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Discussion Starter #1
It's the age old "I've replaced the clutch discs with aftermarket and now have problems". The little lever that comes out from the clutch cover doesn't make any difference until it's at at the 11 o'çlock position or more. I know it should be doing something around the 9 o'clock position. Everything is where it should be. Possible the David Silvers kit I purchased months ago contains the wrong discs or am I looking the wrong direction? Can anyone pint me in the right direction?
 

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Most likely the discs are a smaller thickness compared to the Oems. Or the plunger fell out of the cover ,the one that pushes against the bearing.
 

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When I look at a clock 12 is at the top. 11 would be to the left of vertical so I assume that you are using the clockface in a different manner? On my bikes, with 12 at the top the lever is a touch below 3 with the clutch lever released and goes to to about 2 or so when the lever is pulled. That is IIRC, haven't looked at the bikes for a while.
 

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When I look at a clock 12 is at the top. 11 would be to the left of vertical so I assume that you are using the clockface in a different manner? On my bikes, with 12 at the top the lever is a touch below 3 with the clutch lever released and goes to to about 2 or so when the lever is pulled. That is IIRC, haven't looked at the bikes for a while.
Sorry go look. think your bass awkward
 

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When I look at a clock 12 is at the top. 11 would be to the left of vertical so I assume that you are using the clockface in a different manner? On my bikes, with 12 at the top the lever is a touch below 3 with the clutch lever released and goes to to about 2 or so when the lever is pulled. That is IIRC, haven't looked at the bikes for a while.
My gl500 is just like nolimitz is explaining his. 12:00 is at the top. My clutch starts to feel pressure against it at 9:00.
 

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Yup, bass akwards. So something is wrong with fsj's clutch. On mine the little lever is slightly below 9 and clutch is released near 11ish.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yup, bass akwards. So something is wrong with fsj's clutch. On mine the little lever is slightly below 9 and clutch is released near 11ish.
Kinda what I said. Normally the little mushroom starts to push on the bearing at 9 o'clock, same as relclinedrelics.. With everything assembled it doesn't start to push till 11 o'clock.
 

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fsj have you pulled the clutch cover to double check that everything is as it should be?
 

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Assuming you have refitted the clutch correctly and all components are in place:

This problem has been discussed before - the pattern clutch plates are thicker than OEM and have the effect of pushing the clutch pressure plate (and thus the release bearing)back / further away from the release mushroom so it has to travel further to make contact.
This is why you feel resistance on the lever only when it reaches the 11 o clock position.
If the clutch pack is thinner - it has has worn out for example - this resistance is felt earlier (maybe 8 o clock, say) until no adjustment is possible and you have a slipping clutch (beacause the pressure plate and release bearing have moved so far forward with the thinner plates that the release bearing is now resting on the mushroom.

Remove the clutch plates and measure/compare them to OEM spec.
 

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The best description on the relationship between the clutch actuator lever and the condition of the pads (as posted by Don in Oz many years ago on the old Australian CX Register MSN group):

The clutch in a CX500 shows its wear-state by the angle of the actuator arm on the right-hand side of the motor - but it's probably the opposite to what you would expect - the arm is about 20 degrees UP when the clutch "pack" is new, and it gets to about 20 degrees DOWN from horizontal when the plates are nearly worn out. If it gets to about 30 degrees below horizontal, then you will probably find that the pressure plate has "bottomed-out" on the clutch centre, and the plates will spin freely with no pressure on them at all. Usually, by the time your wear has progressed to the 20 degrees down, you have a very bad case of clutch slip.
As the clutch plates wear, you have to screw IN the adjuster on the handlebar lever mount to compensate.
All this assumes that you have the correct thickness gaskets between the front cover and the crankcase, between the clutch cover and the front cover, and that the normal thrust washer/spacer has been used at the rear of the gearbox input shaft.

The other way of telling the state of wear when you are assembling a motor, is to measure the total height of the clutch "pack" - the distance between the pressure plate face and the clutch centre face where the friction discs bear - and it should be 33mm or a little more for a new "pack", and if you find it's 31mm or less, you'll be looking for some new friction plates really soon, if you don't go out and buy some before the motor assembly goes any further.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Assuming you have refitted the clutch correctly and all components are in place:

This problem has been discussed before - the pattern clutch plates are thicker than OEM and have the effect of pushing the clutch pressure plate (and thus the release bearing)back / further away from the release mushroom so it has to travel further to make contact.
This is why you feel resistance on the lever only when it reaches the 11 o clock position.
If the clutch pack is thinner - it has has worn out for example - this resistance is felt earlier (maybe 8 o clock, say) until no adjustment is possible and you have a slipping clutch (beacause the pressure plate and release bearing have moved so far forward with the thinner plates that the release bearing is now resting on the mushroom.

Remove the clutch plates and measure/compare them to OEM spec.
This is what I'm looking for. Everything is where it should be. I've done clutches before with good results. I think the discs are wrong. If I've measured them correctly they look too thick. An example below:

From the front of the engine:
Disc 1 measures at 3.47mm or 0.136" factory calls for 3.1-3.5mm or 0.1220-0.1378
Disc 2 measures at 3.36mm or 0.132" factory calls for 2.3-2.7mm or 0.0905-0.1062"
Disc 3 measures at 3.44mm or 0.1335" factory calls for 2.3-2.7mm or 0.0905-0.1062"
Disc 4,5, and 6 all same as 2 and 3
Disc 7 measures at 2.69mm or 0.106 factory calls for 3.1-3.5mm or 0.1220-0.1378

Seems to me the discs aren't correct. Am I right in thinking?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
anyone?
 

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It would seem, based on what Jah Rider wrote in post #11 that you have found the source of your problem. Your clutch pack will be taller than it should be.
Disc one is within spec, each of 2 through 6 are .3 to .4 mm too thick for a difference of 3 to 3.5 mm. Disc 7 is under by 0.8mm so the entire pack may be 2.7 mm too thick.
This thread may be of interest. Clutch disc problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yup. Figured as much but needed a second set of eyes. I can't return them so I'll have to spring for new ones. I've used EBC before but Wemoto is advertising Gecko brand. Anyone used these with good results?
 

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Someone with more knowledge may say why this is a bad idea, but would it work if you put a spacer between the mushroom and the throw out bearing; spacer about as thick as the pack is too high?
 

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It might be hard to keep it in place.

Don's information that I quoted in post #12 says that the pack (all friction and plain plates together) should total about 33mm. I'd like to know how much thicker the pack is with these discs.

I'm also thinking that if it isn't too much this might be a good tile to replace the damper plate with 2 plain plates (this is common in the early GoldWing world because the damper plates can come apart and destroy the friction plates on either side).
 

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Bobs Idea of getting rid of the dampner plate , but only one plate might help take up the slack .you may try a washer (shim) under the release bearing , or thicker bearing if you can find one.
 
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