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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
General age and wear has made the engine and various parts not as shiny as the once were. Troy keeps telling me that the bike needs an "acid bath"- what they use to clean the rims of the tires on the semis and trailers. It makes me very leery to use something referred to as an "acid bath" ANYWHERE on the bike. Any thoughts on general cleaning for this kind of application?
 

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General age and wear has made the engine and various parts not as shiny as the once were. Troy keeps telling me that the bike needs an "acid bath"- what they use to clean the rims of the tires on the semis and trailers. It makes me very leery to use something referred to as an "acid bath" ANYWHERE on the bike. Any thoughts on general cleaning for this kind of application?
as we dont get much cold and rain here.

mine gets a spray de-greaser followed by the pressure washer,ride it hard til it dries
 

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General age and wear has made the engine and various parts not as shiny as the once were. Troy keeps telling me that the bike needs an "acid bath"- what they use to clean the rims of the tires on the semis and trailers. It makes me very leery to use something referred to as an "acid bath" ANYWHERE on the bike. Any thoughts on general cleaning for this kind of application?
as we dont get much cold and rain here.

mine gets a spray de-greaser followed by the pressure washer,ride it hard til it dries
 

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Just to give you an idea of what some acids do, castrol super clean is a mild acid based cleaner. I sprayed it on my bike years ago because it breaks down dirt and grease very well. The stuff stained the anodizing on my rims and stained all the aluminum parts. I ended up having to sand off the rims and polish them to get the stains out. It turns out that the same stuff melts anodizing. That's how I ended up getting into polishing all the parts for these bikes.



Bottom line is that elbow grease and some polishing will do you better than any short cut acid bath. It's not easy sometimes, but much more rewarding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Considering it's what they use in the industry, and it doesn't stain the rims on his rig/ trailers I think that's why he's suggested it- I guess you spray it on and rinse it off (not pure acid...) Thanks for the feedback, it's been rattling around my head for a bit now- wanting to clean up the look but not wanting to use acid ANYTHING.
 

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I was thinking about that after I posted the reply. It may be worth testing out if it works. Who knows, it may be the next greatest thing in cleaning if we can find out what it is.
 

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Never heard of it, is there a MSD sheet or ingredient list for it somewhere?



If it needs a neutralizer after application, it's nothing I'd try on a motorcycle or engine bay.
 

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Acid reacts with aluminum, so I wouldn't suggest it.



Maybe try a Simple Green or Pinesol soak, followed by a good pressure washing.
 

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We sell an acid at work for cleaning rims, chrome and stainless parts on semis, buses etc. It is notorious for being used incorrectly, resulting in health risks and disfigured metal finishes. If it's allowed to evaporate or dry at all whilst on the metal it will etch it permanently. It can make nicely polished fuel tanks look like scrap and it can really do a number on paint and rubber. And it can really do a number on coated aluminum too.







MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET



PRODUCT NAME: Wheel Brite / Pro-Brite



PRODUCT USE: Cleaning steel surfaces FORMULA NO:121



SECTION 1:HAZARDOUS INGREDIENT INFORMATION.

Chemical identity Conc. CAS No. PIN No.

Sulphuric Acid 2-3 7664-93-9 1831

Hydrofluoric acid 5-10 7664-39-3 1790



SECTION 1V: PHYSICAL DATA.

Physical State : Liquid

Odour and Appearance : pungent and water like

Odour Threshold : none

Specific Gravity : 1.00 approximately

Coefficient of water/ oil distribution : Infinity

Vapour Pressure : not applicable

Boiling Point : 100 C for 1% solution

Freezing Point : 0 c for 1% solution

pH : 2.00+0.50

Vapour Density : Not applicable

Evaporation Rate : Not applicable

Percent volatile by Volume : Not applicable



SECTION V: FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD.

Condition of Flammability : Non flammable

Means of Extinction : Water, foam or carbon dioxide

Explosion Data Sensitivity to Mechanical Impact : Not applicable

Sensitivity to Static Discharge : Not applicable

Flash Point and Method : Not applicable

Upper Flammable Limit % : Not applicable

Lower Flammable Limit% : Not applicable

Auto ignition Temperature : Not applicable

Hazardous Combustion Products : None



SECTION V1: REACTIVITY DATA

Stability : Stable under normal temperature

Incompatible Materials : Other chemicals

Conditions of Reactivity : None known to the manufacturer

Hazardous Decomposition Products : None known to the manufacturer



SECTION V11: TOXICOLOGICAL PROPERTIES.

LD50 Species and Route : Not Available

LC50 Species and Route : Not Available

Route of Entry : Skin contact -Yes

Skin Absorption -Yes

Eye Contact -Yes

Inhalation -Yes

Ingestion -Yes

Effects of Acute Exposure to Product : Not applicable.

Exposure Limits : Not applicable.

Irrintacy to Product : Moderate to eyes.

Synergistic Products : Not known to the manufacturer.





SECTION V111: PREVENTIVE MEASURES.

Personal Protective Equipment : Applicable

Gloves(specify) : Recommended.

Respiratory(Specify) : Required

Eye(Specify) : Necessary.

Footwear(specify) : Necessary.

Other Equipments(Specify) : Consult your supervisor

Engineering Controls(Specify) : Natural ventilation sufficient.

Leak and Spill Procedures : Absorb with sand and oil dry

Waste Disposal : Observe all Local, Provincial

and Federal regulations.

Handling Procedures and Equipments : Avoid using metal equipments

Storage Requirements : Store away from food

Special Shipping Information : Hydrofluoric Acid & Sulphuric Acid Mixture UN1786, Class 1, 8(6.1) (9.2)



SECTION 1X: FIRST AID MEASURES.

Inhalation : Move to fresh air

Ingestion : Do not induce vomitting, give milk and

seek medical advice.

Eye contact : Flush with water and see doctor

Skin Contact : Flush with water and see doctor.



ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Detergents are products made by blending different chemicals possessing different degrees of different hazards. It is difficult to determine the combined effect of these chemicals. Therefore discretion on the part of the Supervisor and operators are kindly requested. This product is highly acidic and reactive and must be used with adequate precaution. This product is made exclusively at the request of the customer and is not a standard product of XXXX Corporation. We are completely aware of the damages to living environment.

Sources Used : Merck's Index,TDG Act,WHMIS etc.



NON WARRANTY:

Prior testing for fitness for use by the purchaser and purchaser's compliance with applicable statues is a strict condition of sale. The information given above are prepared from our knowledge of the product. All recommendations and suggestions are believed reliable but should not be construed as warranties.

XXXXX Corporation disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of the product or the data given above.


Personally, I'm not a fan of it. This product, and others like it, are way too easy to misuse. Generally, if it's strong enough to do what you want then it's going to be hazardous as well.



If you still want to use something like this please follow all safety and usage recommendations to the letter.
 

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The strongest acid I'd use is my urine. It is plentiful so long as you don't have certain diseases. It is safer in that if you get a splash in your eye you won't have to call poison control. And most importantly it is fun! Go piss on it!

Disclaimer: Due be discreet and use proper judgement. I did once get a verbal warning from a police officer during one of my cleaning sessions. Honest. Now that I live in the country I am safe in this practice. Also, I only do it on hard surfaces as soft things have a tendency to not be easily rinsed and will smell.

I am in a bit of a mood today but what I say is true. My .02 on mild acid cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The strongest acid I'd use is my urine. It is plentiful so long as you don't have certain diseases. It is safer in that if you get a splash in your eye you won't have to call poison control. And most importantly it is fun! Go piss on it!

Disclaimer: Due be discreet and use proper judgement. I did once get a verbal warning from a police officer during one of my cleaning sessions. Honest. Now that I live in the country I am safe in this practice. Also, I only do it on hard surfaces as soft things have a tendency to not be easily rinsed and will smell.

I am in a bit of a mood today but what I say is true. My .02 on mild acid cleaning.




Bwahahahahaha! I read this and didn't know if I should cringe or laugh, but laughter won out! Troy has a reputation within his company of being nearly obsessive about keeping his truck clean. He's had remnants of off white carpet in his truck, and it's not actually his- it's a company truck that is assigned to him... so he has it everyday, but where other guys don't care how the company truck looks- Troy considers it his home away from home, a reflection on his company as well as himself..... so I don't think he'd suggest anything that would hurt the bike- but I'll see if he can find a MSDS or something along those lines- It's not like a household cleaner in a spray bottle- they have a big tank of it... IDK... some checking into is def in order!
 

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Knowledge is power. I admire those with OCD/ strong passion about something. I often wish I was more like that. For years i have not had real fire for anything. Enjoy your research Dakotamk.
 

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Pinesol will work for parts you can soak.
Hydroflouric acid is nasty stuff. It is easily absorbed through the skin and will damage the underlying bones, as well as give you a nasty burn.





You can buy an etching acid rim cleaner, (I used eagle f1 etching mag cleaner) at any auto parts store. I used it to degrease my engine when I had it out of the frame (the paint was already awful) It worked well for that task, but I wouldn't use it on the whole bike.
 

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The strongest acid I'd use is my urine. It is plentiful so long as you don't have certain diseases. It is safer in that if you get a splash in your eye you won't have to call poison control. And most importantly it is fun! Go piss on it!

Disclaimer: Due be discreet and use proper judgement. I did once get a verbal warning from a police officer during one of my cleaning sessions. Honest. Now that I live in the country I am safe in this practice. Also, I only do it on hard surfaces as soft things have a tendency to not be easily rinsed and will smell.

I am in a bit of a mood today but what I say is true. My .02 on mild acid cleaning.




Linny,

You would definitely be popular in Australia where there are a considerable number of jelly fish attacks on swimmers and urine neutralizes their stinging. However, I'm not aware of how many swimmers ride motos to the beaches. Hummmmmm, possibly your usefulness would be limited to relieving yourself on people writhering in agony. (thanks for your mood and creative solution) Regards,
 

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Simple Green isn't the best on composites and it used to be on flightlines for the USAF and now it is a banned substance on base because it will cause delamination of composites and with time it will attack aluminum as well. Has to be neutralized with water well to prevent it from continuing to work on aluminum I'm told.



One thing I asked a friend who had a spotless '81 Turbo Volvo wagon how he kept the engine clean. His reply was clean it once and then after dry spray it down heavily with WD-40. The silicone will atract dirt but it also sprays clean with a high pressure hose at the car wash. Makes for easy maintenance after that and oil leaks can be easily seen.



Don't know with our motors if that would be as true or not. I've not tried it.



Most car engine degreasers are Lye which is a strong degreaser you shouldn't have in contact with your body. FWIW.



David
 
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