, tappet and cam chain adjustment and a basic check over of the bike. Should take about an hour or less.
 

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On cars, especially those without an air bleed, I've filled as well as I could then run the engine until the thermostat opened and you had coolant flowing through the radiator. Shut it off, let it cool down for a few minutes then top it off and cap it. Next fill the overflow to the proper level.
 

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I haven't any idea why, but on my custom not only do i have to remove the tank, but i also have to untighten the lower rad hose clamp and i believe another, then pull the radiator away from the frame to actually get the cap off. As far as i know its the OEM cap but does anybody else have this problem?
 

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I haven't any idea why, but on my custom not only do i have to remove the tank, but i also have to untighten the lower rad hose clamp and i believe another, then pull the radiator away from the frame to actually get the cap off. As far as i know its the OEM cap but does anybody else have this problem?




It's because the custom radiators fill point is actually closer to the center of the frame than the other bikes. Just to make it more of a pain to get to.
 

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Darned thing I've ever seen when I first looked at mine. You'd think they would have lightly modified things on the Cuustom variant to acount for this but then again our cooling systems rarely need any maintenance.
 

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Darned thing I've ever seen when I first looked at mine. You'd think they would have lightly modified things on the Cuustom variant to acount for this but then again our cooling systems rarely need any maintenance.


True.I think I went two years between a coolant change and never had cause to take the Rad cap off as my bike was always nominal on the Temp gauge and the overflow bottle never got used once.I've checked a little more often after fitting an EFan but that's only because of the modification.
 
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