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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting up my build thread for my newly acquired GL500. For those who missed the intro thread, I'm Parker and I picked up a nearly free GL500! It's missing the coils (cut out), seats, keys, and petcock so there's a bit of work to do before it's on the road. I think they look pretty cool with fairings, but the plastics are so UV-baked on this bike that they weren't usable, and the bags were cracked and broken really badly. This particular bike will be a scrambler-style runabout for in-town riding and probably only 40-80 mile mountain rides with a couple of friends.

Starting out...
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She's got good bones, with minor surface rust (OEM fasteners still have the zinc on them!). The engine spins freely and has compression, but leaks at the clutch shaft. The wiring and controls have unfortunately succumb to the same environmental factors as the rest of the plastic, so that's another item on the list. The main plugs next to the battery literally turned to dust when I tried to check for corrosion, so starting is going to have to wait!

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Looks like a fun project! I’ll be following. I’m thinking of going Scrsmbler-esque too
 
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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did a little bit of work last weekend. The front lost a bit of weight...
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If anyone wants any parts from the front, let me know and I'll get you better photos. I'll probably also make a dedicated for sale post.
 

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Parts are slowly arriving...

Rae San ignition, CBR COP coils, 2008 R1 front end, 2011 R1 rear shock, Noco NLP5 battery, used Mika Metals dirtbike bars, roller bearings for the stem conversion, various gaskets...

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I started to remove paint from the tank, but found that my perfectly shaped tank was also comprised of about 25% body filler. Also, when removing paint from underneath I uncovered a severely rusted-through patch, so I found a second hand tank in better condition. It's hard to tell, but the gouges in the filler are over 1/4" deep already.



I took the new tank and ran some orange degreaser and a chain through it to break up any loose rust. Once it was rinsed, I ran a magnet through to grab the chain and any loose metal not rinsed out, then did a 4:1 water:phosphoric acid soak to remedy the final surface rust. The PO4 only sprang one tiny pinhole, so we'll call it good!


Drying thoroughly with the heat gun before pouring in the POR-15 tank sealer. I was bad at photos at this point (I was trying not to get it on me), but make sure the solids in the POR-15 are well mixed! I got lucky with some clumps, and they cured where they wouldn't block the fuel outlet. This stuff is magical, and sealed all the seams and pinhole.



I'm going to have to strip the paint. Does anyone have experience with CitriStrip-type strippers? I ran out of the good Aircraft Remover stuff, and no products have TSP in them anymore so I'm wondering what to use?
 

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I ordered the Rae-San module, I told him I wanted to go COP. That means I'll be converting the TI drivers to CDI boxes to drive 2015 CBR1000RR coils. I was able to pick up 4 coils and the harness for less than one replacement coil for the GL, so call it a good scratch for my tinkering itch. I pulled the weather boots off the spark plug and slid over the COP to make this!
Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light Automotive lighting

Not too tall; only about 18mm higher than the OE plug boots and they should give vastly hotter spark. I've still got some trimming to do but it should shrink down ~5mm or so further.
 

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Did you get the COP new or second hand? Looks like a nice profile.
 

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to have to strip the paint. Does anyone have experience with CitriStrip-type strippers? I ran out of the good Aircraft Remover stuff, and no products have TSP in them anymore so I'm wondering what to use?
So a bit of an update here. I was wrong about TSP being the active ingredient, it's the nasty Methylene Chloride that's been removed from paint strippers. I'd seen people use CitriStrip before, but wasn't really seeing many positive comments for automotive-type paints so I thought I'd give it a try. Seemed it wasn't working after an hour or so (can says 30 minutes). Went back inside to make dinner, dinner turned to movie, turned to sleep. Came back in the morning and the paint had been turned to a damp powder! Nice and hands-off, and it seems that it'll work, it's just going to take longer than my old favorite chemicals took to get completely stripped.

Grabbed a shot of my "leave it overnight" stripper experiment. It didn't creep under the decal very well, but much better than I expected! I'd say 90% of this just came off with the air blower. If you're the patient type, I'd recommend trying it!

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today the air suspension got pulled. It's replacement is a double-adjustable unit from a 2012 R1. It bolted right in to the ProLink suspension with some spacers to center it!



I may have done a bit of excessive clearancing for the mounting tab to aid in installation...

 

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Do you have dual front brakes on that GL? Was thinking of upgrading my cx500 to those.
 

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The GL500 Interstate came with dual discs, the GL500 only single disc.
 

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Was thinking of upgrading my cx500 to those.
As long as you still have space for a listing in your signature, this would certainly be a useful modification. :LOL:
 

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As long as you still have space for a listing in your signature, this would certainly be a useful modification. :LOL:
Ha! Oh man I forgot I have all that. Back in the day I did that more to help me remember. Now it seems I’ve forgotten I even did it.
 

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yesterday was hot outside, so I sat inside watching Babylon 5 and taking apart some Keihins. Glad I'm taking them apart for cleaning, as there is quite a bit of rust hanging out in here (that was a clean towel when I started!). Replacing the inner ACV seems like it'll be a challenge, but I'm excited that the overflow tubes have no cracking!
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Please forgive, I hadn't pulled the idle screws yet in this photo.
 

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Yesterday was hot outside, so I sat inside watching Babylon 5 and taking apart some Keihins. Glad I'm taking them apart for cleaning, as there is quite a bit of rust hanging out in here (that was a clean towel when I started!). Replacing the inner ACV seems like it'll be a challenge, but I'm excited that the overflow tubes have no cracking! View attachment 214257

Please forgive, I hadn't pulled the idle screws yet in this photo.
You should separate the carbs. Not only will it make it way easier to access the ACV but it is necessary to replace the orings on the 2 fuel crossover tubes.
 

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When rebracketing the two carbs together a bent dental style pick or two make rewinding the springs relatively easy. That is usually the task that scares folks about separating them. Larry’s carb book details that too! The towel to work on is one of the best “carb tips” ever. Every tiny carb part I have ever lost was when I WASN’T working on a towel.
 

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1982 GL500 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You should separate the carbs. Not only will it make it way easier to access the ACV but it is necessary to replace the orings on the 2 fuel crossover tubes.
I thought I'd saved a bookmark, but do you know the appropriate size for the fuel crossover o-rings?
 

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I thought I'd saved a bookmark, but do you know the appropriate size for the fuel crossover o-rings?

I got 2x4 and 2x6 instead of 2x3.8 and 2x5.8 as this is what was available and they fit just fine. Get viton for those.
 
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