[chiangmaiglman]

I've been intending on replacing my Clutch Springs for some time. No specific mechanical reason other than it is highly recommended on high mileage bikes (76,000 kilometers) but have been putting it off due to lack of a proper clutch nut removal tool.

As luck would have it I was in a pretty well stocked hardware store the other day and noticed three different sized clutch nut removal sockets. There were 3 sizes 18mm, 20.5mm, and 24mm. The 24mm was clearly marked as FOR HONDA MOTORCYCLES.

I seemed to recall, on our forum, people suggesting modifying a 7/8" socket (I think) and 24mm is awfully close to 7/8" so I bought it (9 USD).

Is this 24mm socket the right size? I could take it back and get one of the others if necessary.

Thanks

Mark in rainy, but blissfully cooler, Thailand

 

[guelli02]

There is no nut in the common sense.

Here are pictures ( look at the first and the third one)
DIY ;-))

In the drawing these 21mm heigh depends on the 32mm socket.


Maybe on the GL400 it might be different

 

[Jim G]

I use a 32mm King Gator socket for it. Have you got a picture of what you purchased?

 

[chiangmaiglman]

There is no nut in the common sense.

Here are pictures ( look at the first and the third one)
DIY ;-))

Geulli02-

Yes that is the nut and the tool in question would remove that if it is the right size.

Given your schematic it appears 24mm may not be large enough.

Nice tool, by the way.....

 

[guelli02]

it appears 24mm may not be large enough.

That's right. 32mm is needed for this DIY-tool

 

[chiangmaiglman]

That's right. 32mm is needed for this DIY-tool

Sheit!!

Back it goes. Maybe I'll take your schematic to a local machinist here and have it made.

Again.......Good work on the DIY tool and thanks to the forum.

 

[Sidecar Bob]

That is only the size you need if you have one of Guelli's special tools to use inside it.

Many of us have modified ordinary sockets by cutting away material with a grinder. I used a 15/16" 12 point and left 4 of the points, then had to grind the remaining points a bit thinner to get it to go in the nut so a 24mm socket should be just about right..

BUT you only have to remove that nut if you are going to remove the plates. If you are only going to remove the springs all you need is a 10mm socket.

And who recommended changing the clutch springs at only 76,000 Km? Eccles' original engine has well over 93,500 Km of abuse, including pulling a sidecar for 66,500 and the clutch is one of the few parts that still works right

 

[Ed Z]

When I had my GL1200 I purchased a new nut allong with the other parts I had to order... The swing arm nut had been buggered by the previous owner... Having the new nut in hand made it real easy to mark up and then grind down a old socket to fit it near perfectly...

 

[ASH]

Folks, how about this 27/37mm tool?
That looks like it should work, doesn't it?

https://www.amazon.com/AUTUT-Motorcycle-Scooter-Clutch-Spanner/dp/B07QRZMWSV/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WE48M3PPVEKTKD7RHMFJ

 

[MyBikeIsCursed]

I've been intending on replacing my Clutch Springs for some time. No specific mechanical reason other than it is highly recommended on high mileage bikes (76,000 kilometers) but have been putting it off due to lack of a proper clutch nut removal tool.

As luck would have it I was in a pretty well stocked hardware store the other day and noticed three different sized clutch nut removal sockets. There were 3 sizes 18mm, 20.5mm, and 24mm. The 24mm was clearly marked as FOR HONDA MOTORCYCLES.

I seemed to recall, on our forum, people suggesting modifying a 7/8" socket (I think) and 24mm is awfully close to 7/8" so I bought it (9 USD).

Is this 24mm socket the right size? I could take it back and get one of the others if necessary.

Thanks

Mark in rainy, but blissfully cooler, Thailand

Haha if you don't care about torque or a small dent in the nut you can use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer.

 

[bahn88]

I think people have used that "hammer tap" technique removing the retainer ring in the final drive as well....

A torque wrench is a good investment tho...and if you dont have one consider adding to your toolbox.
if wrenching everyday..you might get away with feel on chassis bolts/spindles....but ill always use a t/wrench...first at 50% target...then 80% the 100% (pedantic..lol))

 

[joethebike]

I made up this effective but ungainly looking combined clutch holder and nut remover from some scrap metal by copying the Honda special tool shown in the manual using my welder and angle grinder.

 

[bahn88]

I think that tool featured in the ugly tool thread here....(no offence) just remember seeing it

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Haha if you don't care about torque or a small dent in the nut you can use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer.

I've encountered the damage caused by that technique enough times, this suggestion makes me wish there was a "dislike" button.
(Not disliking you, just the suggestion.)

 

[CXPHREAK]

Have you not seen those that have fallen victim to the cold chisel?

 

[bahn88]

umm..and not only by backyarders.....In my youth my Honda dealer suggested i try to use this "precision tool" to remove a rounded out cross head on a early CB250 chain sprocket cover..........
I spent a few hows just trying to file it (new "X") with a jewelers file and lots of penetrene......came out

 

[CXPHREAK]

I actually do remove totally buggered cross head screws by putting in 2 grooves with the cold chisel and then using modded cold chisel with a squared off edge to remove.

But only if they're hitting the bin anyway.

But your efforts to preserve a viable screw are admirable.

These screws are mostly the product of phillips screwdrivers used in JIS screws.

I have been guilty of this myself only having learned of JIS about 12 years ago.

Tool shops here still do not get this.

They sell phillips as phillips and also JIS as phillips if you look close and know what you're looking at.

 

[bahn88]

maybe I needed to ask....I think/recall I assumed he meant to just shear the head off.....hence my filing....but twas 45 year ago still remember it...

And still have my first sidchrome torque wrench bought bout then (now just a decoration..as re-calibration was comparable to a new tool)

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Have you not seen those that have fallen victim to the cold chisel?

The proper tool won't fully engage after the chisel/punch/screwdriver is applied. I have the busted knuckles to prove it.

 

[CXPHREAK]

I'm with you there.

When and if I run up against the next one I hope it is a motor on the bench and not in a bike.

I'm pretty sure that with the motor locked and in my holding rig on the bench I should be able to put enough force into pushing the tool in to keep it engaged.


My girlish screams may prove me wrong.