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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so a couple of weeks ago I rejeted my carbs to 95 /125. I was having some issues with idling so I justed the air fuel mixture and also adjusted the large plastic knob on the carb which I think controls throttle speed. I never could seem to get the bike to run smooth. afterwards after I let the bike cool for a couple of minutes, I tried to start it back up again and I heard a loud clang... and then the fight wouldn't start. I also smelled something that seems like it might be burning plastic. after a little while I tried starting the bike up and if fired right up. I repeated this several times with the same results.. sometimes I would hear a loud clanb and the bike wouldn't start, other times it starts right up. is this something serious? any ideas on what this could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
actually 79 cx 500. it has a lot of modifications. also maybe a piece of junk. it has air pods, and straight pipes, no hbox. Also, no gauges. However, i'm not smoking out tail pipes, and oil is clean with no coolant leaking in. I would post pics, but can't seem to figure out hore to do that here.
 

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Don't know about the burning plastic smell. My guess would be insulation on the wiring cooking, - but that is only a guess.



The clang sounds like the starter clutch which is why I was thinking 650.



This one's a little left field. 500s don't usually have starter clutch problems but if the starter clutch is actually jamming this could possibly cause the wiring to heat up.



With luck someone will have had the same problem as you are experiencing and be able to point you in the right direction.
 

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It could be a poorly sterter/solenoid/connections so that when it engages the clutch

it sometimes doesnt have the power to crank the motor

so,

Clank !

No movement in starter or motor

dead short in starter circuit

heat, smell and smoke if you keep the button pressed



Time to get the manual, meter and spanners out and

try to fix it before it gets fretful and expensive



If it is the starter roller gear is on the way out its an engine out job

but the 500s are easier on them than the aforementioned 650s

thems buggers for eating starter gear.
 

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I had the same problem on my truck once. The starter was hitting the flywheel. I had to shim the starter. Not suggesting you do that, but double check that your starter and bracket are not loose. It may feel solid by hand, but under load watch it to see if it moves. Bracket bolts bent? Just brainstorming here


The smell troubles me. Certainly electrical, and of course an electrical smell is never good. Your starter was trying to turn but couldn't. I predict that you will be removing the engine to see what exactly the problem is.

Otherwise it runs well? How do your plugs look?



Is the CLANK obviously a metal on metal sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to all of you.

Yes the clank sounds like it's metal on metal, and causes the bike to lurch a bit. I think the starter diagnosis might be correct because sometimes it doesn't have power to crank motor, other times it does.



I'm guessing from all your comments that the first things to check would be:

check the starter to see if it's loose,

then check connections to make sure that they're tight?



Otherwise the engine runs well...though it was a little sluggish at higher speeds (the reason I rejetted in the first place, cause I thought I was probably running lean with the pods)



At what point would I be removing the engine and what should I specifically be looking for...I've never removed an engine before--is something like this worth it?



thanks for all the advice!

-b
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also,

can any of you point me to a good manual for instructions on a good sequence for removing the motor?

I found a good manual for an engine rebuild, but it starts with the engine already off.

thanks,

b
 

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You most likely will at some point have to split the engine and take a look at the Starter Flywheel components but for now do some easy things to take the strain off the starting system.



Remove and clean the Starter.It's dead easy,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208



Especially if you have got a vice and a pair of Vise grips.





Get a proper bike battery charger if you haven't already,



Harbor freight have a super cheap one on sale,



http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ry/automatic-battery-float-charger-42292.html



Clean any and all connections,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Electrics.htm



The better your connections the more current can flow and be used.Corroded connections 99% of the time increase electrical resistance.



Manual here,



http://coodie.com/cx/
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Appreciate it ya'll...i'll try to get to this shortly and let ya'll know what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Been away for a few weeks, but finally got a chance to work on the 79 CX500. I took the starter off to clean/inspect it. Noticed 2 things. First though the commuter looked clean, the longer bars that were on the long, wider part of the starter shaft all had rust on them. I also noticed that when I took the caps off the starter ends that there was a lot black dirt-like material (I guess you'd just call it grime). The locking bolts had lots of corrosion as well.

I've sprayed carb cleaner of most of these rusty parts, and am going to take a toothbrush to them this evening.



Should I be really worried about the rust and corrosion?



Also inside one of the caps I noticed (once I cleaned a layer of grime off) that there seems to be a sticker-like thing glued to the side. It's starting to come off (probably because of the carb cleaner and scrubbing). Is this just a sticker, or is this some kind of unknown insulation that I should do my best to leave on?



Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks,

blivy,

-------FYI, The brushes look okay (one of them is slightly worn on the end), and I think the commuter looks good too (I'm getting connectivity).
 

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Some of the starter motors have an insulated +ve brush lead. Some do not.

The ones without have a piece of insulation stuck to the inside of the end cap - this is the `sticker` you mention. It needs to be there...

Without it there is a risk that the +ve brush lead will short to earth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some of the starter motors have an insulated +ve brush lead. Some do not.

The ones without have a piece of insulation stuck to the inside of the end cap - this is the `sticker` you mention. It needs to be there...

Without it there is a risk that the +ve brush lead will short to earth.


Thanks for the info.... what's the "+ve" mean? This 'sticker' is only about 1.5" long, and is 5/8" tall, and very thin. It's also come a bit loose. What should I use to try and stick it back? Would simple super glue work?



Thanks,

-b
 

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Thanks for the info.... what's the "+ve" mean? This 'sticker' is only about 1.5" long, and is 5/8" tall, and very thin. It's also come a bit loose. What should I use to try and stick it back? Would simple super glue work?



Thanks,

-b
"+ve........means positive current,live....electricity is like water,flows one way[normally]and the returns

-ve.........means negitive current,its return journy,after its done its job,light the indicator bulb for example

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the help everybody. After lots of scrubbing, wiping, and carb and switch cleaner, I've got the starter pretty nice and clean and put back together again and it spins freely and smoothly.

2 more questions though:

1) the two washers (the fibre one and the steel one that are sunken into the end shaft) I forgot which went in first against the commuter. From the wear on both, it looked like the steel washer wen in first and then the fibre washer. Is this correct, or should I reverse them?



2) when I had the starter apart and checked for continuity (per manual recommendations) everything checked out. However, once I put the starter back together again I noticed that I had continuity between the terminal (where the cable connects) and the two long locking bolts as well as the end caps. Is this normal?



thanks,

blivy
 

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Will edit this in a minute but I'm on it. Gotta look through a ton of pictures. Just went through this. The continuity is correct once put together. BRB.



The fiber washer touches the case. Once together put the positive from a 2 amp battery charger on the bolt and the neg on any part of the case. The starter will spin slowly if it's all good.
 

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I'm sorry, but I'm pretty sure your problem has nothing to do with the starter itself. Fairly sure you will have to drop the motor and inspect the starter clutch behind the flywheel. Almost positive on that.
 

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1) the two washers (the fibre one and the steel one that are sunken into the end shaft) I forgot which went in first against the commuter. From the wear on both, it looked like the steel washer wen in first and then the fibre washer. Is this correct, or should I reverse them?



blivy


Put the fibre washer on 1st and then the steel one
 
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