[sanchez]

So I have a slight issue. I don't think my clutch disengages all the way when I pull the lever in.



When it's cold, if I drop it into 1st gear it dies. When It's hot, if I drop it into 1st, it creeps forward. How do I fix this? I tried adjusting the clutch cable at the handlebar end, but that didn't help.



Any advice?

 

[lucky]

try adjusting it at the clutch it self it should look like its in the 9oclock position

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

There's a course adjuster at the other end of the cable, if you don't find enough adjustment range at the lever.



R

 

[sanchez]

try adjusting it at the clutch it self it should look like its in the 9oclock position

I dunno what you mean by that?

There's a course adjuster at the other end of the cable, if you don't find enough adjustment range at the lever.



R

I saw the adjuster down where it enters the case, but do I want to make it looser or tighter? Tighter right? So that when I pull it, there's less slack on the handle thus making the pull of the cable longer?

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Tighter, but not so tight that it slips. The end of the lever should travel about 1/4" before the lever on the clutch housing moves.



R

 

[BikerMike]

when i was doing alot of wrenching... i found quite a few cracked friction plates that caused clutch drag... justa thot

 

[lucky]

ok i was saying the same thing as randall it should look like the arm is in about the 9 oclock position (think the arm is the little hand and the cable is the big hand) i hope that makes more sense now

 

[Blindstitch]

It's all about a couple nuts. But if you slack it off all they way and it doesn't work then the EBC clutch kits have been recommended by a few.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

ok i was saying the same thing as randall it should look like the arm is in about the 9 oclock position (think the arm is the little hand and the cable is the big hand) i hope that makes more sense now

The arm angle will be what it is, depending on the amount of wear on the clutch plates and springs. You can't change the angle with the adjuster without taking all the slack out of the cable and causing slippage.



You can shim the springs, but it's best to replace the springs and/or plates if they're under spec.



R

 

[BikerMike]

Just a side note... after i changed oil and went to 15-40 diesel blend, I had way more clutch drag when cold. It does correct itself as the motor warms up tho... justa thot Good Riding Mike

 

[Johnny Canuck]

I too have found clutch drag using 15 - 40 oil when cold. When warm, no issues. It's - 2 Celcius this morning (about 28 - 29 on the F scale). I've just changed over to 5 - 30 oil and will start my bike around Nood today for a fairly long run this afternoon when it's supposed to get up to 7 Celcius. We'll see if clutch drag continues when I start up.

 

[sanchez]

Thanks for all the tips guys, gunna give it a shot tonight.

 

[Johnny Canuck]

Certainly there was a difference with the "thinner" oil. Less clutch drag on start up...still some, but less. It was very cold for the entire run yesterday afternoon. The temp. guage only registered about 2 needle widths above "Cold". Fan never came on. It was also somewhat easier to "find" neutral at a stop (as opposed to giving the throttle a jerk which is what I usually do to find neutral when at a stop),.

 

[Toehead]

Certainly there was a difference with the "thinner" oil. Less clutch drag on start up...still some, but less. It was very cold for the entire run yesterday afternoon. The temp. guage only registered about 2 needle widths above "Cold". Fan never came on. It was also somewhat easier to "find" neutral at a stop (as opposed to giving the throttle a jerk which is what I usually do to find neutral when at a stop),.

Johnny, sounds like maybe your thermostat is stuck open a bit.

 

[Johnny Canuck]

Toehead....I think you're right.