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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am MAD! My new clutch cable that I installed EXACTLY the same as the old one keeps touching my right exhaust header pipe which has caused a melted spot on it. How the Hell did that happen? I think the new cable is longer or something.
 

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I did that once, I don't remember the exact cable routing I used but just playing with where I routed it took out enough slack to fix it.  
 

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I had the same issue with my new cable. You're right, it's longer than the original cable. The ebay seller (Cycle Cellar) confirmed it was the right length prior to the sale but it wasn't. I fixed it instead of sending it back.

I saw it touching the exhaust pipe on right turns. First, I covered it with aluminum tape (available at Home Depot). Then, I used a cable tie to tie it to the radiator mount. Now, it's just fine.
 

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Even if it's longer you guys must have it routed wrong to melt it.



The cable goes straight up from the clutch cover on the engine and under the right sided radiator trim.
 

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Even if it's longer you guys must have it routed wrong to melt it.



The cable goes straight up from the clutch cover on the engine and under the right sided radiator trim.


Yep!!!

It can be pretty hard to 'cram' the cable behind the radiator cover, but that's where it goes, then it definitely won't move.
 

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Yep!!!

It can be pretty hard to 'cram' the cable behind the radiator cover, but that's where it goes, then it definitely won't move.




When I do it I do things in reverse. I hook up the cable at the engine and thread it through the radiator trim then up and around and diagonally through the triple tree to the clutch perch.
 

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TIP: Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the stuff. If you do choose to use a lighter or propane torch take it real easy, it doesn't have to shrink completely on the first heating.



Luckily heat shrink tubing is available in a llot of places - Radio Shack, ACE/True Value Hardware, almost any auto parts store, computer electronics or electrical wiring distributors etc. If you want to get fancy you can order it from one of these places in various thicknesses and colors, often in 4' lengths or even by the foot:



http://www.mouser.com

http://www.jameco.com

http://www.goldmine-elec.com

http://www.mcmelectronics.com

http://www.digikey.com



list goes on and on.



MOST of it shrinks by 50% of its original expanded diameter and it's best not to get too close to either end. You want it to shrink, but not have to shrink too much or too little. For a typical 1/4" dia item you'd want to use 0.375" (3/8')
 

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The reason I post Ebay links is that everyone has access to them easily plus sometimes I've spent more in gas looking around locally for something small when I could have just have had it delivered to my door and many times even cheaper




Stuff like Blue Hylomar has got real hard to get locally as has the heat shrink sleeving and also the prices have been bumped up because they know this.



My 10 penn'th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks gentlemen! I feel better now. I had a terrible day due to being informed that my truck motor is blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, I removed the outer radiator cover on the right side and put the cable there then reattached it. That works GREAT! I may buy another cable and use the melted one as a spare. Boy, I have learned a lot here!
 

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Not to "jack the thread*....lol.... but did you get any residual burn material stuck on the header? I had that problem unbeknownst by my coat not long ago, and some diligent fine steel wool and carb cleaner eventually got the melted nylon off.
 

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Not to "jack the thread*....lol.... but did you get any residual burn material stuck on the header? I had that problem unbeknownst by my coat not long ago, and some diligent fine steel wool and carb cleaner eventually got the melted nylon off.
Brass wool would be preferred to steel wool. It is believed by many that the steel wool is minutely left on the bike and these pieces are prone to rust.
 

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A fine Scotchbrite pad can often come in handy but they're far more aggressive than you might think so go with the finest you can find.



Before using any sort of physical force try diffferent solvents, MEK cuts most anything, acetone, toluene and xylene are also good. Kind of depends on what type of plastic you're trying to dissolve.



If none of those will cut it go to a plastics place and get some Weld-On #3 or #4 solvent based glue. It's not only extremely aggressive but it's very handy to weld plastic pieces back together with. It really isn't a glue but a special solvent that is used in the manufacture of many plastics. With some care, a hypodermic needle setup and/or some toothpicks you can mend a lot of things nothing else will even touch.



You can order it off the internet but it's a heck of a lot cheaper to buy locally, most any place that sells Plexiglass or Lexan in bulk will have it.
 
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