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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
He wheels on my bike are starting to look really poor. Washing and polishing helps but they need a full overhaul.

is it possible to completely disassemble the comstar wheel. Then polish and paint and then reassemble them?
If so would i need any special tools or equipment. And would any special things need to be done afterwards.
 

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It can be done yes.. but its not really advised to do so.. just clean paint and polish it while its assembled.
I am going to paint mine for now and over the winter have them blasted and powder coated.. And I wont
be taking them apart. No real need.
 

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There is no problem taking them apart and bolting them back together again. If it's done carefully it's perfectly safe and they will self align when bolted back together and balance up just fine.

Here's mine, I took it to a shop to get the tyre fitted and there were no out of round issues and very minimal weight was required to balance it, no more than a normal wheel balancing. I did it to fit a wider 17" rim to a CX500 hub.



Cheers
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There is no problem taking them apart and bolting them back together again. If it's done carefully it's perfectly safe and they will self align when bolted back together and balance up just fine.

Here's mine, I took it to a shop to get the tyre fitted and there were no out of round issues and very minimal weight was required to balance it, no more than a normal wheel balancing. I did it to fit a wider 17" rim to a CX500 hub.



Cheers
Steve
cheers for that. Mine are grubby and there is signs of rust inside where I can not properly get at it. But i was planning on buying g a spare set and doing them up and fitting to my bike.
What bolts did you use when rebuilding yours?
 

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Lots of people convert the cx wheel to 17 in gl so its proven safe.Done properly.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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What are material are comstars made of ?
The original Comstar (edges pointing inward) is an aluminum rim with pressed steel spokes. The Reverse Comstar (black, with edges pointing outward) is all aluminum.


R
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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I went to check out what size I bought at the junkyard.... Turns out it's an 18". Will it still fit?
It will bolt right onto a 500. You'll be limited to 120/90-18. Any wider and you'll start rubbing the swingarm.


R
 

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Sorry to jump on someone else's post, but hope it's relevent. I had an MTB ally frame powder coated. It is common knowledge that they need to have a special primer (etching) before powdered coating, something the cheaper companies miss out.While looking good when done, after a while (year) the powder coat can flake off.Not because of bad spraying, but it's because its ally. No one seems to talk about this regarding their wheels ? This is only on ally, (cx wheels as just confirmed) the steel frames as on cx 's are fine.
 

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Sorry to jump on someone else's post, but hope it's relevent. I had an MTB ally frame powder coated. It is common knowledge that they need to have a special primer (etching) before powdered coating, something the cheaper companies miss out.While looking good when done, after a while (year) the powder coat can flake off.Not because of bad spraying, but it's because its ally. No one seems to talk about this regarding their wheels ? This is only on ally, (cx wheels as just confirmed) the steel frames as on cx 's are fine.
I'd have to disagree with you based on my personal experience, as my reverse Comstars have been blasted, powder-coated and have held up perfectly fine for the past 2 years+ so far without any cosmetic issue other than a few blemishes caused from brake fluid drip. Perhaps it's the luck of the draw in my case.
 

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I have powder coated several "alloy" wheels, never had any issue with them. I have done 4 vfr750f wheels several years ago and they still look brand new. I even did my 4runner wheels last year and even in the salt this winter they still look like I just did them. also have done several odds and ends like foot peg mounts the pegs them self they all look good unless they are a high wear point then I have to fix them where my boot will wear through the powder, never had it chip off though.
I will agree it takes a little more prep to do aluminum as you have to "gas" twice before putting powder on it. but never read anywhere that I should prime it first or found that it is required.
 
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