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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Thought I would post about this cool thing I bought and tried to help reduce the buzzin in my handle bars on the highway. Even though my carbs are balanced (Checked with the Carbtune - they are witin half a mm of each other) once I get above about 65 MPH the handle bars start to buzz. So I hapened to pick up an issue of Cycle World (I sometimes like to try new magazines to see if they are interesting - I'd never read it before) and in the letter to the editor section some guy mentions this product called a "vibranator" In essence the principle behind it is it is a tuned harmonic dampener, similar to what you would find on a helicopter.



Apparently there is some scientific basis to vibration causing muscle pain, and this product aims to help eliminate the vibrations and reduce the strain.



So, I was intrigued, they had a 30 day money back guarantee, so I ordered a set.



http://www.vibranator.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=08-635-710-N-003M



I put them in last night - they seem to actually do what they claim to do. The vibration up to about 60 MPH is almost eliminated, and past that much reduced. Above 70 the buzzing starts to creep back in - so it solves part of my problem, but not all, but, I am going to keep them or sure since all the vibrations up to that point are basically removed.



Just thought I would throw this out there, seems to work, its actually made in the USA (Shocking). Its a small place, and when I ordered they were inundated with orders, so it was a little slow to go out, but I did call them up and they sent it out the next day.



I don't have any pics b/c i forgot to take them, but the install basically involved ripping out my old weights and installed these, fairly straightforward.



Mike
 

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I decided to buy some of those after trying a lot of other things, all the standard solutions and it still bothered me a little.  These didn't fully erase vibration, but like you said they took away the vibes from the range I usually ride in.  Easy to install but a PITA to try to uninstall, buyer beware if you want to take them out and return them.  
 

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Fancy bar end weight. Did anyone weigh these or has the weight posted on the package?



I would try some weight and glue the ends before shelling out $70 for these. Just because I am cheap and like to do it on my own...just saying.
 

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I saw that in Cycle World, too. I'd just bought some other ones though (for a bit less). IMO, Cycle World is a great magazine. Peter Egan, one of the editorial writers, is exceptional, and a true gearhead - not some high and mighty type. He was a mechanic before he got his break with Cycle World. He's got some collections of his editorials for sale on amazon. Excellent toilet reading at a minimum.



While I'm on the subject, Motorcycle Cruiser is pretty good too. I'm not much of a V-twin cruiser fan, but it's still interesting, and the technical articles are great - probably what keeps me reading the mag.
 

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I suffer from Raynaud's syndrome,Vibration White Finger so am very susceptible to vibrations.I've tried most things including lead shot etc.These only serve to move the vibrations to different rev range so only shift the problem.





The single best thing I've found and now cannot ride without is the Vista Cruise Control,

http://www.aerostich.com/nep-cruise-control.html



This allows you to rest your throttle hand.I also use a different throttle/Clutch technique on longer rides by lifting my thumbs on top of the bars which eases fatigue on a straight traffic free situation.





I've cut my vibrations down to a bare minimum by getting my engine as smooth as possible.









All engine mounting bolts are secure.



Accurately balanced carbs.



Dressed tappets,

http://www.sheppola.karoo.net/TwistedTwin/TappetsDressing.htm



Large grips help especially if they are the more solid foam type,



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Univ...4398769QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



but if the foam is too porous they can get sodden so spray with clear silicone as a water-proof.



These grips are decent on one of my CX,



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Custom-Mo...12?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ef5ae0178





HTH
 

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I changed the bars on my 500E to an aftermarket set to get a better riding position. Because they were lighter, they vibrated more.

My solution was to wait for my Missus to go shopping and then use her oven to dry a tray of fine river sand.

Plug one end with a weight and then fill it up with the sand and plug the other end.

It worked a treat as I think the vibrations were absorbed by the sand.
 

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I changed the bars on my 500E to an aftermarket set to get a better riding position. Because they were lighter, they vibrated more.

My solution was to wait for my Missus to go shopping and then use her oven to dry a tray of fine river sand.

Plug one end with a weight and then fill it up with the sand and plug the other end.

It worked a treat as I think the vibrations were absorbed by the sand.


Tried it.Just moved the vibrations into another rev band for me so no good
 

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Shep, I have seen your vid before IIRC. Smooooooooooooooooooooooooooth...



My Maggie has a heavy vibration at idle. So that is one thing to minimize. It's not bad, just that it could be smoother. Shaking is similar to a Harley at idle so it makes me look tougher with the H-D crowd.




Also working on an ignition test as the left has a great spark while the right looks weaker. Cobram's package with my Ignitech is being shipped out today, so I will report back on if that helps the idle issue. Haven't ridden my bike far enough yet to get vibrations noted at certain rpm ranges. Heading out in a bit for the day and wx is nice, so me and the bike are going instead of the cage.
 

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Shep, I have seen your vid before IIRC. Smooooooooooooooooooooooooooth...



My Maggie has a heavy vibration at idle. So that is one thing to minimize. It's not bad, just that it could be smoother. Shaking is similar to a Harley at idle so it makes me look tougher the H-D crowd.




Also working on an ignition test as the left has a great spark while the right looks weaker. Cobram's package with my Ignitech is being shipped out today, so I will report back on if that helps the idle issue. Haven't ridden my bike far enough yet to get vibrations noted at certain rpm ranges. Heading out in a bit for the day and wx is nice, so me and the bike are going instead of the cage.




Balanced carbs are a must.If even slightly out they will cause vibrations.Although a bit costly at the time I'm glad I bought a Carbtune 2 years a go.It's of such high quality and ease-of-use I would never be without it but with it's build quality and the fact it is even serviceable I doubt I will need another in my lifetime.I went for the 4 carb one as it's not much more than the two carb one and had helped other biker M8s I have.



http://www.carbtune.com/



Remember when balancing carbs the trick is to set them slightly out so when you tighten the lock nut they come into perfect balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Balanced carbs are a must.If even slightly out they will cause vibrations.Although a bit costly at the time I'm glad I bought a Carbtune 2 years a go.It's of such high quality and ease-of-use I would never be without it but with it's build quality and the fact it is even serviceable I doubt I will need another in my lifetime.I went for the 4 carb one as it's not much more than the two carb one and had helped other biker M8s I have.



http://www.carbtune.com/



Remember when balancing carbs the trick is to set them slightly out so when you tighten the lock nut they come into perfect balance.


I have my carbs balanced to within a half bar of each other, and the bike runs really smooth, up until the band that I mentioned. However, that is also where the spark advance opens up on the ignitech.



Some people have mentioned balancing their carbs at a higher RPM, and then others say not to - I didn't, as I am not sure it is an accurate way of doing things.



I have been looking for larger grips - thanks for the link Shep, I might have to try those out, since they are pretty cheap.



Mike
 

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Like any other companies out there manufacturing is done at a minimum cost for the best benefit

to the most people. Most of the kinds of weights installed on handlebars are for the average

highway speed the bikes were designed for at the time of manufacture. I've noticed on both the

CX500 I had thirty years ago and my current GL650 the best cruise speed for the least amount

of vibration is the 55 mph which was the legal limit in those days. Nowadays it's 70 for most

of the interstate highways. Between the higher speeds, wear and tear and whatever mods and

replacements done over a quarter of a century, it's pretty easy to see why people have problems.



There is a certain harmonic resonance all objects have (the rate of vibration however fast or

slow a object will move the easiest). Just ask the fine folks who built the Tacoma Narrows

bridge. A little wind, a little movement of the bridge until it found its natural resonance

to vibrate (pretty slow so it looks like it's rocking back and forth)...



And voila!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Fi1VcbpAI



I think you will always have vibration with handlebars, the best you can do is to minimize

the vibration and whatever speed you like to cruise at. I like my Vista cruise control

clamp myself.
 

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Like any other companies out there manufacturing is done at a minimum cost for the best benefit

to the most people. Most of the kinds of weights installed on handlebars are for the average

highway speed the bikes were designed for at the time of manufacture. I've noticed on both the

CX500 I had thirty years ago and my current GL650 the best cruise speed for the least amount

of vibration is the 55 mph which was the legal limit in those days. Nowadays it's 70 for most

of the interstate highways. Between the higher speeds, wear and tear and whatever mods and

replacements done over a quarter of a century, it's pretty easy to see why people have problems.



There is a certain harmonic resonance all objects have (the rate of vibration however fast or

slow a object will move the easiest). Just ask the fine folks who built the Tacoma Narrows

bridge. A little wind, a little movement of the bridge until it found its natural resonance

to vibrate (pretty slow so it looks like it's rocking back and forth)...



And voila!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Fi1VcbpAI



I think you will always have vibration with handlebars, the best you can do is to minimize

the vibration and whatever speed you like to cruise at. I like my Vista cruise control

clamp myself.




THAT was the bridge that did that? I drove across that bridge driving for J.B.Hunt. I get luckier all the time. I was in Phoenix coming back from Cali when that freeway fell, I come across it day before.



I always make sure the OEM cruise control is in good order before I go anywhere. I also try to wear gel gloves when on longer rides(no idea where I got them it has been many years and memory is not what it used to be).
 

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I have the Vista Cruise and a Throttle Rocker (same thing as the Cramp Buster). This combo solves the numb hand problem for me.

The Throttle Rocker lets you flex you fingers, rest them on the brake lever, etc while you ride. The Vista Cruise lets you take your hand right off the throttle on longer (traffic free) stretches. Can't beat the combination IMHO.
 

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There are good inexpensive bar vibration dampeners available for sleds that also work well on bikes. Look in Dennis Kirk under snowmobiles.
 
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