[ScrapMetal]

I'm about to dig into the custom to deluxe tank switch in 2 weeks. I realize I should wash out the tank very well with water (and soap?) before I start using cutting tools around it (sparks and all that), but I was thinking I should probably use POR-15 or the like to coat the inside as well before modding. Does this sound right, or can I just wash the tank and then maybe use compressed air to dry it out? I've already got some surface rust inside so eventually I'll have to clean/recoat but was hoping for warmer days for that (April/May).



Second tank is just going to be cut open to hopefully make a nice rear cowl. I'm thinking a few good rounds of dish soap and water should do the trick before sawing. Other than dropping a match inside is there another test for combustability?



Thought I'd ask now while I still have my fingers to type with.



Thanks,

Scrap

 

[marshallf3]

Oddly enough, get some Cascade dishwashing detergent powder (preferrably the type that still has phosphourous listed on the label) and mix about a 1/2 cup of it with VERY hot water. Close up the tank, agitate, let it sit for a bit, rinse, repeat. A common hair dryer might help, but nothing beats leaving the tank wide open then letting it dry in the sun if you're in a warm, dry climate which in your location would mean indoors with a sunlamp.



The Cascade that has the phosphorous in it will help impede rust from forming and will in fact clean out some of what's already in there.



Cascade is a very strong detergent that will remove the old gas. It may still smell a bit like gasoline but there won't be anything left to ignite.



BTW: If its just minor surface rust I don't think I'd bother with a tank coating, some are more trouble than they're worth as they end up peeling off.

 

[LRCXed]

Believe it or not, rinsing the tank out with Acetone will remove ALL the vapors and gas residue. Drain it out and use an air blower to dry out the fast evaporating acetone. I have done several tanks and it has never failed me. I can start cutting withing 15 minutes after the rinse and dry. Not to mention you won't have to worry about any rust forming in there from rinsing with water.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Marshall - How would I know if the smell is flamable or not? Any "test" that might not blow me up?



LR - So I would pretty much dump out the gas as well as possible, then add acetone, give it a swirl and dump that? No water, ever?

 

[LRCXed]

You got it. No water needed. I use about 3 cups of acetone when I rinse out a tank. Just make sure it washes off all the inner areas. Then just drain it and dry it out.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Very cool. I'll give that a shot in two weeks.

 

[marshallf3]

Marshall - How would I know if the smell is flamable or not? Any "test" that might not blow me up?

All you'll smell is the remnants of old gas and it's a heck of a lot cheaper than buying all that acetone which, in fact, is just as flammable as gasoline if you don't get it fully evaporated out of the rust that a small amount will try to settle in.



If you go with either method don't close the tank up afterwards and set it aside, let it breathe and you'll have no worries. I Cascaded a fairly rusty one of mine I was going to use a couple of times and all it smelled like was air.



Rust inside a tank is a tricky subject. I had one tank I didn't think was that bad after a close inspection of what I could see with a flashlight and mirror, cleaned it out then ran some dilute muriatic acid in there for a while. It was great seeing the visible surface rust disappear but what I didn't know was there was a really bad rust spot in the very upper rear so when I went to strip it it just caved in there. Good thing though, I'd have hated to use that tank only to have it fail not long afterwards. Not even the coatings they sell could have possibly taken care of that. OldOkie was there when we found it so he just brought me the original tank that was on my bike which is amazingly good shape, I'm not going to have to clean it or coat it or anything else, it's just being stripped down to bare metal then etch primed + all the rest you have to go through to do a good 2K job.